Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Durbanville Delights in the heat

We started on Tuesday with a wine tour to four Durbanville farms for our friends from Greece and Johannesburg. We began at De Grendel, always rewarding with its great wines and that superb view of the City, Table Bay and Table Mountain. Then to Durbanville Hills for some Sauvignon Blanc and onward to lunch at Meerendal which, sadly, was a bit disappointing. We ended with a great tasting at Nitida, before heading home for an late afternoon nap and/or dip in a pool as the heat had sapped us all
That magnificent view from De Grendel
We could have tasted on the terrace but, in the heat, the inside venues are more attractive options
For our tasting, we chose to sit in the cool inside tasting lounge, which has the view, and where Douglas gives excellent information. Lynne loved the Op die Berg Chardonnay and the Shiraz so much that she bought both of them for our cellar. The Koetshuis Sauvignon blanc is a masterpiece. They have a very good Viognier, fresh and letting the grape talk, without the heavy barrel influence shown by too many South African Viogniers. We understand that the late Sir David Graaff was influenced by the great Viogniers from Condrieu, and it shows
You can also sit on the verandah and then go downstairs to the restaurant for lunch
In the very modern Durbanville Hills tasting room, also with great air conditioning. They had a special on 2014 Sauvignon Blanc so we picked up a box of 12. In addition to the "standard" sauvignon, we really enjoyed the premium Renosterveld and Biesjeskraal sauvignons. We also liked the Renosterveld Chardonnay, Shiraz and Pinotage
Meerendal Manor house, which is now a hotel
Unfortunately, Lynne had booked the wrong restaurant. The service at the Crown (a franchised restaurant on the estate) was pretty poor. Our young waitress, who was very sweet, had no training whatsoever. We asked for olive oil and she didn't know what it was. It was very hot inside and the single fan was struggling to cope. Air conditioning is far better. We ordered glasses of Meerendal Chardonnay 2008 and Shiraz 2012. The Chardonnay was horribly oxidised and was replaced with the younger, much fresher unwooded version. There was only one other occupied table, but the food took a while and was not at all exciting. Large burgers, but the calamari portions were very mean and overcooked. Lynne had meant to book Carlucci's Bistro, also on the farm, to sit on their terrace, but the only restaurant mentioned on their website is the Crown. Carlucci’s is listed as the deli, which is misleading. We were too hot at the end of lunch to do a tasting

The bill for our lunch, not bad value if the food and service had been better
Bernhard Veller, owner of Nitida. We had a great tasting with Bernhard and his team in their cool tasting room. We enjoyed all the wines but the Coronata Integration white blend, Sauvignon blanc, Semillon and the Calligraphy red blend were all exceptional
Winemaker Danie Keulder (ex Groot Constantia) is very informative about wine and a lot of fun too. We know he is doing very exciting things in the cellar. He is just about to start his second harvest with Nitida. We should have gone to their Cassia restaurant for lunch
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Constantia for the heights

Time for another wine tour, this time to Constantia. High Constantia has great wines and also great bird watching facilities on its deck and in the garden. Our friend Terry is a Twitcher, so it was the obvious place to start
In the small cellar, you can see them readying for harvest
Out on the porch is the perfect place to taste wine and watch the local bird life
We started our tasting with High Constantia's two excellent Sauvignon Blancs, presented by Sannalie
The Silverhurst 2013 and the High Constantia 2014, both fresh and lively
The trees are always full of birds, These are Common wax bills
The pond attracts many birds and the trees are full of feeders
We really liked the High Constantia Merlot 2007. Owner David van Niekerk does not release his wines immediately, so they go on sale ready for drinking. Great if you don't have a cellar but want to drink mature wines
An acrobat squirrel getting his morning drink!
Owner David van Niekerk
Then we were off to Steenberg for a long lunch at Bistro 1682 and an extensive tasting in their tasting room
We appreciated their Disabled Parking sign
This was our first opportunity to taste Executive Chef, Kerry Kilpin's food and it was a very good experience. We will return; we liked her fresh and appealing food very much. And, when it's cooler, we would love to sit outside next to the water features

