Thursday, March 23, 2023

A brief look at the Vergelegen estate

Vergelegen is one of the Cape's and South Africa's most historic properties. After Willem Adriaan van der Stel succeeded his father, Simon van der Stel, as Governor of the Cape in 1700, he claimed a 30,000 hectare piece of land for himself, just as his father had done in his time at Constantia. It was registered on 1st February 1700 and he used the resources of his employer, the Dutch East India Company, to improve the estate and build the famous manor house

In 1706 a number of free burghers at the Cape drew up a formal memorandum
complaining about van der Stel's illegal activities which resulted in his being sent back to the Netherlands in disgrace

In 1798 the estate was sold to the Theunissen family, who planted vineyards
and produced grapes and wine until the phylloxera infestation,
which ruined much of the world’s wine industry in the late nineteenth century,
wiped out most of Vergelegen's grape production

In 1917 Vergelegen was purchased by the millionaire mine magnate Sir Lionel Phillips as a present for his wife Florence
She remodelled aspects of the house and planted the magnificent gardens,
but removed the few remaining acres dedicated to grapes

Following the death of Lady Phillips, the estate was purchased by the Barlow family,
and Charles "Punch" Barlow oversaw the reintroduction of a limited planting of grapes

However, by the time Anglo American bought the property from the Barlows, in 1987, no grapes were being cultivated
Anglo American drew up a detailed master plan for the development of the vineyards and,
after intensive terroir analysis conducted over two years, the first new vines were planted in 1989
A new underground wine cellar was built in the early 1990s 

On our way into the estate to attend this year’s RMB Starlight Classic concert, we paused to take a few photographs

Rain clouds on their way over the mountains as we drove down Lourensford Road toward Vergelegen

The estate is a large property, famous of course for its wines
but it also has a breeding programme for fynbos, Nguni Cattle, eland and bontebok antelope and quagga
in the nature reserve, proclaimed in 2018

some of the Nguni cattle
Environmental tours can be booked on the website

A view across the estate toward the Hottentots Holland mountain range

The estate has many areas of forest, with open glades

and denser areas

Part of the gardens planted by Lady Phillips - with lawns,

a herb garden, next to the Café Fleur restaurant

restful areas with ponds,

seasonally planted flowers

and the famous rose garden

The camphor trees, planted by van der Stel

A last pear of summer, outside the manor house

All the stories we have published can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

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Wednesday, March 22, 2023

High Tea book launch at Klein Constantia

On Thursday 9th March 2023 Klein Constantia launched a new book about the history of this historic wine estate
Established in 1824, the 146 hectare Klein Constantia estate originally formed part of “Constantia”,
a vast property established in 1685 by Simon van der Stel, the first governor of the Cape
Famous for its world-renowned wines, and the revival of the famous 18th century sweet Constantia wine,
known as Vin de Constance

The book is available for sale on the farm

The current owners purchased the farm from the Jooste family in 2011
The four current shareholders are financier Zdenek Bakala, a US and Czech citizen
Charles Harman, a Vice Chairman of J.P.Morgan
Hubert de Boüard de Laforest from St. Emilion, France
and Bruno Prats whofor 28 years, was the CEO and winemaker of his family vineyard Chateau Cos d’Estournel
the famed Cru Classé of Saint Estèphe in the Médoc
Hubert de Boüard de Laforest and Bruno Prats have aligned Anwilka wines with Klein Constantia
Swedish-born Hans Astrom joined the Klein Constantia family in January 2012 as Managing Director
Having studied economics and been voted Sweden’s best sommelier in 1986, Hans worked in the hospitality industry
During this period he established the Swedish Sommelier Association and helped create “Grythytteakademin”,
the first academically based wine and food education programme in Sweden,
and where today one can graduate with a doctorate
Hans continued to gain invaluable experience in the international wine world,
working as Director and Vice President of Sales for Peter Lehmann Wines,
and thereafter assuming the role of General Manager for Hess Family Estates,
spanning four continents and seven wineries.
In recent years, Hans has become a member of the acclaimed Académie du Vin (AIV).
Steven Cowley is Klein Constantia's CEO

The book launch was held in the old cellar, an area the public does not often get to as it is a private area

We turned down past the historic Islamic Kramat (grave of a holy man)

Through a lovely avenue of trees

past the Manor House on your left. Constantia is known for its slopes of decomposed granite soils,
and a cool climate caused by its proximity to the sea and ocean breezes

and arrived on the lawn in front of the old cellar
We met Dougie Jooste's daughter at the event
and she told us of the fun and fabulous parties she experienced in this cellar growing up
Dougie Jooste was the previous owner of Klein Constantia
He bought it in 1980 and restored the farm and its vineyards from their sad and neglected state
into the jewel it has become with Ross Gower as the first winemaker
His son Lowell Jooste sent his son from America to celebrate the event

