Wednesday, June 12, 2024

Tasting the wines of Oldenburg

An invitation to visit and taste the wines at Oldenburg
from Stefan Reinmuth, their Private Client Manager and head Sommelier, was quickly accepted
The farm is in Banghoek, eight kilometres from Stellenbosch, on the road to Franschhoek
To quote them "Off the beaten track, a winding road leads deep into the Banghoek Valley
Our unique location benefits from the confluence of 8 Natural Elements,
creating a distinctive terroir and allowing us to make wines that truly reflect their Place"
We know they produce wines of quality that are often awarded and it had been a while since our last tasting on the farm
with winemaker Nic van Aarde, shortly after he had he first joined them

A very warm welcome from Freda when we arrived; we were seated at a table by the open windows 

The tasting room can be closed up tight in bad weather and opened up to nature on good days



Sommelier Gregory Lorimer ably guided us through the wines
A team of sommeliers takes you on the journey to understanding and enjoying the wines

Half way through the tasting, just when we were in need of some sustenance,
this great platter with shaved Gruberg cheese from Klein Rivier, good black olives and crisp crackers
This is complimentary with a tasting. The expanding hand towels in front are supplied to every table

We were to taste several of these wines

Their price list

And should you want to join, they have a wine club, with lots on offer.

Modern Scandinavian is the mood in the airy tasting room with high thatched roofs

The famous Rondeklip hill is the view in front
This round hill, covered in Oldenburg vineyards, is surrounded by an amphitheatre of spectacular Cape mountains

We began with their two white wines
The 2023 Chenin Blanc has rich golden fruit and smoke on the nose
and is full and rich on the palate with ripe fruit and the crispness of limes, granadilla and orange rind
It spends 10 months in old oak in 250 litre foudres and 3rd and 4th fill barrels and is allowed natural fermentation

The 2023 Chardonnay was shy at first, then a little smoke from 24 months in new French oak before the fruit appeared
On the palate, it is crisp with lemon/lime; it fills the palate with depth of flavour and length
with some orange peel notes on the end

The 2029 Syrah is given 25% new French oak, the rest in older barrels. Again, natural fermentation
Spicy, perfume and red berry fruit fill the nose
On the palate it is juicy, silky smooth with cranberry and red cherry giving length and depth with spice on the end,
ready to drink now but will age well

The 2016 Cabernet Franc has that classic savoury nose
with lovely dark mulberry fruit, Bing Cherry, smoke and spice and a hint of the expected umami
A lovely palate with a hint of warmth, the fruit and umami repeats as salty licorice on the end
Wood supports and rounds off this lovely food wine

The hill has some lovely fynbos and proteas and is full of birds

Sunbirds were flitting about gathering nectar

Vines, having given up their harvest, are now going dormant for the winter

The 2022 Grenache Noir shows smoke and fruit combined on the enticing palate, sophisticated and intriguing
Savoury and sweet layers of berry fruit and dark oak meld together without being overwhelming,
long flavours, a wine to serve with meat or game
85% Grenache, 15% Shiraz from bush vines and only old barrels are used

The 9 year old 2015 Cabernet was a treat to taste
Blackcurrants, very mature and green herbaceous with incense wood on the nose
A classic Stellenbosch Cabernet. 20 months in French oak, 40% new
It is a cassis bomb; fruit lingers on the palate, with a hint of grippy tannins that are softening, and long flavours

Those spectacular mountains that surround the farm

Each table is given its own trained sommelier to guide you through the tasting you choose
Do book, this farm is very popular with visitors.

