Friday, November 29, 2019

MENU's UK Adventure 17. A South African owned vineyard in Sussex. The Jordans at Mousehall

When Gary and Kathy Jordan, owners of Jordan wine estate in Stellenbosch, heard that we would be in England in September, they invited us to visit them on their farm, Mousehall in East Sussex. They told us that it is a very pretty and historic area and if we wanted to stop and see a classic country town, we should stop in Mayfield, which is just a few miles from them. We happened to arrive there at lunch time and it was indeed worth exploring

Elizabethan half timbered buildings line the High street, including this 14th Century Middlehouse Inn,
which Gary recommended as their "local"

We went in and ordered a simple lunch and some local beer

We were happy to see that they stock a South African Chenin Blanc and a Shiraz, both of which you can order by the glass

After the north was so chilly and damp, it was really lovely to sit out in the garden in the sun
Yes, that is fake grass; so much easier for the children to play on and for animals, we were told

You enter through the side of the inn, down the old coachway

Then it was off through beautiful wooded country

to arrive at Mousehall, down its small country lane. This beautiful old house is very historic, going back almost to the Norman conquest in the 11th Century. Gary told us that they had to search huge areas to find land suitable for vineyards and, eventually, he sent up a drone, the area has so much woodland. This was how they found Mousehall

Gary was busy mowing the high grass, which grows so quickly in summer, and Kathy was indoors working on the house. They currently live there with their daughter Christy and are doing all the house restoration and vineyard, garden and field work without any help. It is a listed property, so the rules and regulations are many and complicated, but they have at last been granted all the permissions they need
Our bedroom was timber framed and very spacious with its own en suite. When you visit a house as old as this, you imagine that it is going to have low ceilings and be very cramped, but it is not and has been very well kept and restored. There are some lovely ancient marks on the oak wood, and some pieces may well have been ship's timbers before they were used in the house, as is often the case

Some nice, slightly more modern, touches in the house, reminders of a time when people still had servants

There are mullioned windows, high chimneys and pantiled roofs

and several useful outbuildings

Their daughter Christy had a huge and very taxing job, planting 500 saffron crocus bulbs
We hear that it was a success; they have all flowered and have given their first crop of Saffron, all picked by hand
They plan to build a distillery and the saffron may be a component there

A farmer's hands. Gary took us for a walk to their Chardonnay vineyard, which was planted this year

They have a five-wire trellis and the healthy new vines are already shooting up towards the top wires

The vines have to be planted in plastic sleeves to prevent predators like rabbits nibbling them
And they do have a rabbit warren on their front lawn

They even have an Oast house or hop kiln on the property - where hops were fermented and dried

They intend to convert it, with permission, into a separate guest suite

The dogs and their cat have been imported from South Africa.  Lots of character!

The fire pit was making good coals as we went to sit outside in the early evening before supper

First, some glasses of chilled local Blanc de Blanc 2013 from Gusbourne Estate in Appledore, Kent

An impressive example of how good sparkling wines from the South of England can be;
definitely what Gary and Kathy are aiming for 
Crisp and clean with some lees notes; tasted blind, we might have thought it was from across the Channel, it was that good. From €34.84, ZAR640, £36.69

A tired Christy joined us; it was very pleasant sitting out drinking good wine and chatting over some fresh bread, paté and a dip

Getting a bit chilly and it’s time to go inside for supper. It’s autumn. The days are still quite long but the nights are getting colder

An inglenook fireplace in the beam ceilinged dining room which, with its long table, is a great place to entertain

Kathy had made us a wonderful supper of tender and flavourful slow-roasted and falling apart Greek style lamb
with Tzatziki, a beetroot salad topped with feta cheese, gem squash, and other accompanying dishes and salads

Gary opened a special bottle of Jordan Sophia, which was a very, very good pairing with the lamb - a superb wine 

We managed to get through two bottles; it was so good 

We had brought some desserts and pastries with us and we had them with the Jordan dessert wine, Mellifera,
a Noble Late Harvest made from their Riesling. Full of honey as the name suggests,
with good fruit acidity balancing the high sugar content, and such a good wine with very sweet desserts

Next morning, John was up very early and took some photographs of Mousehall and its land, as the early light is so beautiful

The Oast House in the rising sun

and Mousehall catching the early morning rays

The cowl on the Oast house keeps the weather out of the Oast House. It always has its back into the wind
with the finger, which carries a mouse motif, pointing in the direction toward which the wind is blowing

The front garden has quite a slope

They have planted hops, usually an important ingredient in beer, but these may end up in gin

They have a small flock of black headed Dorper sheep (a cross between Dorset and Persian) in one of their pastures, brought from South Africa. Importing livestock from SA to the UK means they have to be quarantined en route, either in Germany or in Australia. These are well-travelled sheep

