Friday, September 07, 2018

This Week’s MENU. SA Young Wine Awards, John Collins Trade tasting, ABSA Cape Blend Awards, Duncan Savage's new Vintages, Chenin Blanc Top 10, Onion Flan, Villiera 2016 Monro Merlot

Watching the winter waves

We wish all our Jewish friends everything of the best 
for Rosh Hashanah and well over The Fast

We don’t want this to become a habit. So many stories to tell and an invitation to dinner on Thursday night means a delay in sending out MENU to our subscribers. Especially when we have Telkom here  disconnecting our internet while they upgrade our phone connection. Fibre connection is not far away. Thank you to those of you who wrote to us last week to say that they don’t mind if we are late, just as long as we send MENU to you. So here it is and we hope that you’ll find the articles interesting. Thank you for your patience and we hope you’ll enjoy the stories…

The South African Young Wine Awards
were presented in the Stellenbosch Town Hall this year. It is the oldest wine competition in the world having been started in 1833. It is always interesting to taste these wines in their very raw state and so, during the afternoon, preceding the award gala, we were invited to a hall at The Markotter Sports Centre at the Paul Roos Gymnasium in Stellenbosch to taste the finalists. It can be quite heavy going as most of these are tank samples not yet ready for bottling. The judges must be able to see where a wine might go and what it might become at this early stage. You need a lot of experience in the industry to do this….

The Annual Trade tasting of John Collins’ list of wines,
held at a favourite venue, Den Anker restaurant in the V&A Waterfront. It was a superb evening of good wines, John represents a very good list of producers….

This year’s Absa Cape Blend Competition Awards,
run by the Pinotage Association, were presented at a lunch at Lanzerac in Stellenbosch. We were invited to taste the top 10 finalists first and then, at lunch, the trophies for the top 5 winners were presented and certificates were presented to the remaining five finalists. A Cape Blend has to contain a minimum of 30% and no more than 70% Pinotage, the other grapes can be any the farms select, which makes this competition very interesting. The event was held in Lanzerac's very smart Cellar Hall….

The launch of Duncan Savage's new Vintages     
It’s his 6th vintage release and we dropped in for a taste of them. Duncan already had several trade and media people there when we arrived and the "open door" policy meant the crowd kept changing. It was more formal the following day, when people could make appointments, with a limit on the number of guests. The cellar is not large. Duncan ably kept up the pace giving different people tastings at the same time with great explanations….

The annual Chenin Blanc Association Top 10 Challenge Awards
were presented at Ellerman House in their spectacular wine cellar. The challenge drew 113 wooded and 46 unwooded entries, all tasted blind by the five-member panel, with 27 wines shortlisted for the final top ten line-up. To quote Ken Forrester, chairman of the Chenin Blanc Association: "Chenin Blanc has come of age. The versatility of Chenin, its diversity of wine styles and its great food-friendliness, all point towards its rising acceptance among local consumers. This is in line with the growing international interest in the grape, increasingly seen abroad as South Africa’s calling card”. South Africa has more Chenin Blanc under vine….

On the MENU this week. Onion Flan    
For a prettier photograph, Lynne scattered a sprinkling of rosemary flowers and thyme

Lynne needed something good to eat for our Wine Club meeting this week, but didn’t have any time to go to the supermarket, it has been so hectic. So it had to be from the store cupboard. There was a roll of cheese and herb pastry in the freezer, she had cream from Sunday lunch. We always have eggs and lots of onions. So this was easy and quick. See the whole recipe here

MENU’S Wine of the Week. Villiera 2016 Monro Merlot    
We tasted this again at a very special dinner with the Grier family which we will write about next week and it so impressed us, that it has to be our Wine of the Week. South Africa is not known for its Merlots, we grow many in the wrong areas, we often pick the grapes too early and the wines can be tough and harsh. But when they are made carefully and well they are just beautiful. It is said to be a feminine grape and a wine that women prefer. We think this will impress both sexes.  Monro is their Prestige reserve wine label. More….
7th September 2018