We were then given a tasting of two of their Flagship wines, which are poured using a Coravin aerator

and swirled in a carafe, enlivening the flavours
This means you can get an idea of how they will develop with age

Per Se 2021 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The name means “by itself” or “intrinsically"
Smoke and cassis, deep aromas, minerality, complex and also some delicacy
Silky on the palate, then powerful cassis and warmth take over building its future age, good chalky tannins
Sweet and sour in balance, with plums and cassis; it opens up more on the palate and is juicy
A great wine, needs and calls for food

The Rhodium Blend 2021 refers to the gems in Oldenburg's ancient African soils and its grapes
A blend of 55% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot & 10% Cabernet Sauvignon with 14.5% alcohol it's a really impressive wine
Black cherry and lovely oak supports with a whiff of incense
On the palate, lovely fruit, a mélange of ripe berries, all visible, some umami, licorice and salty minerality. Impressive
As was the entire experience. we are very impressed with the quality of the wines and the excellent service

An autumnal Liquid Amber tree

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Wednesday, June 05, 2024

Gathering at Den Anker in memory of Jos Baker

Jos Baker was something of a polymath
Starting with a career in fashion, she turned her love of food, wine and décor into a long, successful career as a journalist
She also had a lifelong passion of maintaining, Klein Zoar, the historic 18th Century house she lived in
Klein Zoar is said to have been the home of Wolraad Woltemade, a Cape Dutch dairy farmer,
who died while rescuing sailors from the wreck of the ship De Jonge Thomas in a storm in Table Bay on 1 June 1773

Jos showing the book she wrote about her house to Helen Zille,
who was Premier of the Western Cape, at the official residence, Leeuwendal in April 2013

At lunch - Haute Cabrière, June 2014
Always fashionable, always informed and always fun Just no chilli ever!

The first Wake was held at Belgian restaurant Den Anker, a place Ros loved and went to regularly
It was very kindly hosted by Réjeanne and Doekie Vlietman
Réjeanne manages the restaurant and Doekie is the executive chef
There was another on the following Saturday in the garden of Jos's historic house Klein Zoar in Brooklyn,
which we were unable to attend

A small crowd of people, including her family and those who knew Jos personally or as a fellow journalist

Generous cheese platters were suppled

Crackers topped with really well made steak tartare
and there were meltingly delicious warm cheese croquetten

A glass of bubbly to see her on her way ... or some juice

Bennie Howard made a lovely speech about Jos and his memories of her. They were friends for many years

Four members of her late husband's family

Norma Ratcliffe, Mr Wessels, Celia Gilloway, James Berrangé, Rejeanne Vlietman

local décor, spekboom and a protea

A younger member of the Wessels family spoke about his relationship with Jos

Den Anker Chef Doekie Vlietman

Celia Gilloway, who so ably organised both wakes for Jos

Mrs Wessels

James Berrangé

Absolutely divine crisp Belgian Waffles. We have to go back for mussels and more waffles,
washed down by good Belgian beer. Sooon

Chocolate ice cream cones with nuts to dip into

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Tuesday, June 04, 2024

The Trophy Wine Show Judges' Feedback Session at the Grande Roche

The Trophy Feedback session was held this year at Grande Roche, where it was held several years ago
Grande Roche has been through a renovation

This is where we hear a report back about the judges' findings after tasting the various categories of wines,
but we are given no information about the brands as they are all tasted blind

The dates of the two Trophy Public tastings have just been revealed and they are as follows:

Johannesburg - Wednesday 12 June
Venue:  Sandton Convention Centre (Bill Gallagher Room), Maude Street, Sandton
Time: 17:00 to 21:00 (No first entry after 20:30)

Tickets cost R295 each per single entry. Tickets are limited and include the sampling of all wines,
a delicious deli snack (value R100) and the tasting glass to take home
Discounts for Smart Shopper cardholders apply (two tickets for the price of one)

Buy tickets for the Johannesburg show via Webtickets

Cape Town - Wednesday 19 June
Venue: CTICC 2 (Hall 8), corner Heerengracht & Rua Bartholomeu Dias, Foreshore Cape Town
Time: 17:00 to 21:00 (No first entry after 20:30)

Tickets cost R250 each per single entry
Tickets are limited and include the sampling of all wines and the tasting glass to take home
Discounts for Smart Shopper cardholders apply (two tickets for the price of one). Light meals will be on sale

Buy tickets for the Cape Town show via Webtickets

Grapes surround the property

Nestled under the famous Paarl (pearl in Afrikaans) Rock, are some of the historic cottages which are part of the hotel

