When, in 1993, two young married people
Gary and Kathy Jordan, qualified in wine, geology and economics, took on the
first harvest of a large but fairly undeveloped Stellenbosch wine farm started
by Gary’s father Ted, the future looked a little uncertain. Twenty-five years
later, they have turned it into a huge success. When you hear about the ups and
downs of that journey, you can but admire and respect their hard work. Gary and
Kathy Jordan have always had a passion for what they do and a plan, first for making
excellent wine and then for a future that has included many successful steps
along the way. We were invited to celebrate the anniversary with them and
sample some of the older, more mature Jordan wines over an excellent dinner and
learn more of their journey. It was a really great celebration.
They very
kindly sent buses to collect the guests from several venues in town, so we didn't
have to drink and drive. Our driver got a little lost, so we arrived a bit late
but just in time to join the tasting of vintage wines in the cellar and listen
while they took us back in history to where they have been, grown and where
they are going. As Gary says, "Politics are the only unknown", we
live in a great country with a bright future. Their family founded the Jordan
shoe company in Wellington in 1896 and originally called it the Wellington Boot
factory! Both his great, great grandfather and great grandfather were Mayors in
Wellington. Father Ted Jordan bought the farm in 1985 and began planting vines
and trees. The first harvest in 1993 produced 108 tons and the cellar was
completed. "The Luck of the Jordans", Ted says. They didn't have a
lab; they used the farm's kitchen. And Gary had a major health scare at the
time, which meant that Kathy had to do much of the harvest, but they got
through. They have mentored many local and overseas winemakers over the years
who have trained with them or come to help with harvests
Welcomed
by Gary and Young Winemaker of the Year Wade Roger-Lund with a glass of the MCC Blanc de Blanc Chardonnay which won Wade the title
Lots of familiar
trade, media and wine people were invited
The new
Jordan Sauvignon Blanc is called Cold Fact after a track from Sugar Man's LP
A place at
the tasting for Alan Mullins with Dave Hughes next to him
The team:
Sjaak Nelson, Gary, Kathy, Wade and, in the background, Jacques Steyn CWM, now
CEO of Jordan
Happy to
toast us with a glass of the 1995 Chardonnay, still full of golden fruit, with
just a little mellow maturity, nice elegance and soft wood notes. Lovely crisp
acids at the fore, then cooked apples and some wood roundness at the end
The wines
are poured, let the tasting commence
They took
us through some Jordan history first with a few slides
The
momentous day when a mining claim was found attached to their mostly unused back
gate. It had been put there on behalf of one of our nefarious politicians. It
took Gary many months away from the farm to fight this for Jordan and then to
help other farms in the Cape and in Mpumalanga to reject the spurious claims on
farms which did not have anything worth mining. It would have destroyed the
vineyards. And from this came three award winning wines: the Outlier Sauvignon
Blanc, the Prospector Shiraz and The Long Fuse Cabernet Sauvignon
In 2009
they opened High Timber restaurant on the Thames in the City of London. It is still
going and still a success. It was originally an abandoned warehouse which they
renovated. It is a venue at which people can drink top South African wines and
eat good food. Top Chef George Jardine opened his restaurant on Jordan in 2009
and is still one of our top chefs. And four years ago, they opened The Bakery. They
have turned the former workers’ accommodation into luxury accommodation for
visitors who want to stay in the winelands. They bought houses off the farm for
their staff and gave them the title deeds. They have also given them driving
licences and a pick up to bring the staff to the farm each day. Recently, they
started Nine Yards Travel agency which offers expert advice on where to stay
and what to see in the winelands region, luxury accommodation in tranquil
surroundings, reliable transport, and day tours for inbound winemakers and
tourists. Kathy has also started the Women in Wine initiative which Jancis
Robinson promoted
And then
the future; they have recently bought a property in Kent, Southern England called
Mouse Hill, dating from the 14th Century. There is a 14th Century Oast house
for hops and they are planting Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines and will wait
for global warming to kick in. The soils are cretaceous limestone, perfect for
Bubbly. On the Stellenbosch farm, vineyards are being replaced; they say it is
time to go back in and put some money into the vineyards and look at vines more
suited to dry conditions with our changing weather patterns here
Time to start
tasting. Two Barrel Fermented Chardonnays from 2007. One on cork which was shy
on the nose with lemon and limes and length on the palate; wood showed more as
the wine opened up. The other, under screw cap, had a very good Chardonnay nose
with nice rich fruit and freshness and many people preferred this to the corked
version. Then the Nine Yards 2010 Chardonnay which has beautiful minerality and
wood on the nose, layers of flavour and excitement; this is how all South
African Chardonnays should be. The 2015 Nine Yards has smoke, buttery golden
intenseness, initially shyer, then fruit and wood appear and rise to the
surface. The wood on the end adds structure. Apples limes, rich melon and cape
gooseberry on the palate with a long finish
Then it
was time for the five red wines. The 1993 Cabernet from a 5 litre bottle had
balsamic notes first then, when swirled, spicy cassis and cherries hits you on
the chin; Umami, salty character with a bit of liquorice wood on the long end.