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© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2018
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Phones: +27 21 439 3169 / 083 229 1172 / 083 656 4169

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Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. This electronic journal has been sent to you because you have personally subscribed to it or because someone you know has asked us to send it to you or forwarded it to you themselves. Addresses given to us will not be divulged to any person or organisation. We collect them only for our own promotional purposes. If you wish to be added to our mailing list, please click here to send us a message and if you wish to be removed from our mailing list

On the MENU this week. Onion Flan


Lynne needed something good to eat for our Wine Club meeting this week, but didn’t have any time to go to the supermarket, it has been so hectic. So it had to be from the store cupboard. There was a roll of cheese and herb pastry in the freezer, she had cream from Sunday lunch. We always have eggs and lots of onions. So this was easy and quick
Roll the pastry out when defrosted and cover the base of a greased 21/22 cm quiche/flan tin. Crimp the edges and keep in the fridge while you make the filling
1 roll of shop bought shortcrust pastry - 4 large onions, peeled and sliced – 50g butter – 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh - a grating or 2 of nutmeg – sea salt and pepper – 2 eggs – 275ml cream
Melt the butter in a large heavy bottomed pan. Add the onions and a liberal pinch of salt. Gently cook the onions, covered with a greaseproof paper cartouche, until they are quite soft and golden brown, stirring gently once or twice to prevent them sticking – do NOT fry them. They will caramelise in their own juices and be quite sweet and begin to break up. This will take about half an hour. Taste and then season with black pepper, nutmeg and more salt if necessary. Mix the eggs with the cream and beat them gently. Cool the onions, remove the cartouche and the bay leaf, then stir in the egg mixture. Pour into the pastry, place on a baking sheet and bake in a hot oven at 200ÂșC for 30 minutes. It should still have a little wobble in the centre. Serve hot or cold with a crisp green salad

To make a cartouche. Cut a square of greaseproof paper that will cover your pan surface. Fold it in half, then again and then again, and again till you have a sharp wedge of paper. Put the tip in the centre of the pan and tear off the wide edge so that it comes just over the edge of the pan. Open it up and you will have a circle that fits loosely over the onions in the pan. You don’t need to push it down, just so that it keeps the moisture in the onions

MENU’S Wine of the Week. Villiera 2016 Monro Merlot


We tasted this again at a very special dinner with the Grier family which we will write about next week, and it so impressed us that it has to be our Wine of the Week. South Africa is not known for its Merlots; we grow many in the wrong areas, we often pick the grapes too early and the wines can be tough and harsh. But when they are made carefully and well, they are just beautiful. It is said to be a feminine grape and a wine that women prefer. We think this will impress both sexes.  Monro is their Prestige reserve wine label
Made by Jeff Grier, the wine so reminded us of good St Emilion, lots of black cherries and incense wood, with minerality and elegance. Richness is their signature on red wines; this is lovely velvety, berry wine with good integrated wood, ripe cherries and cassis berries, milk chocolate and not a single hint of greenness. Long deep flavours of red plums follow with a little salty liquorice and some nice chalky tannins. This wine calls out for food
Around R200 on the farm

