Wednesday, December 08, 2021

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 16. Keurbooms River, Plettenberg Bay

On day 10 of our trip, we were packed and ready to move by 9h45 and headed towards Plettenberg Bay; nearly 300Km, so achievable in time for a lateish lunch. We wanted to visit friends who have recently moved to Keurbooms and this was the closest accommodation we could book. It had been chilly the previous night and rain was promised. We wanted to miss Port Elizabeth, so headed for Uitenhage and did some essential food shopping there. And, as we left, the rain came down like a fully turned on shower and stayed with us until Jeffrey’s Bay. Not pleasant driving, but at least the road was pretty empty for most of the way. Once we passed St Francis Bay, we were suddenly on the well named Garden Route again. Lush green meadows, flowering trees, even a wheat field. And full rivers; then the Tzitzikamma forest

We made a stop for lunch just before Keurbooms and noticed that we were on the road leading to some of the wine farms which we had intended to find and visit! Great coincidence; no planning was involved. Having eaten our Pepper steak pies, what else was there to do but go and taste wine? First call was Newstead, owned by the Lund family. We had them at the top of our list to visit as we had heard and read very good things about their award winning wines. They were awarded the title of Best Producer at the Amorim Cap Classique Challenge 2020. Anton Smal, whom we first met when he was making wine at Villiera, makes their wines (and does the same for other farms in the area)

They were pretty busy, so we were asked to take a seat outside on the terrace where we would taste the wines

It was rather open to the elements - rain and wind, and very chilly, but they did provide blankets

Vines just bursting into new leaf

The restaurant area across the lawn seemed very popular

The wine list with the prices for the tastings

and the drinks menu with descriptions of the wines

And whom should we meet but Susan Murray, who now works there as Restaurant Manager. We have known her for many years, as she worked at the Cape Wine Academy. We had a great tasting of their very good wines and Cap Classiques. The vineyards were planted in 2007 and they had their first harvest in 2012

They have two Cap Classiques: The Blanc de Blanc 2016 has vanilla, and rich buttery brioche on the nose with crisp dry limes, lemons and grapefruit on the long palate and a good mousse. The Cap Classique Rosé is 83% Pinot Noir and 17% Chardonnay. It spends 6 months on the lees. Lots of raspberries and strawberries from the Pinot Noir; it has a crisp bubble and is slightly creamy, with some perfume on the after palate

Next, the 2021 Sauvignon Blanc which has that classic cat’s pee and elderflower nose;
silky on the crisp palate with minerality and length. The vineyards pick up cooling breezes from the sea

Susan made sure that we were able to taste the 2015 Blanc de Blancs which has won many awards, including Five stars from Platter. More sophisticated and balanced on the nose; herbal hints, brioche. On the palate, it is crisper and more layered with lime and lemon notes, then richness fills the creamy palate. Very good

The 2021 Rosé is made from 20% Chardonnay and 80% Pinot Noir. It is full of strawberry, raspberry, cranberry
and rose petal aromas and flavours, lovely fruit, good mouthfeel, and a food wine

Happy Muragzikwa poured our wines and was a mine of information about them and the farm
They have three hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and the rest is planted with Chardonnay & Pinot Noir

A stool made in the form of a Newstead Muselet. The bottles, in fact, have a plain one

A view of the winery over the vines. We recommend a visit if you are in the area


Dietes Grandiflora, our indigenous iris


Further down the rather potholed road, we came to Kay and Monty wines, who have two wines to taste, Kay and Monty, who were the owners, have long departed this world but have left a good legacy, not only in the quirky naming of the wine. Owner Steph Legh comments “Kay & Monty Vineyards is a lasting tribute to my grandparents - On balmy summer evenings Kay was likely to turn to Monty and conspiratorially suggest a chilled glass of Champu”. The farm was bought by Chick Legh, an avid polo player in 2004. He converted it into a polo estate. Subsequently, it was one of the first estates in the area, after pioneering Bramon, to start planting vineyards