The 1995 Cabernet was from a magnum. Umami nose, very sophisticated French in
style. Dark wood, dark cherries and berries with some cassis leaves. Very
satisfying, with a little Ribena on the end. The 2001 Cobblers Hill is similar
on the nose to the 95 Cabernet, with Bovril hints and French in style. Such
superb fruit on the palate; almost a Rumtopf melange of fruit, not clouded by
any other flavours, but rich fruit. The wood is there supporting and there is
some salty liquorice. The Cobblers Hill 2010 is a cassis driven wine with
incense French oak. Sweet fruit, silky and velvety with some cassis leaves and
fruit acid on the end with some chalky tannins. Still has time to go. The Cape
Winemakers Guild wine Sophia 2013 is a different barrel selection of Cabernet,
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Incense wood, minerality liquorice, rhubarb, cassis
berries and leaves. An interesting wine with much future potential. Cassis
strengthens as you taste, a really, really great expression of a Cabernet,
Merlot and Cab Franc blend
And then it was time to walk to the restaurant
for dinner. An early evening view of the Stellenbosch mountains over the dam and
the valley beyond
Seated at
round tables. it was very gemütlich
We began with the delicious bread
selection which came with aioli and tapenade
The chefs
were just finishing off plates of the starter
The menu
We began with the 2012 Nine Yards Chardonnay,
full of ripe pears and pine nuts on the nose, lime and pears on the palate. a
very attractive wine to go with food..
The 2013 compared very well, both went
superbly with the starter
The
starter of Asparagus and Mushrooms, a combination that worked unexpectedly
well. The plate had a base of mushroom purée topped with al dente fresh green
asparagus spears, torn buffalo mozzarella, grilled shitake mushrooms, a sweet
onion purée and topped with hot rocket
sprouts and crisp nutty crumbs
CEO Jacques
Steyn told us a funny story of the night Gary came back late from a function
and found Kathy sleeping with all their border collies on the bed. "Where
am I supposed to sleep?" he asked. "Don't make me choose" said Kathy..
they are rather fond of their dogs. He told us Gary is now chief cook and
bottle washer on the farm and he also has an 8 year vineyard replanting project.
There is always introspection and reflection at anniversaries. Now they have
their first MCC which has already won winemaker Wade Roger-Lund this year's Young Winemaker of the
Year award. The commercial release of Sophia (previously reserved for the CWG Auction) is happening. They contribute to
over 100 wine households in the Cape Winelands. Sjaak has been with the farm
since 1999 and his byword is consistency. The younger generation knows where
the farm is going. There is passion and enthusiasm in the Jordan brand . Every
team member is valued for their contribution. Terroir is so important to the
Jordan brand, the spirit of Gary and Kathy's mentorship helps to grow the
consistency and quality
The red wine
for the main course was the Cobbler’s Hill 2009 Incense wood and dark red and black
berries on the nose and palate with some freshness on the end
The main
course of rare Springbok loin which had been hung for a while. It had a grassy
flavour. On a lovely smooth celeriac purée with red wine poached pears,
hazelnut butter, baby turnip and some meat jus. And then there was the kale, which
we wish chefs would leave to the cattle. It is not worth eating, hard, glassy
and difficult to chew and digest. It did not spoil the good dish, we simply
pushed it aside. Healthy it may be but nice it is not. Spinach is so much
better
Jacques
chatting to Michael Fridjhon and John Platter. John and Erica came from Durban especially
for the party
And then
there were those duck fat chips! Oh and some lettuce. But it was all about the
chips. And damn it, we had to share. There were no fisticuffs at our table,
although there might have been a bit of pinching ....
Our fellow
travellers and table companions. Alison and Athol Rice from Hout Bay celebrating
getting their tweet out
A happy
and smiling Dave Hughes enjoying the evening
Next came
the cheese course with a selection of local cheeses from the restaurants'
cheese room, served with preserved green figs
Sjaak
Nelson and Yegas Naidoo with a beautifully dusty 5 litre bottle of 2013 Cobbler’s
Hill
Not easy
to pour from a bottle this big
Gary with
their local wine distributor John Collins and Carrie Adams from Norman
Goodfellows in Johannesburg
Enjoying
the evening were Winnie Bowman CWM, Journalist Greg Landman and Yegas Naidoo of
Miles for Style
Dessert
was served with Jordan Mellifera Natural Sweet 2013. An Assiette of summer
peach, grilled peaches, peach jelly, vanilla microwave sponge and a white chocolate
ice cream with crumbs
And then
it was time to say resounding thank you and good night to all and catch our bus
back to Cape Town. We so enjoyed the celebration and hope we’ll be around for
the next one in a few years time!
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