The Feedback session is held in their conference centre

A good Cap Classique always makes a good welcoming drink, no matter the hour

A smiling server pouring a glass. Sad that the hotel is still using flutes for Cap Classique and other bubblies
Riedel glasses are used for all the tastings in the competition

Judges Eben February and Gynore Hendricks

Lynne in conversation with two International judges, Lisa Feretti-Brown MW (USA) and Fongyee Walker MW

South African Judges

James Petersen, CEO of Wine Cellar Fine Wine Merchants in Cape Town,
a former wine buyer for The Vineyard Connection in Stellenbosch
Graduated with distinction at the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2007
and attended the Advanced Wine Judging Academy in 2014
More than 18 years of judging experience at various wine competitions,
including panel chair for the Standard Bank Chenin Blanc Challenge, panellist for Winemag.co.za
and roving chair for Platter’s South African Wine Guide
First judged at The Trophy Wine Show in 2008 and on 10 occasions since

Eben February
National sales manager at the Great Heart Wine Company, Franschhoek,
with a career in the hospitality industry that began in 2012 as a wine tutor at Delaire Graff Estate in Stellenbosch
Holder of three Cape Wine Academy qualifications, including the Introduction into Wine, the Certificate Course
and Wines of the World
Manager of the Jordan Estate tasting room for seven years
before moving to Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines as manager of the wine studio from 2021 to 2023
Graduate of the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2018, currently studying WSET Level 3
Associate judge at the Trophy Wine Show in 2018, 2022 and 2023

François Rautenbach
Wine and hospitality technical specialist for Agile Minds (Pty) Ltd,
erstwhile founding general manager of the Singita Premier Wine Direct programme for the wildlife conservation brand
Deeply invested in hospitality – having lived and worked in Africa, France, the UK and Australia
with emphasis on wine, food, service, brand and training excellence
Cape Wine Academy Diploma graduate
Distinction graduate of the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2008
and attended the Michael Fridjhon Advanced Wine Judging Academy in 2014
Associate judge at The Trophy Wine Show in 2008, judge from 2011 to 2017 and 2019 to 2022

International Judges

 Fongyee Walker MW (China)
Co-founder (with Edward Ragg) of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting,
Beijing’s first and fully independent wine consulting and education service established in 2007
In 2016, she became the first resident of mainland China to achieve the Master of Wine qualification,
with her dissertation about winter vine burial practices in Hebei and Ningxia
She has delivered WSET and trade-targeted wine courses in Mandarin for such bodies as Wine Australia,
the Hawke’s Bay Wine Association, the Napa Valley Vintners,
and is responsible for wine courses specifically tailored to mainland Chinese students
The star of Wok ’n Wine, a popular internet-broadcast show about food and wine matching involving Chinese cuisines,
which has more than four million viewers, as well Carpe Vinum, featuring the wine regions of Italy, 
which has become one of the most-watched wine shows on video-sharing platforms such as China’s Billi-billi
Writer for Decanter Magazine, Wine Review, RVF China and Wine in China, as well as a columnist for Decanter China
As a wine judge, she has participated in numerous wine competitions including the International Wine Challenge (UK),
the Hong Kong International Wines and Spirits Competition, as well as the Royal Melbourne Wine Show,
the Trophy Wine Show (2014), the Qantas Western Australia Wine Show, AWOCA (Wines of Chile)
and the Hunter Valley Wine Show.

International Judge Claire Blackler MW (UK)
Head of ‘Claire Drinks’ in the UK,
a wine and spirits education and consultancy business,
having transitioned from a decade in pharmaceutical research
She provides WSET courses and tailored training globally, drawing from her extensive knowledge
gained initially through a simple love of wine and further developed through the Master of Wine program,
completing the qualification in 2021
Beyond education, a wine competition judge, providing sensory evaluation and copy writing services,
collaborating on events and marketing projects, compiling wine lists
and offering private cellar guidance

International Judge Lisa Feretti-Brown WM
and South African Judge Mandla Patson Mathonsi

