Saturday, May 28, 2016

MENU Goes East - Hong Kong, Victoria Peak, Dim Sum

Sunday in Hong Kong. We took one of the old trams
and sat on top. They go at a fair clip in their own lines. Its a good way to see Hong Kong
We got off at the Bank of China building
and walked up the hill through the park. It was Sunday and all the domestic workers had a day off and were picnicking
Old bastion walls among the new, modern Hong Kong buildings
We were on our way to the Peak tram
NOT the place to be on a Sunday morning, we discovered 
The queues were epic and it was hot
It took us about an hour to get to the tram, but once you are in the queue... Sunshades were essential
A dragonfly on the fountain wall enchanted. It was one of the few insects we saw
The fairly orderly queue to get on the tram
When you get to the top of the peak, you are guided to the top of the tallest building and then asked to pay a king's ransom to get onto the roof
We went next door down these many levels 
and had a lovely free view of this beautiful modern, clean city
And looking in the other direction you can see Stanley and some of the many islands
One does wonder how high they will go?  We could solve our housing problems with just a few of these blocks of flats
The very strange architecture of the new Peak building
Inside we found the famous Paris Patisserie, Fauchon
and asked to be allowed to take some pictures of all the delights
Luckily we don't have sweet teeth
Although we could have been swayed by these chocolate temptations
However, you need to be rather wealthy
gooey brownies
bottle-cap sized fruit tarts
We took a bus back down to our hotel. It follows this amazing cliff-hugging road
Some of the architecture leaves you stunned
Time for some food; late Sunday afternoon and a tube ride of three stops 
We found the address of one of the best Dim Sum restaurants in Hong Kong on the Web
Small but busy even at 4pm on a Sunday
Usually you have to queue, but we got a table quickly
 The menu with our selection
Prawn dumplings
Steamed beef balls
Shu mai Pork and prawn dumpling
Cha sui Bao Feather light steamed buns with barbecued pork inside
All served with soy sauce and copious amounts of Puer tea. And a little light chilli sauce if that is to your taste
The lotus wrapped rice we ordered was sold out, so we substituted Fried Turnip cakes.  Our bill was HK116 (R208!) Amazing value
Wandering back to the tube we saw this bargain. Three excellent value t-shirts for John for HK50 (R33 each)
The ships in the roads at sunset, with the one remaining junk, now a tourist boat, and one of the old Kowloon ferries
The sunsets from our hotel were lovely, such soft smoky light
and it got softer as the sun sank
till it turns rosy pink as the light dies
Next episode: 
MENU goes East - Hong Kong, Cheung Chau Island
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016
Subscribe to MENU

Friday, May 27, 2016

MENU goes East - Hong Kong, Cheung Chau Island

We read a lot about them in our newspapers, but have yet to see any in SA. Electric Tesla cars are popular in Hong Kong and one often sees several at a time in the street. The acceleration away from a traffic light is ... electric. And silent
Hong Kong does not only have excellent public transport. It also has great facilities for pedestrians. We took a long walk along this overhead pedestrian walkway
with a view across the harbour to the Convention Centre
past a big wheel - It looks bigger than the V&A wheel
and, at the end of the walkway, reached the ferry terminal at Central Pier
We just made it onto the ferry. Using our Octopus cards (similar to Oyster and Istanbulkart & can be used on all public transport - maybe one day the MyCiti will work the same way) cost us $HK2 each way - about R4; pensioner rate!
The ferry at the pier in Cheung Chau
Thoroughfares are very narrow on the island. Bicycles are very popular and the few motorised vehicles are very narrow
like this
The harbour, filled with large and small boats
fishing or simply watching the water
Junks and more familiar craft
The junks have evolved and one sees very few sails
These pedal trikes are for hire
Western food with a few Chinese influences here
The Black Kite is one of Hong Kong's most familiar birds. One sees them in the air most of the time, searching for food
Pedestrian traffic is quite heavy along the quayside, but one does dodge bikes and the occasional four wheeler
Time for an upgrade?
and it was hot, so we chose a more shaded, quieter route
through the alleys
a relic of colonial times, but it still works
To Tung Wan Beach
This crab was all defensive
and the dogs were playful
This golden retriever kept her owner very busy, throwing her toy into the water for her to fetch
How to hold a shaking dog
Off to find the Catch of the Day
Catch a tan
In 36º heat, thirst quenching became a priority, so we went into this little bar
run by Peter Lee, whose mother is English. He speaks perfect English
It had a wide variety of imported, mostly Belgian, beers
and did a roaring trade in mounds of shaved flavoured ice
and seemed to be popular with the ladies who lunch
but we chose a Tsing Tao, the popular Chinese beer
A banyan tree with its tangle of roots
and the making of a dragon
Joss sticks; all sizes, all aromas
Don't park here, but we're not very busy anyway
Lovely fresh fruit, on ice if necessary
Beautiful plants and good luck ornaments on the door
This house is next to
the Temple
which has some beautiful ceramic decoration
The temple interior
A beautiful moon gate
A shrine inside the temple
protected by fierce warriors
A bell and a gong
The smoke of the joss sticks fills the air with spicy aroma
In the courtyard at the back, a ceremonial fireplace and a small gazebo
and in front, the rather messy remnants of the Cheung Chau Bun Festival, held the previous week
Lots of plastic packaging tape and the occasional rather tired lantern
Then back to the waterfront to see the famed seafood restaurants - not as many as Lynne remembered from her previous visit, twenty years ago, but the fish is alive and waiting to please you: blue crabs
groupers and other unidentified fish
A junk being loaded
with poles
A view over the harbour
with more picturesque junks
and very little activity
Looking into one of the restaurants. Our timing was way off - we would have had to wait for about four hours to be served and that was a bridge too far, sadly
More groupers and, at the back, what looks very much like what we would call a leervis or garrick
and an army of crayfish
whelks
blue crabs
shrimps
cockles
We're not sure, but it could be sea bream
drying squid
and cuttlefish
with more blue crabs, all good to go
Then it was back to the terminal, in time to catch the ferry
with a last look at the boats
no possibility of an outside seat, so a half hour ride in the packed ferry
back to Hong Kong
One of the old ferries which run between Hong Kong and Kowloon
The Underground works very well and comfortably, but you can ride these at no charge
The "Morning Star" ferry arrives at the pier
and back along the walkway to catch the MTR Underground
with views of the city centre in the late afternoon light
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016
Subscribe to MENU