Thursday, September 07, 2017

Visiting Sutherland and the Southern African Astronomical Observatory

We would have liked to have gone to see the stars at night from SAAO at Sutherland, but driving 110 kilometres in the dark there and back from Matjiesfontein was not for us. Another time, we hope to stay in Sutherland and do that tour. The observatory is so high that it has the best view of the skies in South Africa and it is far away from any light pollution

We had booked to do the afternoon tour which costs only R65 and takes place each day. NB pre-booking on line is mandatory. Book online: tours.saao.ac.za. And do be punctual, they will not wait. It is a rather long drive of 110 kilometres, but well worth the trip. As you travel through this unforgiving landscape, you have to wonder about the people who traversed this land in the past. Those who travelled by foot or horse may have been courageous, but when it comes to getting wagons and oxen over these unrelenting valleys and mountains, one has to ask WHY!? Many of them did not know what was over the next rise or have maps. It was indeed a huge trek. Now you have a very good tarred road which dips and winds its way through the hilly landscape
Sutherland is a typical South African Karoo town, nestled in the valley, surrounded by hills and mountains
We stopped off at the grandly named Sutherland Mall and in Die Trommel and bought some presents
There are several tourist restaurants, but all of them closed for lunch on a Tuesday? Perhaps they just get visitors at the weekend. We had a good breakfast at the Lord Milner in Matjiesfontein, so could skip lunch
We also visited the best – and only - butcher in Sutherland and bought some very good lamp and beef. We travel with a small fridge in the car on long trips “just in case”. The hotel was happy to keep the meat in their fridge overnight and we left the next day. The price of lamb in the country is half that in Cape Town and Karoo lamb is legendary; the sheep feed on wild herbs as they graze
The Tourist Centre at SAAO. The observatories are 15 kilometres from Sutherland
Before we left in our cars for the observatories, our tour guide, Francois, took us through the exhibits at the centre; some are interactive
This is a model of the SALT telescope in the Tourist Centre
There are several different observatories, many are owned and run by other countries, often automatically and electronically. These are all optical observatories
The new South African part of the SKA radio telescope will be installed near Carnarvon. The SKA (Square Kilometre Array) project is an international effort to build the world’s largest radio telescope, with a square kilometre (one million square metres) of collecting area. It will be co-located in Africa and in Australia. It will have an unprecedented scope in observations, exceeding the image resolution quality of the Hubble Space Telescope by a factor of 50 times, whilst also having the ability to image huge areas of sky in parallel

First, we visited the Elizabeth Telescope, named after Queen Elizabeth
This is the working "eye" of the telescope but, nowadays, the astronomer sits in a room close by and he operates the telescope by computer
This is its building
The window is open, so something is being studied


Next we went to view SALT
The wind was howling on the top of the mesa at up to 68 Km/h. They cannot operate if it is higher than 60, so they were hoping that it would drop by evening when the stars come out and everywhere is pitch dark
The Southern African Large Telescope SALT uses an array of 91 1-metre hexagonal metres with a maximum diameter of 11 metres. With a light-gathering surface of 77.6 square metres, SALT’s giant mirror array makes it the largest single optical telescope in the southern hemisphere, and one of the largest in the world. The construction phase was completed at the end of 2005 and, from 2006 to 2009, it entered a period of commissioning and performance verification. Since September 2011, observing is now in full swing and the telescope is finally realising its huge potential as Africa’s Giant Eye on the Universe
Onward and up into the Roggeberg Mountains, the air becomes fresher, cleaner and thinner. It is 1800 metres above sea level
A poem by South African Poet Jan Crafford in Afrikaans, seen in the SALT observatory
 Star Mountain
At Star Mountain, there at Sutherland
In the thin white air, from the high wind
They shall find the furthest stars
There above you, my old, Karoo
As we entered the observatory where the huge Salt telescope is sited, Lynne was lucky enough to see it being positioned for the night viewing. It is enormous; the whole room can rotate as can the huge hexagonal mirror, 11 metres across. It is actually made up of 91 individual 1m hexagonal mirrors
From below
It does look rather otherworldly
A distant mesa or kopje
The road down from SAAO
Trees planted to give shade or protection from the wind
Some sheep on the near ground and another kopje on our way back
A small water tank in the middle of the Karoo
A gazanea daisy struggling in the rough ground.
A typical Karoo road
SAAO from below
Back into Sutherland
A ram going to make some sheep happy and more Karoo lamb for us
On the road home, there are just a few farms
and this is a classic water pumping windmill. Water is scarce; they receive very little rain and farmers have to drill deep boreholes to fill their dams