Currently, they have only these two wines available for tasting. Champu 2016 is a Blanc de Blanc Cap Classique which has pear, apple and brioche on the nose. Crisp and full of pear and apple on the palate. The 2019 SAV, is a Sauvignon Blanc from a very hot and dry season, we were told. Elderflower on the shy nose, sweeter more tropical in style, with loquat, apricot and yellow peach with a grapefruit bite on the end

The tasting room is huge and can be used as a function venue
We thought it would be ideal for lovely smaller weddings

There is comfortable seating and a welcome open fire - it was a very cold day, 10ºC at lunch time

The two nicely chilled wines

Prudence Smuppinya was so knowledgeable about the wines and was very hospitable

The last winery in the area, Lodestone, sadly, was closed so we headed straight for our overnight accommodation at Mandalay Guest House where we had a good garden apartment with a kitchen. Here The TV was broken, and we had a quiet night, watching some Britbox on our computer. We have not watched nor missed much TV on this trip. but we felt the need for some All Creatures Great and Small, or some Vera. The TV in the apartment is so old that it only gets a few bad choices, when it works. It was a cold night, but we had a heater and electric blankets. This is the small kitchen and lounge area, well suited to summer weather, with the tiled floor throughout

The bedroom, with the small shower room next door. There was plenty of storage space


Up the next morning to meet our friends, the Fishers, for brunch at the restaurant on the side of the Keurbooms Estuary called Down to Earth at 10 am. It is easy to find, as it is on the N2. The roads were busy on the Monday morning, as everyone was heading for work. It was a short 10 minute drive from Plettenberg Bay. A wonderful place to sit and watch the tide fill the estuary, if a little chilly that morning, but it did warm up


We sat and watched the tide come in


and the estuary birds feeding in the water, like this white heron



There are fishermen on the flats and in boats
Wonder what they are collecting? Crabs, shellfish, white mussels?

It has a very good breakfast menu with lots of choices that we like
and they bring honey to sweeten the tea rather than sugar, which we try to avoid
The coffee, tea and green juice came first and, a while later - they are very relaxed - the breakfast

Alexandra is on a short exclusion diet for her arthritis and had avocado, smoked salmon with sour cream, lemon,
fried mushrooms, and spinach which looked amazing

Lynne could not resist having her favourite breakfast, French toast with crisp bacon


John and Johnny had beans and sausages with eggs, toast and marmalade. John had scrambled egg



Johnnie had a poached egg

After spending a lovely long morning catching up on what we had all been doing during Covid and their move,
we went to see their beautiful house which is on the other side of the Keurbooms river


Alexandra in the kitchen




A happy smiling Johnnie

We walked around the estate and along the grassed front banks, past the jetties, admired their boat
and watched the birds, the fishermen and their dogs having fun, especially Molly, their Labradoodle

It looks like a lovely place to live; everyone keeps the public areas tidy and neat. We chatted to their neighbours and then it was back to the house and a good bottle of Sauvignon Blanc to continue the avid conversation; so good to catch up with old friends after too long. 

And suddenly it was 5 pm and time to get to our next stop, Belvidere Manor in Knysna (Click here)



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Tuesday, November 30, 2021

In MENU This Week. Platter 2022 launch, John Collins wines. Addo National Park

Spectacled Weaver male (ploceus ocularis) Addo Elephant National Park

It almost seems like the old times. Two wine functions to attend, protocols observed, of course. There was no Platter launch last year, so this year’s event was very special, but in the open air on a wine estate, rather than in the ballroom of premium hotel. And the continuation of our road trip story; this week, it’s all around our stay at Addo and visit to the Addo Elephant Park with photographs, naturally. We’ve had lovely comments from readers up to this point, and we hope you’ll enjoy these. Please click on the headlines, photographs and Read on…

