Thursday, February 17, 2022

A holiday break in Yzerfontein

At the end of January, we went on another Great Escape, this time a return to lovely Yzerfontein, by the sea up our West Coast, for 10 days. We enjoyed our Karoo/Garden route trip in October so much that we had been longing to get away, but had to wait until the Omicron variant of Covid had abated. As you will see from the photographs, the surf was up – it is only 79 kilometres away, you Cape surfers. And there is lots of accommodation available at reasonable prices. We are so pleased to see some new restaurants and many food trucks, which may well belong to people who are  pivoting to survive. Yzerfontein has a permanent population of 3000, which swells to 30000 at peak season, which is why we like the off-peak times

We found a superb apartment on AirBnB at a rate we thought was very reasonable. On Upper Street, which a friend says is THE place to be, it has superb views of the north beach and the town and it more than lived up to expectations. Lynne is very picky and spends a long time on all the platforms until she finds the perfect fit. It must be spacious, have our own entrance, have a view and somewhere to sit outside, good free WiFi, off road parking, and must, of course, be comfortable. A good TV is a bonus, but we take our computers so we can watch Britbox on them. John's has a 24" screen, better for editing photographs - and watching TV. We like a good kitchen, as Lynne likes to cook, and John likes a braai. Modern requirements nowadays are lots of plugs and a table and chairs where we can work and play on our computers at night. Oh, and hooks in the bathroom to hang clothes while you shower. So few places have got there yet, but they will. This place was a very good fit. Just a few steps into the apartment

A large and very comfortable bedroom with an en suite shower bathroom

It is down three steps from the main room and there was ample storage space

The small balcony was a dream to sit out on, as it is completely sheltered from the South Easter
which can plague the south beach

And this is the view. We loved the different moods of the sea and its lovely wave sounds, especially late at night
Those aloes and trees in front are bursting with bird life

The main room with a large dining/work table and the Binnebraai (inside barbeque and fireplace). A welcome fan and tiled floor throughout

A gas stove top, a microwave and all the other implements you need for two people

Looking back up the hill from the beach, you can see our house,
in front of the palm, top right, with two white towels on our balcony
The large house below our apartment is also available for rent
You can walk down to the beach quite quickly, but Lynne can’t climb hills well with her hip problem, so we drove

It’s a spectacular beach and very popular, not only with swimmers, but kite and surf skiers, bodyboarders,
stand up paddleboarders and, especially, surfers on the side nearest our place

Three boys on Yzerfontein beach, trying to move a heavy rock to build a fort

Waves advancing on Yzerfontein beach, good for surfing

We spent a very pleasant evening with Charles and Janet Withington at their home
and drank this excellent 2013 Chardonnay, made by Charles
He  wishes he had kept more, as we do. NBC stands for Nothing But Chardonnay
It was layered and full of all the lovely golden fruit flavours one expects
with good acidity and complexity and it has lasted so well

and another excellent wine, made by Anthony de Jager at Fairview for Charles Back, from the Drie Papenfontein vineyard
A superb 2016 Darling Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Blend

Charles has also made a Brandy under his Withington brand called Voorkamer
(Afrikaans for the front room, especially of a Cape Dutch house or farmhouse)
which was enjoyed very much. Just the right thing to end the evening with, after some lovely food
We had Spar’s new pork, sage and apple sausages, expertly cooked by Charles on the braai

Early next morning the surfers were out

Good long waves, not too high

On another evening, we lit our Binnebraai and cooked over the coals; a deboned leg of lamb
which we had brought with us, from Woolworths. It was pre-marinated in red wine, herbs and garlic, Greek style


We had also brought a large aubergine from our garden and that went on the braai too and cooked perfectly

Aubergine, crisp skin and gooey inside; tender and medium rare lamb

One of the lovely sunsets

The perfect match for the lamb was a bottle of Haskell Aeon Stellenbosch 2013 Syrah,
made by talented winemaker and member of the Cape Winemakers Guild, Rianie Strydom
Spiced cherry on the fragrant nose, it is light in texture, but not in flavour,
with cherry, raspberry and rhubarb in layers on the fruity palate
Spice and black pepper with still a few grippy but supple chalky tannins, showing it has more to give in future
Lovely with the Mediterranean style lamb and aubergine

We had a lazy day the next day and a walk on the beach at the end of it
We had a little cloud and some rain mid week but it just gave us the excuse to put up our feet and relax
- and wash our dirty car in the rain water

Die Groot Klip (The Big Stone) is a small rocky island in the bay at Yzerfontein

Most of the weekenders leave, so not many people on the beach

Walking on Yzerfontein beach at high tide another day

A middle aged bearded man, wearing a wet suit and a hat, surfing off the beach at Yzerfontein, late afternoon

It becomes a daily necessity, if the weather holds, to go for a walk
We prefer the evening, but many locals were out from very early
One day, Lynne woke before 5 and watched the sun come up. And then went back to bed!