Wednesday, September 06, 2017

Steenberg spring wine launch with lunch at Bistro 1682

We were invited to Steenberg's Bistro Sixteen82 on the first day of Spring to come and celebrate the release of their three new wines, all named after the ships involved in the Battle of Muizenberg: a 2017 Ruby Rosé, The Sphynx 2017 Chardonnay and the 2015 Stately Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz blend, which would be served with lunch. The grapes for these wines come from other areas like Robertson
Our welcome was much enhanced by a glass of Steenberg 2011 Lady R MCC
Caroline van Schalkwyk, Steenberg Marketing Manager, Journalist and wine judge Fiona MacDonald, Natalie Collard of the Wine of the Month Club, Dr Winnie Bowman CWM, and Steenberg Cellarmaster JD Pretorius
JD gets a warm welcome from Winnie
Such a happy day! Prosper Gundura from Norman Goodfellows with Chris du Toit, Graham Beck CEO and Kobie Lochner (marketing for Graham Beck and Steenberg)
A welcome and introduction from Caroline van Schalkwyk
JD with Siobhan Robinson of Wines of South Africa and Chris Taylor, vice-chairman of the Muizenberg Historical Conservation Society, who gave us a lecture about the Battle of Muizenberg in 1795 when the British raided the Cape to try and take control from the Dutch using the Royal Navy ships Stately, Ruby and Sphynx
We begin lunch with the first wine, the 2017 Ruby Rosé, a blend of Shiraz and Cinsaut. It has notes of raspberry, Seville orange and light blackberry
The menu
The Home cured duck was lovely but there was very little of it. Dressed with a dollop of sumac labneh cheese, a creamy raspberry vinaigrette, radish, pine nuts and some tinned or preserved raspberries on mixed leaves
In between courses, we had a slide show history lesson about the Battle of Muizenberg
A beautiful pink protea on each table
Here comes the Steenberg Sphynx Chardonnay 2017, It has a nice nose, white peach and a whiff of smoke and stony minerality. On the palate very ripe peaches, some oxidation with quite heavy wood - it has had 100% new oak contact for 6 weeks and 1/3 has gone through malolactic fermentation, which is evident
JD talks us through the wine making process. They have done these three different wines because customers were always asking why Steenberg didn't have a Rosé, a Chardonnay and a red blend
All the Steenberg staff were wearing lovely spring flower corsages
The Sphynx Chardonnay 2017
This was paired with a tuna and avocado tartare, with cucumber dressing, a citrus gremolata sauce and a chilli saffron mayonnaise, lemon segments and topped with very good tiny crisp curried calamari rings. Lots of different elements on one plate
The Stately 2015, a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Shiraz. creamy with spiced cherries and black olives on the nose, sweet and sour cherries on the palate with some black berry fruit, spice and dark toasted wood
This was served with the main course of beautifully flavourful confit Springbok neck which just fell apart it was so tender. Served on a cream parsnip puree, brocollini, a cassis sauce and a Stately wine jus, and fresh blueberries, which we thought were just too sweet for this complex dish. The Springbok needed to speak for itself.
Pretty colours. For those who think that we of the fourth estate drink copious amounts with these meas, these are glasses which had not been finished after the first two courses
And with dessert, we were served the Steenberg Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, such a nice expression of this varietal. Perfumed with elderflowers, it is crisp and lively and gives a beer like head in the glass. It is full of limes, passion fruit and blueberries, with cassis berries and leaves. Think this might be drunk often this summer
Served with dessert it sang with the lovely passion fruit and lemon tart (would have liked a bigger slice it was so good). The plate was fully dressed with the tart, a smear of Italian meringue, lemon curd, marinated strawberry salad, a red berry syrup, and ball of hibiscus ice cream, mint and pansies
A present for the presenter Chris Taylor
Chef Kerry Gilpin with Caroline
A ship in a bottle was one of the table decorations. We don't have a photograph but many of the staff were dressed in historic naval uniform and looked sensational.
Two media fashionistas: Seth Shezi and Tshepang Molisana