Sunday, May 31, 2015

MENU's Aegean Odyssey. Day 9: Santorini to Naxos

Our last day in Santorini. Lovely early morning light over the vineyards in front of our hotel
Construction vehicles also in front, making a lot of noise and dust. It was Monday, so back to work they go
To be brutally frank, we did not see much of the reported economic downturn in Greece, it looks like a well-functioning clean, middle class country. But there were places where you could not ignore it. This is a new-ish Santorini shopping centre, built in the last couple of years, with not one tenant or, they tell us, any possibility of getting any. And this is the most touristy place we saw
Here comes our ferry
In the queue?
No. Why queue when you can sit in the cafe at the head of the queue and have a beer, a coffee and some free crisps and then join from the front?
ALL ABOARD
We arrived two hours later in Naxos 
and were collected by our “hostess” Katerina
This was our small but adequate en suite room in the Chora with a shared balcony. We even had a small cooking area and a sink in the room
Why do European geraniums look so healthy and flower so well. We can't get them to grow like this in their country of origin. What is the secret?
Lots of lovely nooks and crannies, alleys and doorways in the Chora (the main old town, or village, on Greek islands such as Mykonos, Naxos)
Buy at small shops as you walk through the alleys
And, finally, we came to the sea front. Naxos has a typical Greek seafront with lots of tavernas
A tip: If you want to find your way home again though the labyrinth of alleys, you take photos of the trip down to town. This is one of the small squares we walked through
Our landmark was, of course, a shop selling alcohol
Early evening? No, actually, nearly 9 pm and we were in search of supper
A wonderful spread of seafood. If only we had stopped here and got the Visa out
A fleet of yachts for hire, should you care to sail in the Aegean for a couple of weeks. They do sail in fleets with experienced sailors in the fleet
Choices, choices. Each taverna tries to tempt you in with colourful photographic printed menus. There were some good offers
Sunset over the bay
We chose this one
The half litre jugs of white wine are reasonably priced and drinkable if you are eating. They won't win any awards but are fine with food. We didn't have any sour or ropey white wine. One red was rather acidic
Looking along the seafront while waiting for our four fish platter
Oh hell, always ask lots of questions before you order. The dish we ordered turned out to consist only of minute whitebait, smaller whitebait and larger sardine-sized whitebait, all battered. Lynne loathes fish with crunchy bones and, even worse, uncleaned fish, so John did well. There was some chopped up, uncleaned calamari underneath the fishes and there were a few chips and some salad. There was a plate of some strange yellow rice. The meal cost us €20.60 or about R280
The harbour at night
A small ferry arrives
Watching the world pass by
Time to stroll home. And then the thunder started to roll
The Venetian palace at the top of the hill; our accommodation was right next to it
RETURN TO MENU
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015

MENU's Aegean Odyssey. Day 8: Santorini. The Caldera and the Volcano

We had to be at the old port to board our boat for the tour of the volcanic Hot Springs and the Volcano. It was a treat to see the morning ferry coming in from Athens. The volcano is in the background
A view of bay, with the volcano in the centre, from the top of the caldera. It is just more than 300 metres high at this point
You used to have to climb the hill or take a donkey. Now there is a modern cable car
We arrived at the port to find it was quite a windy day. It reminded us very much of our local South Easter, but we were told it’s the Westerly wind which they have through the summer. Here a lighter is heading towards the cruise liner to pick up passengers
A panoramic shot of the bay
These two-masters are some of the tourist boats that take one to the volcano
One of them setting off
Here comes another boat, ready to dock. We bought packed lunches at one of the small cafes on the dockside to take with us, as we asked and were told that only drinks were available on the boat and we were out from 11 to 3. Lynne bought us the usual cheese, ham and tomato sandwiches with an apple and a bottle of water for €5 each. If you plan well, you can take beers too! Beers cost about €1 in the shops and up to €5 on the boats
The boats head out towards the island past one of the huge liners
Time to take a leap onto the boat - there is strong arm assistance
Ours had a glass bottom, but the water was murky, so you couldn't see much
The skipper, telling the crew on shore what to do
Gulls riding on the wind
A view back to Fira, the main town, on top of the cliffs
Looking back at the old port you can see the cable car in the centre and, on the right, the zig zag road up to the top
It is a town perched gingerly on the top of a huge drop
One of the Thompsons Cruise liners. We saw this one all through the week, once here, then at Naxos and it was in Piraeus when we returned there. And we think we saw it in Istanbul when we were there
A boat dwarfed by the gigantic wall of lava thrown out by the volcano
Two magnificent palaces of the sea
A safe anchorage
Despite the wind, most passengers preferred to sit on the deck
The captain at the helm
Looking back at a view of the road from the new port, superb engineering
We head to the hot springs which are on an adjacent smaller island
You can see them bubbling in brown patches under the water on the edges of the volcano
One man and his boat. We think he is the island’s single occupant, who prefers his own company. Apparently he had a disastrous love affair about 30 years ago and went to the volcano island to live as a hermit, with some chickens and goats
We arrived, as another boat is leaving, at the island called Palea Kameni where there are hot springs on the beach. This small church is the only building on this relatively new island, which has been pushed up from under the sea
Hmmm. If you want to experience them, you have to jump off the boat into 15 degree water and swim to them. Only strong swimmers can make it. It was about 300 meters away
Off go the doggy paddlers. The crew do watch carefully and throw life belts to those who don’t think they can make it. We did wonder why they don't give everyone life jackets to wear, as they do in Hawaii, it might be a lot safer
Here goes an experienced swimmer
And off they set
A goat on the extraordinary landscape
Playing in the muddy hot springs. We watched from the boat. John used his long lens
A soaring gull
Sheltering from the wind
Off to catch something
A view of Santorini, looking back
The changing room in the glass bottom area
A view across to Akrotiri at the end of Santorini as we sail towards Nea Kamini island, the home of the volcano
We had to cross other boats to get ashore. John went but, as the climb was rather steep and long (about 2 Km) Lynne stayed on the boat to nurse her still sore sprained foot
Not a bad way to spend an afternoon on a boat out of the wind. Pity John had my book in his backpack!
The long and dusty road
Higher and higher and better views
This is the dormant crater of the volcano. Not much to look at, but then, who wants to see it bubbling? Seriously?
They blew a ship’s horn when it was time to head back
Boat ready to sail back to Santorini. it was a good day out, we recommend it. Take a hat and sunscreen and a costume if you can swim well
We discovered a wine shop in one of the tourist areas back in Fira ...
...and tasted an indifferent Vinsanto. The ones we tasted did not have the depth and flavour of our local SA muscadels
We did a little exploring of the lanes
This looks like a ritzy villa with a view
Time for a refreshing draft beer
We were considering it
And for dinner tonight...?
We ordered two lamb souvlaki. And received two pork kebabs. Damn. Why is it so hard to get lamb in Greece? 
RETURN TO MENU
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015