Wednesday, March 24, 2021

Franschhoek Visit - Tasting Mullineux and Leeu Wines with Chris Mullineux

Then a visit to the Leeu Estate to see Chris Mullineux and taste the Mullineux and Leeu family wines,
kindly arranged for us by Nicolette Waterford

The grounds are quite magnificent, as are the views

The entrance to the winery

These sheep may safely graze on the edge of the dam, they are made of concrete!

Chris Mullineux is the viticulturist on their farm Roundstone, just outside Riebeek Casteel in the Swartland, where they have focused mainly on Chenin and Shiraz, but are now trying out grapes more suited to a hotter climate due to global warming. They believe in non-interventionist farming. They have won many, many accolades, high scores from esteemed local and overseas judges and writers, and many awards for their wine, achieving several pinnacles like Platters Winery of the Year twice; Top Performing Winery of the year twice, and also Shiraz of the Year and Vin de Paille of the Year in 2020. He told us the lovely story of how he and his wife Andrea got together and, of course, it was while they were both doing overseas stages in France during their wine training. Andrea is originally from the USA

Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines’ two portfolios have two distinct stories to tell. The Swartland portfolio encompasses the Signature, Terroir Specific and Kloof Street ranges and the Leeu Passant range is made in Franschhoek from grapes sourced from a variety of regions outside the Swartland

Andrea poses briefly for John in a very, very busy harvest cellar

The farm and winery is full of quirky art and sculptures, we especially like this dog made from old metal pieces

Time to begin the tasting. There would be seven wines to taste

We began with the 2019 Mullineux Old Vines White, a blend of one parcel of 41 year-old Chenin and a parcel of 11 year old Grenache Blanc, and 5 year old Maccabeo and Verdelho, on the stony Schist based soils of the Kasteelberg; two parcels of 40-65 year-old dry land bush vine Chenin, one parcel of 44 year old Clairette Blanche, a 60 year old heritage Semillon Gris vineyard grown on the decomposed Granite of the Paardeberg, and a parcel of 21 year-old Viognier on the iron-rich soils of the rolling hills west of Malmesbury. So we expected lots of complexity and indeed we found it. The wine has a beautiful texture; it is crisp and fruity, with layers of flavours from the different terroirs. Very satisfying and a great introduction to the range

Then two wines that really do show the affect of different terroirs. The Mullineux Quartz 2019 Lieliefontein Chenin Blanc from a single vineyard of 38 year old vines planted in a quartz kloof on the Kasteelberg. Yeasty, biscuity from the natural fermentation on the lees, and then malolactic fermentation. The wine has a hint of gun flint and a faint perfume of summer. Sweet yellow stone fruit with long crisp elegant lime flavours on the end

Then the Mullineux 2019 Granite Chenin Blanc from 43 year old parcel of sustainably and dry farmed bush vines planted in the decomposed Granite soils of the Paardeberg, which is a known excellent area for Chenin, with its flinty decomposed granite soils. It goes through the same fermentation as the Quartz. Smoky gun-flint on the nose, the wine has good rounded flavours of quince, cooked apple, apricots and some lively acidity. Lynne could not stop sipping, and saved her glass to continue tasting, to see how it developed. It just got better

The Kloof Street Swartland Rouge, from their more affordable range, is a blend of 44% Tinta Barocca, 44% Syrah, 7% Grenache, 4% Cinsault, 1% Carignan. 25% whole bunches are added and the total maceration is for 4 to 6 weeks then drained and pressed to barrel for malolactic fermentation. Perfumed fruit, very approachable, with good raspberry notes. On the palate, licorice and spice from the wood; the wine is full to bursting with dark berry fruit, warmth, long flavours and some good chalky tannins, denoting that it may last rather well and be good value

The Mullineux 2017 Swartland Wine of Origin Syrah is from different vineyards of varied soil types, all Swartland and from vines aged between 22 and 30 years. 90% added as whole bunches to tank and the remainder is added destemmed. Naturally fermented, then pressed to barrel for malolactic fermentation and maturation. Then bottled unfiltered and unfined. This requires very careful winemaking and it shows. Perfumed, with a whiff of smoke, there good dark berry fruit and some spice. On the palate, velvety tannins, good bright mulberry and other dark berry fruit, followed by some soft chalk and long flavours. A definite food wine

The interesting back label from the Kloof Street Rouge

Next three different Mullineux Syrahs:

