Friday, October 11, 2024

Caroline's 2024 White Wine Review

This year's opportunity to taste some of the very best South African White wines
chosen by Caroline Rillema of Caroline's Fine Wine Cellar was held at the DHL Stadium,
a very good venue for rugby matches and wine tastings

The sparkling wines were in a separate room from the main pavilion
Particularly noteworthy were
 Le Lude Cap Classique Madame Brut Nature Milesime 2015
Colmant Cap Classique Blanc de Blanc Reserve NV by Paul Gerber
Graham Beck Pinot Meunier 2022 by Pierre de Klerk
and 
La Bri Sauvage La Bri Cap Classique 2018
All fitted our huge liking for good dry and very crisp Cap Classiques

Chloe Hooker and Nathan Valentine - Villiera Monro Brut 2017

Kalissa de Kock - Colmant Blanc de Blancs Reserve  NV

Michelle Taylor, Mieke Karsten - Graham Beck Pinot Meunièr 2022

Irene le Fleuriot - Sauvage La Bri 2018

Le Lude Madame Brut Nature Millèsime 2015

Carla Pauw - Saltare Brut Reserve NV

Dawie Botha - Antonij Rupert, L'Ormarins Private Cuvée 2016

We then moved on to the Sauvignons Blanc
We have been very interested in tasting the Hasher Family Wines
and it was great to catch up with winemaker Natasha Williams
who has produced their Nauticus Sauvignon Blanc 2023
It is long and dry with the classic nose, a little glycol sweetness, then crisp, green and long flavours
We cannot wait to visit this Hemel and Aarde Farm

Winemaker Natasha Williams



Armand Esterhuizen showed Reyneke Reserve White Sauvignon blanc 2022
It has richness on the nose and palate. It is full of complex flavours, plums, peach, apple, lime and flint
Superb

Michelle Waldeck, a finalist for the accolade of Young Winemaker of the Year 2024,
with Benguela Cove Vinography Sauvignon blanc 2023

Tanya Reynolds showed us Steenberg The Black Swan Sauvignon blanc 2023
It has that classic French style minerality
with clean fruit, a sea breeze with hints of cats pee and gooseberries and lime
Just what Constantia can produce so well

Charles Lourens and Hagen Viljoen with Zevenwacht Z-Collection Sauvignon blanc 2023

On to the three Semillons
 The varietal is only produced in a small number of vineyards in South Africa, mostly in Franschhoek
Until the early 20th Century it was the most widely planted white grape
it is such a great wine with food and it ages so beautifully 

Jeanne Talbot, Emile Gentis with Thor Vintners Lara Semillon 2023
The grapes are from Glenwood in Franschhoek and show that classic lime and lemon with fullness of flavour

Ryan Puttick showed Old Road Wine Company Grande Mère Semillon 2021
This wine is another classic rendition. It is full of joy and deliciousness with long flavours and wood support on the end

Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2021, made by talented Gottfried Mocke
It has an enticing nose that draws you in
On the palate clean, long and delicious complexity, with citrus and lime flavours, Calls for food

Now the white Bordeaux Blends

Caroline Rillema - Celestina Agulhas White 2023 made by Caroline Rillema herself, is another excellent wine
As it's grown in the cool Elim area, it produces classic complexity
An attractive nose, great minerality and depth of flavour, crispness and fullness on the palate

Anzette Visser - Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh 2023 - a classic Bordeaux white from the South Peninsula

Etienne Southey and Justin van Wyk - Constantia Glen TWO 2022
French in style, clean and attractive with crisp long flavours with some added salty minerality

Lynne, catching up with Tinashe Marlvin Gweze and Chef Chris Erasmus
Both Chef Chrisand Marlvin are now working for the Newmark Hotel Group
and are in charge of their food and wine

Jan-Nico Coetzee and Maggie Marais
Delaire Graff White Reserve 2022, made by Morne Vrey

Asiphe Makalisa showing Morgenster Reserve White 2022 made by Matthew Anderson
A 70/30 blend It is another classic, with layer after layer of great crisp fruit and well integrated wood

