Monday, September 30, 2019

MENU's UK Adventure 2. Days and nights in Edinburgh

A day in beautiful Edinburgh with soft weather (rain) on and off all day

It started to rain, quite hard, while we were shopping in Prince's Street, so we bought ponchos,
expecting to need them at the Tattoo that evening but, as soon as we opened one the rain stopped, never to return
- it’s called Sod’s Law

The Walter Scott monument with David Livingstone guarding it. Maybe he should give it a wash

Sir Walter Scott wearing an unaccustomed hat

The Ross Fountain below Edinburgh Castle
Lynne, whose family is part of the Ross clan, was keen to see this, as it has recently been restored

A rain-washed Peace rose in the gardens

Another view of Edinburgh Castle

The graveyards at the end of the park

Reminds one slightly of Harry Potter and Hogwarts

This is the road we took to walk up to the castle and into town
If you are an Ian Rankin fan, one of the murders Rebus investigated took place near here in the NCP car park...

No climbing that sheer rock face in a hurry

Festival time, so there were many buskers

and all sorts of strange acts in the streets as part of the Fringe. You have to avoid getting tied up with them 

If you want to buy tickets to any of the Festival shows, this is where you come

During the one month festival, Edinburgh turns into a major tourist city

Lots of interesting buildings, lots of turrets

and great looking pubs

Down the bottom of this hill (and Edinburgh is built on several) is the office of the Tattoo
where you change your prepaid online voucher for real tickets. It is very near the railway station

"It's that way and NO WAY am I climbing back up these stairs...." (Before FitBit)

Greyfriars Kirk

Lynne's Great Grandfather was a minister in both Glasgow and Edinburgh

Lovely stained glass, some from the preRaphaelite movement

The tombs and catacombs

Scottish thistles are everywhere

and fat bees gathering pollen and nectar

Greyfriars Bobby, a West Highland terrier who accompanied his master's body to its grave in Greyfriars Churchyard in 1858

He guarded the grave until he died in 1872. Read the full, touching story here

There is a similar story about the Faithful Hound at Mulderbosch in Stellenbosch

His statue is in a nearby street and people think it’s good luck to touch his nose

A child touches Bobby's statue's nose for good luck

Queen Victoria Street, reputed to be the street on which J.K. Rowling based Digon Alley. There is a Harry Potter magic shop here

It twists and turns and has a few interesting shops

We were taken with The Whisky Shop which sells a huge range of whiskies, not only Scotch, and we even saw some bottles of Bain's from Wellington. They sell small bottles, decanted from these casks. Don't ask the price, good single malts are less expensive at home. A 30 year old Macallan in the shop was £3950 per bottle, but that is an extreme example. It costs less at the distillery, but that is part of a later story
Sadly, we were not offered a taste of anything

The Little Magician shop; a mecca for Harry Potter devotees

You could buy a wand, had you quite a lot of money

We were recommended this pub in the Grass Market, The Last Drop, and assumed that the name meant that you don't leave anything in your glass

and enjoyed a pint of this for John and a half of Tennent's Lager for Lynne

and then saw the real, macabre, meaning of the name

It was the site of the Gallows, where heretics, thieves and murderers spent their last moments
and had their last meal before they experienced The Last Drop

It is one of the pubs in the Grass Market, an elongated, historic square below the Castle

That evening we met up with Fiona and Clare, two of Lynne’s old friends from London days, at Zizzi's, an Italian restaurant, and lots of catching up was done over a bottle of Sicilian white wine

with large Mozzarella, artichoke, prosciutto, rocket, pesto and olive pizzas

Lynne could not resist the crayfish risotto
Crayfish are a fresh water pest in the UK and rather small, but have good flavour
It was made with orzo, a pasta shaped like rice

It was a rather ordinary Sicilian chardonnay at £20, a bit flat

We had to finish up by 8.30 as they close at 9. North of the border, people seem to retire quite early

Lots of good chat

and, as we walked home, we could hear that night's Tattoo ending

And see the fireworks from outside our AirBnB

We were very sad to leave the next morning; we should have stayed longer in this beautiful city
And we won’t need an excuse to return

MENU's UK Adventure 1. From Cape Town via Dubai to Edinburgh

We love travel but, sadly, flying is not the best part. Financial constraints mean looking for the cheapest flight, so we went the long way round with Emirates via Dubai to Gatwick for the start of this year's adventure in England and Scotland. Because John needs a visa, which takes time, it precludes getting any cheap flights early on in the year, which is a major setback. Lynne was born in London, but we had not been back since 2004. And family there are, like us, getting older, so it was now or never