The release of the new vintage of Savage Wines

An invitation to the launch of Duncan Savage's new Vintages at the home of Savage Wines in Salt River last week. It’s his 6th vintage release and we dropped in for a taste of them
Duncan already had several trade and media people there when we arrived and the "open door" policy meant that the crowd kept changing. It was more formal the following day when people could make appointments, with a limit on the number of guests. The cellar is not large. Duncan ably kept up the pace giving different people tastings at the same time with great explanations
We do like the wines coming out of these foudres
He is also using ceramic eggs and conventional French oak barrels
This will be released next year
Can’t wait to taste this
or this
The grapes from Malgas are impressive
Another original from the Savage Surfer
He is very passionate about his wine and the making of it
We began with the Dry White 2017 which is complex and yeasty; 49% Sauvignon Blanc, 33% Semillon, 18% Chenin Blanc. Barrel fermented in old oak, there is sweet fruit, perfume and some linseed on the nose; Lynne swears she can smell the Semillon. Silky sweet ripe fruit, then good grape acidity to back it up, long flavours, rich cooked apple with crumble on the end and some soft chalk. This went through malo and leaves the mouth nicely coated with lanolin from the Semillon
Never Been Asked to Dance is 100% Chenin Blanc, a promiscuous grape that has been with a lot of wine makers says Duncan. Parisian perfume, musky wood, violets and blossom on the nose then smoky braai wood and hint of bacon. An elegant nose with sweet golden fruit on the palate and some good acid and grip. NOT a fur coat and no knickers wine. Classy
The Barrel Cellar
Next we tasted 2017 Follow the Line. 93% Cinsault 7% Syrah from a small block of 36 plus years old bush vines in Darling. Rosehips on the nose, rather pinot like as Cinsault can be, minerality and elegance; the Syrah adds the spice and colour. Lovely clean berry fruit and chalky tannins. Watch this one soar
The Thief in the Night 2017 is 48% Grenache based with 46% Cinsault, 6% Syrah added. Green herbs and tea on the nose with light whiffs of mulberry. On the palate, sweet berry fruit, red currents, strawberries; delicious. The Girl Next Door 2017. 100% Syrah, from a 12 year old wind battered vineyard which overlooks the Atlantic ocean. Light and herbaceous with some lees and a salty breeze on the nose; some rhubarb and cherry perfume as the wine opens in the glass. An elegant wine; lovely fruit, chalky tannins, built to last; black and red cherries, rhubarb, pepper, the fruit begins lighter and then gains weight

Are We There Yet? 2017 50% Touriga Nacional, 50% Syrah which were co-fermented. The grapes come from David Trafford’s Malgas vineyards. Pretty with violets, dark berries and brioche on the nose. Silky soft, rich beautiful fruit, velvety and creamy with nice chalky tannins; a wine to enjoy which will last

The last was his Savage Red 2015. 76% Syrah, 9% Cinsault, 9% Touriga Nacional, 6% Grenache. Clean and lean fruit on the nose; some richness, dark berries, blueberries and plums. Lovely mouthfeel, with lots of fruit, some juicy acids, rhubarb, raspberry and lots of red plums make this a lovely wine. Yes to aging this, but so tempting to drink now

We entered and exited through the machine room where you can see the bottling line,
the sorting table and lots of activity in the packaging area, so good to see
and those large oak barrels

John Collins Wines Annual Trade Tasting at Den Anker Restaurant & Bar, V&A Waterfront

Time for the Annual Trade tasting of John Collins' list of wines,
held at a favourite venue, Den Anker restaurant in the V&A Waterfront
Emma Bruwer with Le Lude MCC Bubblies. They have such wonderful quality
Pouring wines on the Springfield stand
The Springfield MĂ©thode Ancienne Cabernet Sauvignon
and on ice the MĂ©thode Ancienne Chardonnay and the Wild Yeast Chardonnay; both different, both very good wines. And their 2015 Pinot Noir. Abrie Bruwer doesn't make it every vintage, but when he does, it is usually very special