Asiphe Makalisa and winemaker Matthew Andersen of Morgenster

Joshua Kada and winemaker Elzanne Bosman
Groot Constantia Gouveneurs Reserve White 2022

on ice

Stuart Botha and Mia du Plessis - Tokara Director's Reserve 2021
One of our favourities
Lynne thinks Stuart has managed to create a Constantia white Bordeaux
on the high hillsides of the SImonberg at Tokara with sea breeze, intense flavour, complexity and sophistication
So special

Three Niche varietals were next 

Bevan Newton Johnson with his Albariño 2023
It is spicy with warmth and difference
Some small initial sweetness then crispness, apricots, limes and something tropical add to its complexity and friendliness
It shouts "Feed me"! This is the future if global warming takes over

Dimitri Vermeulen, Daniela Jansen - Saronsberg Viognier 2022
has the required nose and palate of some peach and some smoke, the palate shows more oak

Jessica Saurwein, winemaker - Saurwein Chi (life force) Riesling 2024
At last a beautiful Cape Riesling that zings and with not a hint of terpenes
and Jessica assured Lynne they should never appear
It's the best, crisp and lively, locally made Riesling we have tasted and was so enjoyed

Time for the Chardonnays
 which produced three top wines of the evening for us
The Cap Maritime Chardonnay 2022 from the Hemel and Aarde, made by Gottried Mocke,
has Initial shyness then elegance on the intriguing nose,
just waiting to surprise you with its lovely layers of lime, citrus and stone fruit. Very special 

Nompumelelo Mosaka - Hartenberg The Eleanor Chardonnay 2022
made by winemaker Patrick Ngamane

Richard Kershaw - Clonal Selection Chardonnay 2021
Intriguing ripeness on the nose. On the palate, chalk, lime and tannins, then layers of fruit appear as a surprise
The wine has lots of elegance and complexity. It is everything we expect from Richard




Winemakers Kim Wucherpfennig and Jacobus van Zyl
with winemaker Sjaak Nelson's layered Jordan Timepiece Chardonnay 2023

The wine

Wynand Lategan - Lanzerac Mrs English Chardonnay 2023

Hannes Nel - Lourensford Kleipot Chardonnay 2020
Superb, one of the best of the evening
Matured in amphora, it has produced a really interesting, layered and delicious wine with sophistication and lovely fruit

Winemaker Jacques du Plessis - Oak Valley Groenlandberg Chardonnay 2022
A wine we enjoy immensely and drink often. Another Elgin classic

Andries Burger's Paul Cluver Seven Flags Chardonnay 2022
This is beautiful, crisp and elegant and just what it should be, a classic Elgin Chardonnay

Winemaker Pierre Wahl with his delicious Survivor Cellarmaster Series Chardonnay
Pierre and his colleague Ben Snyman are both finalists for the Diners Club winemaker of the Year with their Chenins


Matthew Copeland and Emile van der Merwe - Vondeling Barrel selection Chardonnay 2023

On to White Blends

The Thelema Sutherland 2022 made by Duncan Clark  is a blend of Viognier and Roussane
It is lovely on the palate; a hot country wine
This is the sort of blend that shows where we are moving to in the future wine world

Rickety Bridge Foundation Stone White 2023  by winemaker Donovan Ackermann
Leafy green on the enchanting nose
Good freshness on the palate with integrated fruit and good body, another food wine

Vamana Roux with Miles Mossop Saskia 2021
It has lost none of its charm on the nose
Opulent fruit opens up on the palate with length, depth and enjoyment

Starke-Condé Field Blend 2023 made by Jaen Lochner

Sommelliers Joseph Dhafana, Marlvin Gweze

And finally the Chenin Blancs 

We really enjoyed the Botanica Mary Delany 2022 by winemaker Ginny Poval
It has a dive-in nose
Fruit is rounded on the palate,  there are layers of it and some integrated wood

Eenzaamheid 2021 by Janno Briers-Louw has a sophisticated nose; it's attractive
Full and rich fruit on the palate. Special and a find for us

Ken Forrester The FMC 2023
This wine never fails to impress as does the high price!
Layers of flavour with ripe and crisp fruit in perfect balance nose and palate. Wood supports but doesnt intervene

Oursula Lenee - KWV The Mentors Chenin blanc 2022
by winemaker Kobus van der Merwe as always, excellence