The door of the old wine cellar

We all enjoyed a glass or two of Klein Constantia 2019 Blanc de Blanc Cap Classique, beautifully crisp and dry with citrus and brioche notes, zesty crisp limes on the palate

Beautiful old beams in the old cellar

A table set with sweet treats

Tiny carrot cakes, shortbread and fresh strawberries

Marshmallows, fresh figs and pretzels for dipping into the chocolate fountain

Mini scones, cream and jam

and bottles of the famous Vin de Constance

A huge attraction was the Chocolate fountain, which did taste of good, high-quality chocolate

and copies of the new book to admire and leaf through

Trays of good canapés circulated all afternoon

Skewers of fresh pear and gorgonzola were delicious

Delicious pink prawn rolls

Excellent open sandwiches with tender rare beef

Arancini balls

The Klein Constantia Cuvée Anabel Rosé 2021 on ice
 This wine is dedicated to Anabel Bakala, the eldest daughter of shareholder Zdenek Bakala

and the Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc, characteristically clean and green with fig leaves,
green gooseberries and nectarine from the good terroir it was grown in, with a touch of vanilla oak

and we could also taste the 2016 Vin de Constance, redolent of the perfume of the muscat grapes it comes from,
with layered candy floss sweetness, stone fruit and a touch of lime to balance;
it has good potential to age as well as the preceding vintages
The wine does not have Noble Rot, nor do they encourage it

Esteemed and experienced wine journalists Malu Lambert and Joanne Gibson are the joint authors of the new book,
Joanne covering the history of the farm and Malu the current developments

Michael Fridjhon and politician Tony Leon in discussion about life, the world and the Government; and wine of course

Charles Harman welcomed the guests
He is a Vice Chairman of J.P.Morgan and has had a thirty year career in international finance
He is also co-owner and a director of Philglas & Swiggot, the London wine merchants
UK born, he was educated at Eton and Oxford
He lives in London but is happiest when he is at his home in Cape Town,
where he has been a regular visitor since 1991
He is a keen cyclist and tennis player and has completed the Cape Town Cycle Tour every year since 2005
He is married to Charlotte, an art historian, and they have two sons and a daughter,
all of whom share his passion for the Cape

Michael Fridjhon, renowned wine writer, judge, educator and wine importer wrote the foreword of the book
He spoke of how, in the 1980s, then owner Dougie Jooste approached the task of recreating the place of legend
as much like an archaeologist as a magician,
conjuring out of the layers and slopes the vineyards that would produce the wines that had been lost in antiquity"

Maryna Calow of WOSA and others listening to the speeches

Malu Lambert and Joanne Gibson enjoying a moment
Both have had extensive training in wine and much experience in our wine world
both have won very prestigious Journalism competitions for wine writing
Malu is also an experienced wine judge, locally and overseas

Joanne Gibson is an expert on the history of Constantia and other wine areas
To quote Michael Fridjhon: "Over the years Joanne Gibson has delved where others found barren ground
She has assembled a cache of forgotten facts and fascinating particulars,
but has also exposed the fables, half truths, fabrications and distortion - some erroneous, some mendacious -
that contaminated the historic record"
She has worked long and hard on this book

Kate Kent, daughter of Dougie Jooste, was very happy to be back visiting the farm she grew up on
and to hear our good memories of Dougie who was quite a raconteur and character
We have both been fans of the wines of Klein Constantia since the 1980s,
so we, too, have happy memories of the wonderful wines produced there and its winemakers, like Ross Gower,
who made the first modern Klein Constantia wines and recreated the historic Vin de Constance
It was a treat to meet her and share those memories

Winemaker Ross Gower, who died in 2010



Craig Harris, viticulturist. Craig took us on a wonderful tour of the farm in March 2020,
a few days before we all went into Covid lock down, it was our last outing for many months
The best memory was being taken to the Muscat de Frontignan vineyard which is the source of the Vin de Constance
and watch the wizened, magical grapes being individually hand harvested, and getting to taste them

Talented winemaker Matthew Day and a colleague
Matt has been with the farm since 2008 and was also appointed chief winemaker at Anwilka in 2021
His wine has won prestigious awards for Klein Constantia, locally and abroad

Heidi Rosenthal Duminy CWM, Cape Wine Academy Principal
and wine writer and judge Fiona McDonald enjoying the day

Everyone there was given a copy of the book and most were very keen to get these three people to sign their copy

Journalist Bubs Hyland chatting to Cathy van Zyl MW

All the stories we have published can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

If you do not wish to receive e-mails from us, please email menucape@gmail.com with the word 'UNSUBSCRIBE' in your email