Mullineux Granite Syrah 2018 from Jakkalsfontein in the Paardeberg. The last year of the drought. 24 year old dryland bush vines grown in the decomposed granite, Whole bunches were put into open top 500L French oak barrels and foot stomped to release some juice. 25% new oak, followed by 9 months in 2nd fill foudres. On the nose, spice, good wood, and lots of aromatic dark berry fruit. Rounded palate of sweet berry fruit, a hint of mint, complex and layered with tight tannins. Made to last, but drinking well now

The Mullineux 2018 Schist Roundstone Syrah from their farm in the Kasteelberg, 21 year old vines planted in the stony Shale and Schist soils. Spice, good wood and a hint of violet on the nose. Red berries, mulberries, tight tannins and some chalk, then raspberries appear & more chalk and licorice on the end. Intriguing. Similar wine making to the Granite and the Iron

The Mullineux 2018 Iron Syrah is from the Hughes family farm, 19 year old organically farmed dryland bush vines on the rolling, iron-rich soils west of Malmesbury. This has excellent fruit on the nose, richness and elegance on both nose and palate, spicy red and black fruit, crisp chalky tannins and licorice wood on the end

A most impressive tasting, so enjoyable and educational. A real learning experience to see the different terroirs affect on the wines and the different wine-making techniques. Thank you so much Chris and Andrea and Leeu Estates

All content in this article is © John & Lynne Ford, MENU

Franschhoek Visit - Tasting with Irene Waller at La Bri

A visit to La Bri in Franschhoek happened on Thursday morning of our visit. We had not told them that we were coming, as we did not think we would have the time, but we did manage to clean, pack and move out of our accommodation at Sunny Lane by 10 am. We were not due at our lunch appointment until 12

La Bri is involved in the Save the Rhino charity and has this cute baby in the tasting room
plus items for sale and a wine from which proceeds go to the fund

The lovely tasting room with its long table made from one piece of wood



A happy smiling Julian Johannes in the tasting room
Yes, she is wearing a mask, but her smile radiated from her eyes and she is very welcoming

She recognised us and immediately brought us a taste of their 2013 Cap Classique Blanc de Blanc, made entirely from Chardonnay; it has a good mousse, and is crisp and dry with long citrus flavours. So enjoyable. The wine spends 5 years on the lees and then 3 years in bottle

We were very surprised and delighted to see Cellarmaster Irene Waller de Fleuriot, who is busy with her harvest,
but she generously took time to take us through a tasting of the wines

We have known her for many years and she is an extremely talented winemaker

She took us on a quick tour of the cellar
A bridge over the barrel cellar, which has expanded a lot since we were last here, connects the tasting room to the winery

And a sight you see often in good producers' cellars during harvest, just-harvested grapes coming in, being hand sorted by bunch and then, after going through the destemming machine, being hand sorted again. It slows the process, but is worth it. This makes the wine so much better, cleaner and with better flavours. All green, damaged grapes, leaves, stems etc are removed. It is an expensive process but produces such great wine

Irene showed us inside a fermenting tank

The ferment has just begun and you can see it is quite lively already

The circular design of the cellar is very clever. It was designed by specialist architect Gerard de Villiers

Time to sit down and taste. Each of these wines is linked to a specific flower – the characteristics of the wine are symbolized by that particular flower on the label. First the 2019 Clivia Chardonnay, gently wooded in 2nd fill French barrels. There is a hint of wood on the nose with white fruit and the wine is full and crisp on the palate, with white peach, pineapple and citrus and a biscuity backbone from the wood. Only stand-out grapes get a black version of the label of each wine

The 2018 Ixia Viognier is a classic of the genre. Cooked apple, apricot and honey on the nose bring to mind Condrieu in style. Older 600 litre oak barrels are used and the alcohol is a low 12 to 13%. Dry and lean, then loquat and white peach appear and delight. A food wine with long flavours

The Double Door Range introduces wines that are made from a mix of estate grapes and grapes brought in from neighbouring farms. This gives Irene the chance to be creative and produce wines that have their own distinctive style. This is the Double Door White 2017, a Rhône Style Blend with a twist – a mix of 56% Roussanne, 19% Chardonnay, 15% Viognier and 10% Semillon. We loved it; Summer in a glass. Rich, sweet English gooseberry fruit, white, crisp seedless grapes, rounded by the Semillon, delicious and juicy. Demands food

The 2017 Herb Syrah , another stand-out vintage. It goes into new barrels for 2 years. Irene was under pressure to release this vintage. It has elegance, lovely fruit, spice and pepper on the nose; soft sweet berry fruit on the palate, warmth, chalky tannins, and made in a lighter style than the usual heavy shirazes. Another good wine for food