Spier Farmer Angus Chenin blanc 2021

Kyle Martin with Mullineux Schist Chenin 2023 is a classic made by Andrea Mullineux, not to be missed
Swartland fruit in layers with sophistication and enjoyment

Kiara Scott - Brookdale Old Vine Chenin blanc 2022
is lovely crisp and supple with good fruit and length
Kiara is a finalist for the Diners Club winemaker of the Year with this wine

Richard Duckitt with Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin 2022


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Alto celebrates the centenary of their iconic Alto Rouge red blend

We joined the other guests in the Alto cellar

for a candle lit tasting of the last five vintages of Alto Rouge. We began with the 2017 Perfume of roses and violets, depth and very attractive. Smooth as silk on the palate, good fruit, chalky tannins, long flavours with wood support then full berry fruit on the end  The 2019 had dark berry fruit, plums and some licorice. Velvety , soft and chalky,  berry fruit with plums,  savouriness from the Cab Franc, integrated wood, visible on the end 

Winemaker Bertho van der Westhuizen told the story of the wine
He succeeded his father, Schalk (2000-15), in the position
There have only been five winemakers at Alto in the last 100 years
Rugby Springbok Pieter "Hempies" du Toit (1983-2000) and his father Piet (1959-83) preceded the van der Westhuizens 
Manie Malan, who owned the farm with his father, was winemaker between 1919 and 1959
We tasted the 2020 with roses and violet perfume, shy fruit but classy nose. Lovely silky mouth feel, then sweet and sour berry fruit, layered and chalky. Dark berries and dark wood on the long finish, it gets better and better the more you taste. 
The 2021 is shy initially but recognisabley Alto as you swirl the glass.Then perfume of violets from the 
Petite Verdot. Good fruit on the palate, quite delicous, with warmth and layered with all the component varietals in balance. Length and those characteristic chalky tannins. Food calls. Lynne's favourite of the flight.

Neil Ellis spoke of his experiences with Alto
The 2022 Is inky black, classy with perfume and lovely dark berry and plum fruit and Incense wood. Again a lovely silky mouth feel, Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot are very visible  with good Cabernet support. A superb wine for one so young. Grippy chalky tannins and wood just supporting mean this is one to buy now. THe Shiraz adds spice and flavour.  Ther is a definite linear connection in all these five fine wines, speaks to quality winemaking, determination and history kept going by those who have contributed.

Bennie Howard CWM told more of the story

and was follwed by Johan Malan of Simonsig

The table after the tasting
a moments silence remembering the late Danie van Zyl, Alto viticulturist,
who died suddenly not long before this event. He will be much missed

An on counter display of Alto Shiraz. We got to ttaste some of these with lunch and they were very fine


Three sizes -  Jeroboam, bottle and magnum

Bertho van der Westhuizen with the 5 litre Jeroboam

Traditional canapés on the tables. A selection of artisanal breads served with humus, pesto and butter


Humus, pesto, small meatballs, arancini and a cream herb cheese paté on toast


Alto is exclusively a red wine estate
Chardonnay and MCC from Stellenzicht, also owned by Hans von Staff-Reitzenstein, were there as pre-lunch drinks

Johan Malan and Neil Ellis in discussion with another guest

On the deck, interesting conversations
Louis Strydom, Ernie Els winemaker is in the foreground
Ernie Els Wines is also owned by Herr von Staff-Reizenstein

Adamastor over the Vineyards
Greek Titan Adamastor was said by the Portuguese poet Samoes to be the protector of the route round the Cape
and, lying on his back, is personified in Table Mountain. Devil's Peak is his head

General manager Barend Barnard and Bennie Howard. The Alto red wines we had to taste wer 

The menu

The five winemakers of the last 100 years


Everyone seated for the celebratory lunch

Grilled kingklip in a saffron mussel sauce, with seasonal greens, parsley baby potatoes, a tomato salsa and micro herbs.

The Braised Springbok shank was the most popular dish in the room. and was served with a mustard biltong mash, caramelised baby onions,  small and delicious pumpkin fritters and an Alto Rouge jus

Two large lads with a large bottle
Bertho van der Westhuizen and journalist/publicist Emile Joubert

A winter's end view across the vineyards

Traditional melktert with Rooibos ice cream

Double espresso and a koeksister to end


Magnificent displays of proteas at the cellar door

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