Lisa Feretti-Brown WM
Born and raised in rural Maine, USA, she has since spent over 25 years in the wine industry,
living and working in London, Tokyo, Singapore, and now Napa, California
A Master of Wine since 2008, receiving the Madame Bollinger Medal for excellence in wine tasting
In the same year she began working for Robert M Parker Jr at The Wine Advocate,
initially reviewing Australian and New Zealand wines, becoming editor of the publication in 2013,
reviewing the wines of Bordeaux, the Napa Valley and Sonoma County
Lisa’s first book, Taste Like a Wine Critic: A Guide to Understanding Wine Quality, was published in 2015
In 2021, she left The Wine Advocate to become co-founder of The Wine Independent,
a fresh, new take on wine websites, focusing on storytelling and emotive photography
as much as expert wine reviews
First judged at The Trophy Wine Show in 2015

Madla Patson Mathonsi is National brand ambassador for Beck Family Estates –
The House of Graham Beck in Robertson and Steenberg Vineyards on the Constantia wine route
Recipient of the Eat Out Wine Service Award in 2014
Head sommelier at the DW11-13 restaurant in Johannesburg
and sales representative at the Reciprocal Wine Company from 2015 to 2018
Completed the Cape Wine Academy Certificate Course, WSET Levels 1, 2 and 3
A member of the Hugues Lepin Sommelier and Wine Academy
Graduate of the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2016
Associate judge at The Trophy Wine Show from 2016 to 2018 and judge since 2019


South African Judges

Gynore Hendricks
Winemaker of the Great Heart Wine Company in Franschhoek, assistant winemaker at Mullineux Wines
Completed BAgric in Cellar Technology at Elsenburg in 2016
Participant in the Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé Programme from 2017 to 2019,
during which time she worked at Tokara and De Grendel as well as Mullineux Wines
Worked two harvests abroad (Burgundy and Napa Valley)
Distinction graduate of the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy
Associate judge at The Trophy Wine Show in 2021. Judge in 2022 and 2023

Heidi Duminy CWM
Cape Wine Master and principal of the Cape Wine Academy
Formerly communications manager for DGB, brand manager for Veuve Clicquot and Krug,
as well as trade marketing manager of the LVMH portfolio of Champagnes and spirits
Wine marketing specialist and group marketing manager for Meridian Holdings
Distinction graduate of the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2011
and Advanced Wine Judging Academy attendee in 2014
Convener for the Amorim Cap Classique Challenge since 2017,
chair of the Diner’s Club Winemaker of the Year panel in 2020, and sparkling wine judge at the Veritas Awards since 2011
Associate judge at The Trophy Wine Show in 2012, 2014 and 2015, judge since 2016

Narina Cloete
Winemaker at Blaauwklippen Agricultural Estate, Stellenbosch
Honours BSc Agriculture (Oenology), cum laude graduate of Stellenbosch University
Completed harvests at Glen Carlou, Dornier, AA Badenhorst Family Wines and Stellenzicht
Joined Quoin Rock Winery in 2008 as assistant winemaker and was winemaker there from 2010 until 2014
Having served on the wine-judging panels of South Africa’s Young Wine Show, FNB Sauvignon Blanc Top 10,
Cape Vintners Classification, Blaauwklippen Blending Competition and Veritas Awards,
she has also judged in Spain at the Zarcillo International Wine Competition 2018
Distinction graduate of the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2013
and attended the advanced Wine Judging Academy in 2014
Trophy Wine Show associate judge in 2013, 2014 and 2016, and judge from 2017 to 2021

Michael Fridjhon opened the session and asked for questions from the floor



To hear our recording of Michael's address, and the questions and answers please click here


Attending was a good spread of Media and Wine industry people including winemakers 

The mike was passed to the judge who led the tasting which was the subject of the question

Following the Feedback session, we ventured onto the terrace to taste some of the wines entered
There were some exceptionally good wines so the results are going to be very interesting this year

Salmon canapés topped with herb cottage cheese

Mini bao buns

Blinis with a savoury topping

Another served on a crisp cracker

All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right