Steenberg GM John Loubser, very kindly, brought us cold glasses from the tanks of unfermented Robertson chardonnay juice and juice which had been fermenting for a day
The menu. We had nice cold glasses of the Graham Beck Chenin Blanc for John and their Klein Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc for Lynne, both excellent matches for our lunch. Terry, our driver, had a soft drink
Line fish of the day was herb crusted angel fish served with coriander yoghurt, a chickpea and olive ragout, curry oil and tomatoes
Lynne had the crisp and well spiced Calamari as a main course. It was a delight. It is served on avocado and comes with Harissa mayo and is topped with a sweet, crisp sesame tuile
John enjoyed the open steak sandwich, medium rare, with a Chimichurri hollandaise, sundried tomato pesto, crispy onion rings and excellent crispy chips – too good not to succumb to temptation, but he did avoid the bun
After lunch we ventured into the tasting room, where we found GM John Loubser and his colleague Abram Mahlangu
and enjoyed a comprehensive tasting, ably assisted by Jennifer Holmes
We first met Jennifer when she worked at Cape Point Vineyards
The tasting counter is 'crowned' by a mural of white and red glass grapes
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Fish and ships for Sunday lunch

If you haven't yet been to Kalky's on the harbour-side in Kalk Bay, you must visit. It's simple, humble, the tables can be a bit sticky, but Oh, that fresh fish. It has very cheeky, funny staff and it is where most of real SA goes for a seafood treat. We try to take all our visitors there for a visit and they all love it. We finished off the afternoon sipping wine in the lovely gardens of Eagles Nest in Constantia
Kalk Bay is a real fishing harbour, with boats coming and going at all hours of the day and night
Fresh fish are landed and sold on the dock and cleaned and filleted for you. They have assistance in clearing up from the local cormorants
"Oi, old matey, where's my share?"
Just landed were (from the top) a skate, yellowtail, harders (mullet), mackerel and squid
Each 'fleet' has its own coloured paint livery
Rod and line fishing on the dockside is always popular
It can get quite crowded
You will find Kalky's on the right hand side at the end of the dock
Seating inside. You queue to make your choices and pay. The order is numbered and delivered quite quickly to your table
The choices and the very reasonable prices. Crayfish only in season and when available. they also do combos and a huge family platter with Hake, Snoek, Calamari, chips, rolls and a large 2 litre coke for R160, which is what most families come for
Who's got order 146! is bellowed. Lynne's combo of calamari and hake with chips cost R78. This came with sauce tartare and a slice of lemon. You ask for wine glasses and can bring your own wine, but they do have wine and beer for sale as well. There is no corkage charge. Cutlery is plastic and there are condiments on the table: salt, pepper, vinegar and tomato sauce. You can take your own wine glasses and proper cutlery; they wouldn’t mind
The boys had hake and chips at R50 a head
We took a favourite wine, David Finlayson's Honey Shale Hill Chardonnay from Edgebaston in Stellenbosch
Silent scavengers skulk overhead, awaiting opportunity, which often knocks
Our favourite waitress always makes our guests feel special
And there is that special smile, and a lot of amusing banter. She has been doing this for years
Our bill

Dockside entrepreneurs selling sweeties and other local delights like dried sour figs and candy floss
Then we were off to avoid the late afternoon heat in the shade under the trees at Eagle's Nest in Constantia, for a tasting of their wines. It costs R50 per person and we tasted four wines. Brilliant Shiraz and great Sauvignon, but the Viognier has too much wood influence
Lots of families enjoying picnics under the tall pines
The tasting room. It closes at 4.30. Time for a nice drive home on the coast road past Llandudno, Camps Bay and Clifton
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016