We always get to the airport very early (we are told that this might give us a chance of an upgrade) we live in eternal hope that one day... and we don't like rushing. So we left home mid-morning, piling our Uber driver's car high with our luggage - we needed enough for 5 weeks and we had to pack winter clothes as well as a few for warmer weather. We were coming out of winter on the 18th of August but, when Lynne Googled the weather in Scotland, we just packed the same clothes we had been wearing at home We had time for lunch once we had checked through and the café provided a huge portion of good crisp chips with John's toasted ham, cheese and tomato sandwich

and Lynne's smoked salmon roll. No, she didn't eat the cucumber

A sign of the times - the price of two sandwiches and a beer

The Boeing 777, loading

It was a long flight to Dubai (9½ hours) and we were met with a huge blast of hot Gulf air at nearly midnight
and a shuttle from the plane to the terminal

It is a huge shopping mecca, where the shopping was still very active at 11.30 pm SA time, which is 1 am Dubai time
We just wanted to find some seats for the 2½ hour wait

Then, the inevitable wait in polyglot Dubai for our connection to Gatwick

Dubai airport is always full of travellers from every part of the world
and there are never enough seats to go round, even at the ungodliest hour of the night

Arriving at Gatwick at 07h05 after a very comfortable flight from Dubai in the huge A380 Airbus
We had one of the best flights ever, because we paid extra to sit upstairs
and had two very comfortable seats to ourselves with a window
and we both managed to sleep for several hours, unheard of usually.. 
No noise of jet engines up there at all and very little movement of staff and other passengers. Heaven

The stairs back down in the morning

Next was the great trek from Gatwick to Edinburgh via the local ThamesLink train and the express from Kings Cross

Wow, have they modernised the trains. This is the ThamesLink to Kings Cross, which took about 25 minutes
Yes, that is our luggage on the right. We take a picnic cool bag with us, which holds Lynne's laptop and coat
and a cushion for her bad back, but when we travel in the car, it becomes our food bag

A brief glimpse of the Shard as we came into London

and a skyline that has changed so much since we were last here 

We grabbed some sandwiches for the journey from an M&S shop
and then waited at the notification board to see at which platform our train would arrive

We had bought 3 day Britrail passes for the same price as the normal fare from King Cross to Edinburgh. £79. One tiny snag, if you do this, book your train seats early. We tried, oh how Lynne tried, but could not book any. The best advice was from a very helpful gentleman in, of all places, Canada, who said "get yourself to the right platform and wait for car H, which is the only carriage with non-reserved seats". We dashed, we made it, we boarded and we found seats together. But not all were so lucky; one hapless woman was standing in tears as the train pulled out, she had not managed to get on. They don't allow standing passengers on the fast trains. An unfair comparison with SAR: the average speed of this train is ±120 Km/h

Lynne remembers these English skies that have inspired so many artists
Cottonwool clouds, the corn was golden and the countryside so green and lush

Small villages and sheep in the fields make for a very English scene

Another Sylvan landscape near Darlington, site of the first ever railway

and then the Tweed estuary at Berwick, marking the approach to the Scottish border

The Royal Border Bridge spans the River Tweed between Berwick-upon-Tweed and Tweedmouth in Northumberland, England. It is a Grade I listed railway viaduct built between 1847 and 1850, when it was opened by Queen Victoria. It was designed by Robert Stephenson for the York, Newcastle and Berwick Railway and remains in regular use as part of the East Coast Main Line. Despite its name, the bridge does not span the border between England and Scotland, which is approximately 3 miles (5 km) further north. Note the photovoltaic panels on the roofs. Britain gets a significant proportion of its electricity from wind and solar

And, exhausted almost to extinction, we finally arrived at our Edinburgh AirBnB by taxi
And it was so well situated, very central and just below the ramparts of the Castle 

In one of the classic stone buildings of Edinburgh. A little tatty on the outside

....... but so chic and comfortable inside

A great kitchen, with all the utensils, crockery, glasses, pots and appliances we could ever need

Our bedroom, into which we collapsed after a brief supper, which we had brought with us, bought at M&S at King's Cross
09h30 on the 18th to 19h00 on the 19th meant that we had been travelling for over 33 hours

And, to our delight, a small space outside where we could sit on a warm, dry evening
 with a glass of SA Chenin or Chardonnay
Well, one evening anyway. Scotland has very soft weather (it's a euphemism they use for wet)
Lovely to be in Scotland, where some of our ancestors were born

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