Platter's SA Wine Guide 2022 Launch

The release of the Platter Wine Guide is a much looked forward to event in our year. It is our bible; we use it almost daily to check facts, get names, spelling and to plan visits to wine farms. And, of course, to investigate wines we want to buy. We always have one in the car and one on our desks. This year, we will now also have the digital version on our computers and our phones. This is available on the apps for iOS/Apple and Android, and on the website, www.wineonaplatter.com. This year's launch of the latest 2022 edition, with its refreshed, sharp corporate logo, was held at Kleine Zalze wine estate in Stellenbosch on a lovely early summer afternoon and they were also to reveal the recipients of its sought-after and esteemed pinnacle awards – the Wineries and Wines of the Year. Read on…

John Collins' Trade wine tasting at Den Anker

It is trade tastings like this that we have missed so much in the time of Covid. John Collins usually holds his annual tasting at this popular Belgian restaurant in the V&A Waterfront. and it was here again this year. The tasting tables were well spaced out and people attending were well spaced apart. The list of wine farms and producers that John represents is a fine one. Read on…

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 13. River Front Estate, Addo

The trip from Cradock to Addo was uneventful; the country is full of rolling hills rather than mountains. The N10 national road is good, but we must have had to pass at least 60 very large trucks and numerous smaller commercial vehicles on the way. As you approach, driving south, you drive over a very high pass called Olifantskop, which is apparently one of the most dangerous in South Africa - because of the high number of commercial vehicles and the sharp hairpin bends. The views from the top are magnificent and we understand that, on a good day, you can see the sea. We went up it very slowly, following trucks. Many of them are double-trailered ore trucks going to Port Elizabeth. They would have gone by train in the past but, apparently, Prasa, which runs the SA railways (incompetently), is not working with the mining companies, so our roads are flooded with these trucks. We arrived at River Front Estate at 12.30. Read on…

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 14. Addo Elephant National Park


We took so many photographs during our three days in Addo that it would be impossible to show them all and it would also test your patience. If you are interested, there are more photographs at https://johnduncanford.picfair.com. Our hostess at River Front Estate, Lisa Ferreira, told us about a back entrance to the park, just across the road. However, once we were in the park, a ranger told us that it was an illegal entry point. It is actually an access road for traffic to the other side of the park and they log your car in as you enter and then out again on the other side. So we needed to go to the main gate and register with our Wild Card. Read on…

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 15. Supper at the Cattle Baron, Addo

On our last night in Addo we fancied spoiling ourselves with dinner out. We had heard very good things about the Cattle Baron at the main camp, so we made a booking for 6.30. The game area of the park closes at 6, but the area enclosing the accommodation, the shop and restaurant is still accessible until the park's gate closes at 8.30 pm. Read on…

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MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 15. Supper at the Cattle Baron, Addo

On our last night in Addo we fancied spoiling ourselves with dinner out. We had heard very good things about the Cattle Baron at the main camp, so we made a booking for 6.30. The game area of the park closes at 6, but the area enclosing the accommodation, the shop and restaurant is still accessible until the park's gate closes at 8.30 pm

The restaurant is large inside and nicely spaced for Covid
There is a very large area at the side, covered with thatch, which is more open
They serve breakfasts and lunches here too

They have a good corkage policy, One bottle free, then R60 for the next bottle, unless that bottle is already open, with some of the wine already consumed – which fit our profile to a T as we did have an already opened bottle of red with us

So at 6.30 we were back, confronting the large and somewhat retro menu. It is quite varied, even for those little folk who insist on eating plant based 'meat' (apologies to Dame Edna). Our wonderful waitress Themba took our order for two Deep fried Camemberts with Cranberry sauce, which were excellent and came, rather strangely, with a huge dollop of sour cream and 3 melba toasts, not needed on board. We had this deliciousness with Jordan's 2019 Inspector Peringuey Chenin Blanc - tropical notes on the nose, but lovely, linear lime and lemon crispness on the palate with white peach and litchi

Our main courses were also excellent. John had the Blackened Pepper Fillet with a Green Madagascan sauce
To gild the lily, they flame it in brandy at the table, which does cook it a little more than the medium rare ordered
The flaming was done very skilfully by our waitress Themba, and the jug was rather full

