Monday, September 02, 2019

Scottish Adventure 6. Over the Sea to Skye

We took the 11am ferry from Mallaig
a 45 minute crossing
to Skye, where it was raining, heavily, with the streams rushing downhill
in full spate
Lovely colours in the heather
On the way to Talisker, a beautiful old stone bridge over the River Drynoch
The mountainsides are dotted with lovely old homes
Talisker, until recently the only distillery on Skye
and they still claim that they are; the two newcomers are ignored by the old firm which is owned by Diageo
A tasting glass for the very thirsty, holds about 2 litres. We tasted and the driver's doggie bottle was used again
Skye has beautiful land and seascapes round every corner
One can understand why Bonnie Prince Charlie wanted to go there, political considerations notwithstanding
A huge flock of gulls
suddenly took off across the bay
A wood near the Fairy Pools; 
Moss on the trees shows how wet the climate is on the islands
Fallen trees are a common sight
Enchanted forests
and sheep are everywhere - think of Harris Tweed
The Fairy Pools are a popular attraction, but it meant a long walk. which would have compromised our ability
to get back to the ferry on time. and wading knee deep through a river, so we took a look  passed through
A view across Kinloch Bay, looking across to the mainland
There are beautiful views everywhere
across the island
and back to the mainland
A new addition to Skye's distilleries. Torabhaig's stills were commissioned in 2016
We arrived just too late for a visit to the distillery, but met the manager who told us that the product is heavily peated
Black sheep with white tails which look very funny when they wag them
We found the old Inn at Àird a' Bhàsair
where we stopped for a snack and a pint
of Caledonia Best Bitter
The menu
and the restaurant bar
We chose a delicious chicken liver paté
and a shrimp cocktail
before catching the return ferry at Armadale
rush hour traffic
A rainbow over the mainland
and sunset through the clouds
Our cottage is in the lowest row
The sand-coloured left half of the two-toned semi
The Fisherman and Child sculpture by Mark Rogers at the entrance to Mallaig harbour
and so, we were back in Mallaig
This continues our short précis of what we’ve done
More detailed stories will follow in regular issues of MENU after our return to South Africa
Posted by MENU at 5:08 pm 0 comments

Sunday, August 25, 2019

Scottish adventure 4. More Speyside whiskies

The Glen Grant distillery and its gardens are just behind our hotel in Rothes
so we made it our first stop of the day
introduced ourselves at the tasting room
and were shown to a table on the terrace
next to the distillery
by Lynne Strathdee
who brought us the Glen Grant 10 and 16 year old malts to taste. The 16 year old is only available at the factory. £65 per bottle. Note the "doggie bottle" of 16 year old for the driver! The whiskys are gentle and complex, we found notes of honey and butter, toffee and spice and they are so seductive. Age definitely helps a single malt to show its true character.  Lynne tastes them neat and then adds just a drop of water. 
After the tasting, we walked
along the burn
and through the forest
to the gardens
The biggest Gunnera manicata or giant rhubarb we've ever seen
a hint of autumn
This little hut is a shelter with a special attribute
not just the antler candelabra
but a whisky safe. Great if you know someone with a key
We stopped for a bite at the coffee shop
Two sandwiches, a coffee and a raspberry drink - £10.80. Best not to convert to Rand! The Fentimans Sparkling Raspberry is superb, just like fresh raspberries and low in sugar. We wish we could get these in SA. 
Then on to the new, very modern Macallan distillery in Craigellachie.  From a distance it looks like three barrows on the hill then as you get closer you spot the glint of windows below.  It is an amazing building, we were in awe at the beautiful architecture, the views from it and the way it embraces the surrounding country.  However some of the locals do not like it at all, one even called it Tellytubby land. And, no, she has not visited it. Yet                                        
The only people you see are visitors and guides. The distillery is completely automated
Huge displays of Macallan whiskies through the ages
in glass cases
and some very special bottles, like this 6 litre Macallan “M” Lalique decanter. Seventeen craftsmen spent over 50 hours to create just one bottle of this whisky and only two out of a stock of four were ever made available to the public, which probably has something to do with the Macallan “M” being the most expensive whisky ever sold at auction, netting £477,405 at Sotheby's Hong Kong in 2014. Christened Constantine, the giant decanter, sold to an anonymous bidder, is the only one of the four to feature the engraved autographs of the three principal creators: Lalique’s Silvio Denz, Fabien Baron and Bob Dalgarno
Elegant modern architecture
Giant copper potstills surrounded by stainless steel mash tuns
Mark Rooney, the F&B manager guided us through a tasting
(driver John was only allowed to sniff)
We have to confess that The McCallum is one of Lynnes favourite whiskys. The tasting she did was 
"THE SIX PILLARS EXPERIENCE
Join one of our friendly and knowledgeable guides to learn about the foundation stones that underpin the character of The Macallan. After discovering how our unparalleled investment in the finest casks contributes to the natural colours, aromas and flavours that set The Macallan apart, you will experience a nosing and tasting of some carefully selected Macallan whiskies and our wonderfully rich new make spirit.

 Cost: £15.00 per person"

 It was an exploration of how the whisky reacted to being matured in different wood casks. An 18 year old in a sherry oak cast from Jerez in Spain that once held Oloroso sherry, A 12 year old double matured in an American oak cask and in a European oak cask and another Triple matured in a classic Euopean and American sherry oak cask and in an ex- Bourbon Amercan oak cask. They were very different and all had character and depth.  The 
Then out again to the Scottish highlands
to meet a large, shaggy Scot

This is a short précis of what we’ve done. More detailed stories will follow in regular issues of MENU
Posted by MENU at 5:40 pm 0 comments

Scottish Adventure 2. Edinburgh to Speyside

At Waverley station in Edinburgh, we picked up the car we have hired and will drive until just before we come home. The car is a Vauxhall Crossland X (the maker’s plate inside says Opel – badge engineering - a spacious and comfortable mini MPV. Good to drive if a little underpowered, but it does have satnav
We drove to Perth, where we did some shopping – Lynne loves Lidl  supermarkets
and then took the slow, scenic route through the Cairngorms
passing Braemar Castle, the gatehouse for Balmoral
and enjoying the scenery
and stopping occasionally to take photographs
of interesting places, 
rivers
and this ancient stone bridge which is not suited to heavy vehicles and only wide enough for one
and arrived in the evening at our home for the next four days, the East Bank Hotel
at Rothes in Speyside
very comfortable, if unsophisticated, in an old country style
Our room is on the first floor of the stone building, the two windows nearest the white building
Breakfasts at the hotel
are very filling, cereals, toast, good coffee, a selection of teas and juice
Fried or scrambled egg, haggis, blood pudding, bacon and baked beans
These photos were taken on the second day when we asked for smaller quantities,
no baked beans, no blood pudding for Lynne
and no mushrooms for John
Posted by MENU at 5:21 pm 0 comments
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