The 2016 Watsonia Cabernet Sauvignon is made from Franschhoek Cabernet and has violets, cassis - berries and leaves - and a hint of tobacco wood on the nose. Soft and silky, it's pure cassis fruit, with grippy tannins, totally balanced and will last 20+ years

Just to show you how little we actually imbibe during a tasting. This is the row of Lynne's tasting glasses after the tasting. Sometimes you can see how much she liked a wine by the level! We bought a case of the Double Door White, a 50/50 blend of Roussanne and Semillon, and one of the 2017 Double Door Petit Verdot, a favourite grape, which is made from a unique block on the farm, giving beautiful black fruit on the nose and palate; a full body and a rich lingering finish, both wines we know and love

Thank you so much Irene and Jules! A great experience; we encourage other wine lovers to go and taste these lovely wines for themselves

All content in this article is © John & Lynne Ford, MENU

Saturday, March 20, 2021

Franschhoek Visit - Sushi Lunch at GlenWood

It had rained heavily overnight and there was a mist above the valley when we set out on Wednesday for GlenWood, down Robertsvlei Road. We know their excellent wines and had been invited to come and sample their excellent Gourmet Sushi. Everyone in Franschhoek to whom we mentioned that we were going there said you will really enjoy it; the sushi is very good. And it was.. 

We stopped at the entrance of the farm and you can see how heavily the rain was coming down
as the farmhouse is almost wrapped in rain


We had a quick run to the entrance


The lovely gardens were sodden

So good for filling the dams and for the gardens, but not so good for any grapes that were still on the vine

We had been booked a table on the terrace. That was definitely off the menu today

Tipping it down, this is looking back at the parking area - and the rain!

In the entrance you can see the range of wines and this is where you are welcomed

We were given a good table next to the window
Glenwood did have another chef doing sushi several years ago, this chef is different
Interior glass windows show the wine cellar

We learned that the chef Lungani Ntuli has trained and then worked under a Japanese sushi master for many years
We knew then that the sushi would be good
He and his assistant at the sushi counter preparing out lunch
We were asked what we wanted from the very extensive menu
and we said please just bring us a selection of sushi that you want us to write about
We love sushi and we are adventurous

Chef doing his prep

On a nicer day you can sit out on the terrace through those doors and enjoy a wine tasting and some sushi

The table setting

There is lots of choice on the menu

We wondered if we would be given some of the Chef's signature rolls

Or some combos. Our only request was no cucumber please. We don’t like it in sushi and that was not a problem for them

Nice to see Tataki and Tempura, and a vegetarian choice

The wine list, some of the wines by the glass which suited us 

We did a brief wine tasting first. We started with the 2020 wooded Chardonnay. Citrus and caramel on the nose; perfume, salt and smoke. Some sweetness on the palate, cooked apple, apricot and light oak on the end
Unwooded 2019 Chardonnay. Bready with golden fruit notes on the nose. Lime, lemon and a little bitterness from the skin contact, served very cold
The Save Our Rhinos Rosé made from Shiraz grapes; it’s a project with an NPO which gets 80% of the profits. Good red berry fruit with raspberry, plum and strawberry with follows through on the palate, nice and dry, a good wine with food 

The details on the back

Then the 2019 Merlot, which was in 3rd fill barrels. Oak, concentrated mulberries, cherries
On the palate, cherries, nice fruit and length, grippy tannins; it is still very young
The 2019 Shiraz spent 18 months in 2nd and 3rd frill barrels
It has smoke, dark fruit, green leaves and white pepper on the nose
Dark fruit plums, mulberries, morello cherries with some umami flavours 

Wow, our platter of the sushi they selected for us to taste. Many of these are Chef's Signature items. The back row is the Crunch bomb, with crisp bits of prawn tempura, topping a roll with avo, (cucumber) and seared tuna topped with a sweet soy and mayo. Hot Night rolls on the 2nd row left - spicy tuna and avo inside with panko shrimp topped with a sweet chilli mayo and sesame seeds, Rainbow Roll reloaded with caviar, mayo, a very good sticky sweet soy sauce, sesame oil and seven spice and in front salmon roses and very, very fresh salmon sashimi. All were delicious and recommended

And then a very nice surprise, DP Burger, the GM and Cellarmaster and an old friend, popped in; he had been busy elsewhere and was not expected; great to see him. He told us that up until 8 that morning they had 72 mm of rain and it was still falling, so the prediction for that day was much higher. It certainly is filling the dams

And rain it raineth. Indeed it did continue very strong until exactly midnight

All content in this article is © John & Lynne Ford, MENU