Lots of brandy was involved

Lynne had the Pork Ribs and Prawns
Four huge King prawns with a lemon garlic butter sauce and a half rack of tender and well sauced ribs
Nice and sticky and, yes, we had a finger bowl brought to us
Understandably, we could do no more, so no desserts were necessary and some ribs went 'home' with us in a doggie bag

Our red bottle was the rest of the previous night’s Rhebokskloof MGS, enough for a small glass each
As good as any similar, well prepared meal we could get in Cape Town and probably better

The bill with service. Good value at R552 including service

Monday, November 29, 2021

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 13. River Front Estate, Addo

The trip from Cradock to Addo was uneventful; the country is full of rolling hills rather than mountains. The N10 national road is good, but we must have had to pass at least 60 very large trucks and numerous smaller commercial vehicles on the way. As you approach, driving south, you drive over a very high pass called Olifantskop, which is apparently one of the most dangerous in South Africa - because of the high number of commercial vehicles and the sharp hairpin bends. The views from the top are magnificent and we understand that, on a good day, you can see the sea. We went up it very slowly, following trucks. Many of them are double-trailered ore trucks going to Port Elizabeth. They would have gone by train in the past but, apparently, Prasa, which runs the SA railways (incompetently), is not working with the mining companies, so our roads are flooded with these trucks

We arrived at River Front Estate at 12.30; a 15 minute drive from the main gate into Addo. We had booked in for 3 nights. After checking in, we went straight into Addo for the afternoon. Lisa Ferreira, the manager, told us about a short cut into the park; we used it. We didn’t book accommodation inside the park, although we had intended to, because the rates had been doubled from the previous month, which made it completely unaffordable for us. And apparently for many other people, as the Park now has plenty of vacancies and the good accommodation just outside is very full

Outside our cottage, a lovely show of California Poppies

Our spacious cottage overlooking the Sunday’s River was lovely, and the river was flowing

We had a stoep with chairs and tables and could eat outside when the weather played along. A visit already from one of the cats, appropriately named Fatcat. They seek out company. The first day was rather cloudy, windy and chilly in the evening. So Lynne made us a curry. The sunset was superb because of the clouds

 Lynne going to the edge of the garden where the view of the river is superb
We did have our sundowners, dinner and breakfast out on the stoep

Flowing very well and many swallows have made their nests just below the bank

a spacious lounge

....and kitchen area with floor to ceiling glass doors

The comfortable bedroom with en suite shower room

and good storage space

Fat Cat was with us for most of the time, appreciated, because Lynne was missing our two

Duchess, the young and very enthusiastic, soppy Great Dane

Sunset over the Sunday's

Lisa Ferreira's young son

We thoroughly recommend River Front Estate if you are heading for Addo; we loved our stay there

Next: Click here to see our time in the Addo Elephant National Park

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Friday, November 26, 2021

John Collins' Trade wine tasting at Den Anker

It is trade tastings like this that we have missed so much in the time of Covid
John Collins usually holds his annual tasting at this popular Belgian restaurant in the V&A Waterfront
and it was here again this year

The tasting tables were well spaced out and people attending were well spaced apart
The list of wine farms and producers that John represents is a fine one

And, of course, should you need a refresher, there is always good Belgian and local beer on offer at Den Anker

They produced some of the best canapés we have enjoyed at any event that we have attended this year (not that there have been many), but they were generous and circulated frequently. These were warm Bitterballen on a mustard sauce at the back of the board and small triangles of deep fried battered cheese. Divine

Huge tempura battered peeled prawns (YUM!) and squares of sirloin steak topped with a tarragon butter

Pretending to be serious were cellarmaster Sjaak Nelson and marketing manager Marcha Cook on the Jordan Stand. Jordan wines are always consistently good and enjoyable. However, we have to mention how good The Cold Fact 2021 Sauvignon Blanc is - classic blackcurrant leaf with fig; crisp and layered on the palate. The Nine Yards Chardonnay is superb and will reward keeping for a while. The Black Magic 2018 Merlot has raspberry leaves on the nose, then ripe cherries. It is soft on the palate, juicy and long with minerality and dark chocolate oak on the end. Just what we want from a Merlot. The Prospector Shiraz 2020; rose petals, spice and dark berries on the nose, full and spicy on the palate, with layers of fullness and fruit and lovely chalky tannins on the end. And one of our wines of the night was the 2017 Cobbler’s Hill, a classic Bordeaux blend with a hint of violets from the Petit Verdot. Layers and layers of fruit on the nose and the palate, silky and juicy, so satisfying and near perfect. Lynne gave it 19/20