Healthy Chardonnay leaves

The vineyard

Foxgloves in the hedgerows

Autumn showing on the Rowan tree with red berries and pink leaves

One of the lovely, friendly family dogs

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Thursday, November 28, 2019

Tasting at Vrede en Lust wine estate, Simondium

While we were staying at Angala Boutique Hotel, we were given a voucher for a free tasting for two at their neighbouring wine farm, Vrede and Lust (which you drive through to reach Angala). We have been meaning to re-visit the estate and taste their wines for a long time and have received invitations from co-owners Etienne and Dana Buys. So this seemed like a great thing to do on Sunday morning after breakfast, before we drove home


Vrede and Lust was one of the first wine farms to invest in solar electricity generation
It is part of their commitment to being environmentally conscious and active
They have installed huge swathes of solar panels here on the main building and also in the vineyards
We went to the tasting room, which has a terrace, so we decided to sit outside to taste
The view of the Simonsberg mountains and the valley is quite magnificent
They also have the Lust Bistro & Bakery in this separate building at the entrance
On a farm which uses solar generated electricity, a totally green recharge for drivers of electric BMWs
The vines are looking really healthy
Good growth and small green berries on the Shiraz. Veraison will take place in December
Elzanné was our very helpful and well informed wine ambassador
We had a very thorough tasting of the wines; some of the tastings were comparative - two Chenins and two Shirazes. We enjoyed many of them, and loved several, so it was quite an expensive exercise. We came home with three cases: the Barrique 2017, a classic barrel aged blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, the 2019 Malbec, the 2017 Côte de Savoye, a Rhône style blend of Syrah, Grenache and Viognier, and a box of three - one bottle each of the Artisanal 2016 Cabernet Franc, the 2018 Casey's Ridge Syrah, grown on their farm Casey's Ridge in the southwestern part of Elgin, and one bottle of their top wine, the 2015 Boet Erasmus, another oh, so elegant classic; a new world Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Boet Erasmus was co-owners Dana & Etienne Buys’ maternal grandfather


The Barrique is our Wine of the Week this week. A superb food wine
The Boet Erasmus has incense wood and posies of violets on the nose, so pretty. Then ripe cassis berries shine through
Pure cassis fruit-driven at first, then the other varietals show their characteristics
What a lovely wine, with character and depth; so easy to drink and enjoy, a classic expression of the blend
You can take the Franschhoek Tram to the farm and we really recommend that you indulge in a tasting of their wines,
which are not listed in the Platter guide
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Diners Club Winemaker and Young Winemaker of the Year presentation at La Residence, Franschhoek

The 2019 Diners Club Winemaker of the Year (and the Young Winemaker of the year) Awards dinner was held last Saturday night at La Residence in Franschhoek. The event began at 6 pm. It is always a Black Tie event. As no accommodation or transport was provided for media this year, we were lucky enough to be able to arrange to stay over near Franschhoek at Angala Boutique Hotel. Driving home from a late event involving wine is something we do not do


and, on arrival, we were welcomed with a glass of Colmant Rosé MCC or Colmant Brut MCC
Jill and Walter Finlayson (1981 winner, the first year of the competition) with their daughter and son in law,
Carolyn and Jean Claude Martin. Jean Claude was one of the 5 finalists for Winemaker of the Year
with his excellent Pinot Noir, 2018 Creation Estate Pinot Noir
Bloggers Leanne Beatty and Roxanne La Vita
Ubers had been arranged to get them to and from the event
A view of La Residence from the end of the garden
There were three canapés, mozzarella cheese served with compressed and coloured cucumber,
a chicken roulade and small toasts with mushroom paté and tomato 
Peter de Wet of De Wetshof was a Winemaker of the Year finalist with his Nature in Concert Pinot Noir, one we admire a lot;
here with Elizabeth and Wade Roger-Lund
Wade, who is a winemaker at Jordan wine estate, was the Young Winemaker of the Year in 2017
Bernie Hellberg, editor of Signature magazine, with Mariette and Richard Kershaw
Richard was one of the finalists for the Winemaker of the Year with his two superb Pinot Noirs
Long tables on each side of the room seated about 80 people
The room's lighting changes colour from red to pink to orange; it makes photography rather challenging 
The table setting
Jean-Pierre Rossouw, Publisher of the Platter Wine Guide was the MC for the evening
The award is presented to the winemaker who produces a wine that the judges consider to be the best in a specified class
The categories for 2019 were Pinot Noir for Winemaker of the Year,
and White Wines of any varietal or blend for Young Winemaker of the Year
As in previous years, winemakers can be shortlisted for more than one submission
This year’s judges were Nigel Greening (the International judge), Carrie Adams (Head judge),
Debi Van Flymen CWM, Gregory Mutambe, Michael Crossley and Nomonde Kubheka
Head of the Card division of Diners Club, Ethel Nyembe
Eshvaran Naidoo, MD of Diners Club South Africa, said that cultivating wine makers in this competition means that they have a sustainable future in the winelands. He admitted that he is a novice in wine, having converted from Tequila to wine, and he is up to the challenge of being converted. Of course, this is not the only side of the wine industry that they support, he said. They also sponsor the annual Wine List Awards to restaurants and the annual Platter Wine Guide. Tonight is about the winemakers’ skill and genius. To quote a Chinese proverb: "Honour the teachers who go before, of the present and those of the future to come"
The competitors for Young Winemaker of the year are:
Last year's winner, Rudger van Wyk of Stark-Condé Wines – with his 2018 Field Blend
Tim Whitfield of Tokara – with his 2019 Sauvignon Blanc
Thys Smit of Grande Provence – with his 2018 Grande Provence Chardonnay and 2018 Grande Provence Chenin Blanc
James Ochse of Stellenbosch Hills – with his 2017 Kastanjeberg
Herman Du Preez of Stellenrust – with his 2018 The Apprentice White Cinsault