Children, people and Hartlaub's gulls on Yzerfontein beach, early evening

Lovely soft evening light on wet sand

A group of women and children celebrating a 40th birthday

Serious swimmers and 'dippers'

A Kite surfer in a strong wind on another day

The wind was very strong, so they retreated after being blown quite far down the bay

Some great waves to fly over

Experts, needing no assistance getting out to sea

Good Night!


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Wednesday, February 16, 2022

Fish and Chips at Skafti, Yzerfontein

Lynne was just not up to cooking on our first night in Yzerfontein, so we decided to try out one of the restaurants;
Skafti, which is just at the beginning of town opposite the great Spar supermarket, is known for its seafood
We chatted to a couple from Johannesburg at the next table, who had ordered a huge mixed seafood platter to share,
and some oysters, and it all looked very good
They were enjoying a bottle of Sea Salter from Groote Post, which the restaurant manager told us is extremely popular
It is one of our favourite Sauvignons and we know that it goes so well with this sort of food
Skafti has a very good wine list of local wines
The Darling wine farms are all close enough for visits and the wines are worth taking home

Another family having a long dinner with many wines and lots of good food

We ordered the Hake and Chips and they were sensational
A good-sized portion of VERY fresh fish,
pearly and flaking in a very crisp, but not greasy, batter and super crisp and crunchy chips
It’s served with a lemon butter sauce

A strange piece of art on their wall

John took this picture through their window, looking down the hill at the road into Yzerfontein from the R27
It was Friday evening and many weekenders were streaming in

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Portuguese-themed meals at Lulas, Yzerfontein

Lulas Portuguese Restaurant may be Yzerfontein’s best restaurant; it certainly is ours
We had two meals there and were tempted to go again
It is easy to find, being located at the end of the northern beach, and you can see it from the beach
You do need to book, especially at weekends, because it is extremely popular

The menu is large and prices are very reasonable. It is unpretentious and people flock there
They do not have a licence, so you may take your own wine
You can buy drinks from the social club behind the restaurant, however, which is licensed,
but you have to be a member to enjoy their facilities


We were having dinner with Charles and Janet Withington and each pair brought three good wines from our collections
Not to drink them all, but to taste them with the food
Charles owns the Darling Wine Shop and sells a comprehensive range of Darling and other wines


L to R. Perdeberg Courageous 2016 Barrel fermented Chenin Blanc. Just the best Chenin in a long time, rich and layered with wood support; we need some more
De Grendel Koetshuis 2020 Sauvignon Blanc, a classic herbal and green style that we love
Axe Hill Distinta 2016 from port grapes, made in Calitzdorp, superb with the spicy red meat dishes
Neil Ellis 2013 Rodanos, a blend of Shiraz, Cinsault and Grenache, another which is excellent with red meat
Drie Paapen 2017 Bloemcool. Classic Cabernet and Lynne’s favourite red of the evening with layers of fruit and elegance, so well made by Fairview cellarmaster Anthony de Jager (but who calls a wine after a cauliflower?)
and Groote Post 2017 Kapokberg Sauvignon Blanc, another outstanding example of Sauvignon Blanc
All were so special; we had a draw at the end to see who would keep which of the remains
Our Zimbabwean waiter was fascinated at what we were tasting, so Lynne gave him a taste of them all and he was in raptures. Another good palate

Lulas is humble and unpretentious and we sat on the terrace which is covered and wind shielded
Janet and Charles had starters of deep fried calamari tentacles
We had lots of wine chat while we waited for food and sampled the wines

The Trinchado starter - beef in red wine and paprika. It comes with very good chips

Good Hake and chips with a Portuguese cream sauce

Lynne's portion of Lulas, the Portuguese name for baby squid, (and the restaurant) which are grilled
and served in a light, lemony garlic sauce, with lemon and sour cream and chips. Fresh, tender and scrumptious

Beef in red wine, chilli, garlic for John, with more crisp chips
You can order salads but vegetables are not served in profusion in Yzerfontein

The next time we went to Lulas, it was for lunch with a friend from Cape Town who loves Rosé wine;
this is one of our all time favourites, from Quando in Bonnievale
Summery and crunchy with fruit, almost a light red wine on the palate, and made from Mourvedre
The perfect wine to have if one person is having red meat and the other fish or seafood

We ordered a plate of chips to share and they came covered in a spicy cheese sauce!
We loved this interesting variation

The grilled calamari rings starter

This huge portion was a starter of two seafood kebabs on Bubble bread (a sort of pita bread/pizza base)
Too large for our guest, who took the remains home for supper

Tomato rice as a side with the kebabs

Lulas burger, topped with crisp onion rings, bacon and cheese -  excellent

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