Sisters Jenna and Emma Bruwer from Springfield, showing the wines from their family farm in Robertson. Jenna handles sales and marketing, while Emma is a winemaker. We had such an intense and super tasting with Emma when we were there recently; that report will be published a little later, at the end of our stories about our road trip. The special Springfield Sauvignons Blancs, Chardonnays and Pinot Noir are what we regularly buy and drink. Their new 2021 Albarinho is also very good, as are the other red wines, two cabernets and the Bordeaux blend, the 2015 Work of Time. Good to see that they now have the new vintage of Thunderchild 2020, a wine created as part of a worthy community project, all proceeds going to the Robertson Childrens’ Home 

A happy looking John Collins. Lock down and wine buying prohibition have been very, very tough for wine negociants
We are so pleased to see him back, doing good business in the trade

Wine shop owners Louise and Mark Herd whose shop, Sunset Beach Wines, is in Table View
Not an easy period for them either

On the Bruce Jack stand were horticulturalist Jason Snell and winemaker Thornton Pillay. There were a lot of wines to taste. Four collections - the Lifestyle Collection, The Reserve Collection, The Heritage Collection and Bruce Jack Estate Wines. Of special mention was the Boer Maak 'n Plan 2018 Chenin Blanc from 24 year old vines; lovely, classic, deep Chenin nose, it has that leesy character, exciting on the palate, full and crisp, with yellow stone fruit, limes, melon and long flavours. We also really liked the 2017 Moveable Feast, a very unusual blend of Malbec, Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Touriga National and Tannat. Notes of Armani perfume with cherries on the nose. All the different grapes appear on the palate, so it’s quite exciting initially. It is so soft and succulent to drink, quite delicious

Johan & Sofie Kruger with their Kruger Family Wines. We began with what was, for us, the best white wine of the day, the Sans Chêne (without wood) 2019 Chardonnay. Perfumed and full of ripe citrus fruit on the nose. Nutty, creamy on the palate, with good weight and lots of character with crisp, ripe citrus. There seems to be a trend developing again for very heavily wooded Chardonnays done in new oak barrels. We stay away from those; it is so unnecessary and this wine proves it. The 2020 Old Vines Palomino from Piekenierskloof was very interesting. Johan’s description of beeswax, brown toast and lemongrass flavours is absolutely right and it is good to see this once popular grape being used so well again. And we really enjoyed the Cap Classique Brut Rosé 2019, which is of the palest pink possible. The grapes come from the Hemel en Aarde and have that good splash of raspberry in a dry, summery bubbly

A toast to their partnership with John Collins

Winemaker Reynie Oosthuizen of Tamboerskloof/Kleinood in Stellenbosch is also the viticulturist of this very high wine farm. The Tamboerskloof Syrah 2019 has spice and wood on the fruity nose; layers of dark berry fruit, chalky tannins and wood and spice on the end. The 2013/15 John Spicer Tamboerskloof Syrah is similar but is several levels up. More, much more, fruit and concentration, chalky grippy tannins, good acid balance, dark wood and length. In another league, but also much pricier. One to put away if you have the income

On the Diemersfontein table, Lynne only had time to taste two wines. The Carpe Diem 2020 Malbec is quite dry, with layers of berries and dark plums, with licorice wood and chalky tannins. The 2019 Merlot impressed with ripe fruit, good chalky tannins, soft and sweet cherry flavours; a lovely wine which we will buy

Having a long chat about the state of the industry and life in the time of Covid with John C
It was a very good display of some excellent wines from distinguished wine farms and winemakers

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