Rudger van Wyk, ready to hand over the trophy to the new Young Winemaker of the Year who is...
Herman du Preez (Stellenrust Wines)
A delighted Herman made a very concise and accomplished acceptance speech. He has been with Stellenrust since 2014 and wanted to do something different with their Cinsault, which excites him. The winning wine is called The Apprentice, which is what he was when he joined Stellenrust. It is a red grape varietal. However, he has produced a white wine from it. The colour is removed by various processes, like passing the juice through charcoal. It was rather cheeky to submit this wine in a White Wine competition and it was a little controversial. However, the judges did deem it the best white wine on show. His prize is R25 000 cash and a return air ticket to a wine producing region - T's & C's of the presenting sponsor apply
The wines served with the courses are the winning wines
and with our starter we had The Apprentice, the Stellenrust White Cinsault
It is quite intense on the nose with definite red wine characteristics, slightly dusty, with rhubarb
and also aromas and flavours we associate with Chenin blanc, a varietal which Stellenrust does very well
It has crispness and is smooth in texture with lemon and some salt on the end palate
It does ask to be paired with food
The back label
Herb crusted farmed Kabeljou was the starter, crisp on top. moist and flaky below
Served on a bed of salad leaves and baby tomatoes, mange tout and courgette ribbons
Dressed with a white peach and rooibos dressing
The contenders for Winemaker of the Year watching the preamble to the presentation for that award
Tense moments as we watched a video introducing all the finalists and their wines:
Jacques de Klerk - Radford Dale - 2018 Radford Dale Freedom Pinot Noir
Richard Kershaw - Kershaw Wines - 2018 Clonal Selection Elgin Pinot Noir & 2018 Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge Pinot Noir
Daniel Keulder - Nitida - 2017 Nitida Pinot Noir
Jean-Claude Martin - Creation Wines - 2018 Creation Estate Pinot Noir 
Peter de Wet - De Wetshof - 2017 Nature in Concert Pinot Noir 
and the winner is
Daniel Keulder, Nitida Pinot Noir 2017
with the trophy presented to him by Clayton Reabow of Môreson, last year's Winemaker of the Year
Danie, very excited, told us that he has a 5 degree angle on the Burgundy style
He made his first Pinot Noir in 2015 and is now really into Pinot Noir. He believes it should show complexity, layering and balance
The wine is from the 2017 vintage and is perfumed with roses and raspberries, pale cherries and a hint of smoke
On the palate, sweet raspberry fruit, which is then contrasted with morello cherry, warmth of alcohol
Dark wood shows on the end with very long flavours
The back label
Pan roasted veal loin was served with a blueberry sauce and a sharp roasted plum. Not flavours we found in the wine at all
The dish was accompanied by Pommes Anna, heirloom carrots and charred baby onions, very fashionable at the moment,
but they do not add much to dishes, except as containers for a jus when there is some
The dessert: a Strawberry and Granadilla Opera Cake with just a thin top layer of chocolate
Served with a fruity Pink Martini sorbet, aged balsamic vinegar and a black pepper tuile
No dessert wine or coffee was offered to us
Young winemaker of the year Herman du Preez (Stellenrust Wines) with his trophy,
presented by last year’s Young Winemaker of the year, Rudger van Wyk of Stark Condé
Rudger also entered this year
Winemaker of the year Daniel Keulder with his trophy,
 presented by last year's Winemaker of the year, Clayton Reabow of Môreson
Peter de Wet with last year's winner Clayton Reabow and 2010 winner Bartho Eksteen
The band started to play on the terrace and we left soon afterwards at just after 11
We did not see many people dancing this year
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