The newly released Life From Stone Sauvignon Blanc and their other Sauvignon Blanc, the Special Cuvée are always interesting to taste at this early stage. Each year, they vie for position as to which is the best. And this can change during the year. We love them both. Miss Lucy is the blend of Pinot Gris, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, a good white blend
The canapés were hot, very plentiful and delicious. These were bitterballen on good mustard
Bevan Newton Johnson with their range of excellent wines from the Hemel and Aarde Valley. The Pinot Noirs are so impressive; The Newton Johnson family will have their Windandsea Pinot in the Cape Winemakers Guild Auction this month. And the Chardonnays are really impressing us this year
Huge headless prawns were consumed in numbers by Lynne; one of her favourite things
Chef Pieter van Wyk tasting some of the Jordan wines with other members of the industry
Aimee Beaumont of Wine Cellar has some Cold Fact Sauvignon Blanc poured for her
by Marcha Cooke on the Jordan stand. They also have an impressive range
Jordan Marketing Manager Thea van der Merwe
with The Long Fuse Cabernet Sauvignon,
something new from this successful farm
Den Anker is a Belgian Restaurant and this is one of their top specialities, mussels
Izette du Plessis, Portfolio Manager at Liquidity,
and Ellerman House Sommelier Melusi Magodhi
enjoying the evening
Sommelier partners Isabella Immenkamp and Joakim Hansi Blackadder, aka Kimi. He is this year’s South African Gaggenau Sommelier and Ambassador and will represent us in the International Gaggenau Sommeliers’ competition in China in October. Isabella is restaurant manager at Glenelly Estate's The Vine Bistro in Stellenbosch
John Collins himself, chatting to Chris Keet while they taste Chris's 2013 First Verse
Chris has always made phenomenal wines, this is another. You really need to taste it, soon
It is a classic Bordeaux blend of blend of 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 12% Petit Verdot and 6% Malbec
David Sonnenberg of Diemersfontein with Jan van Huyssteen of Rickety Bridge
It was a superb evening of good wines. John represents a very good list of wine producers
We left as evening fell; the V&A Waterfront started to light up and the rain began to fall
RETURN TO MENU

2018 Chenin Blanc Top 10 Challenge

The annual Chenin Blanc Association Top 10 Challenge Awards were presented in the spectacular wine cellar at Ellerman House. The challenge drew 113 wooded and 46 unwooded entries, all tasted blind by the five member panel, with 27 wines shortlisted for the final top ten line-up

To quote Ken Forrester, chairman of the Chenin Blanc Association: "Chenin Blanc has come of age. The versatility of Chenin, its diversity of wine styles and its great food-friendliness, all point towards its rising acceptance among local consumers. This is in line with the growing international interest in the grape, increasingly seen abroad as South Africa’s calling card”. South Africa has more Chenin Blanc under vine than any other country in the world
What else could do the welcome so well but the
Sparkle Horse Brut Chenin Blanc MCC from Ken Forrester
 Michelle Stewart and Associate judge Spencer Fondaumiere,
Group Operations Manager and Sommelier; Burrata, Bocca and Open Door Restaurants
Media colleagues Jon Meinking and Clifford Roberts
 Jeff Grier of Villiera, Dirk van Zyl and Danie de Waal of De Morgenzon
We were offered some canapés. These were sweet raspberry macarons, rather surprisingly filled with smoked salmon. An odd sensation
A plate of the canapés on offer. Nothing was what it seemed on the surface
The crisp, crumbed belly of pork on the left was topped with what tasted like mackerel mousse
The chef mixed many sweet and fishy flavours with the savoury expectation
Not universally popular, probably very trendy. Media are rarely that adventurous
 Ellerman House Sommelier Melusi Magodhi
 Jeff Grier, Vice Chairman of the Chenin Blanc Association
 Renee and Jean Daneel from JD Wines in Napier
We stood to listen to the awards of the Top 10
The Chenin Blanc Association told us in a video that UK wine consultant Simon Field MW, a specialist on wines from the Loire in France, where Chenin originates and the only foreign judge on the panel, was impressed with the line-up of what he called very polished, palatable and professional wines and their multiplicity of expression. “A definitively South African Chenin style was apparent to me - riper, more fruit-forward and floral, with qualities of nectarine and other yellow fruit, some beeswax and honey. The whole experience gave me a fascinating new perspective on Chenin” 
Craig Polkinghorne, Head: Business and Commercial Banking at Standard Bank Group,
who sponsor the awards, reiterated their commitment to Chenin and the wine industry
The aroma wheel of Chenin Blanc, in all its diverse iterations
Fruit for the winning wines was sourced from as far afield as the Cederberg, Stellenbosch including Bottelary and Faure, Darling, Elgin, Durbanville, the Swartland - specifically Voor-Paardeberg, Perdeberg, Malmesbury - Tygerberg, Slanghoek, Wellington and Bot River
Cathy van Zyl MW, the chairman of the judges, said that the winning wines were largely, but not exclusively, sourced from older vineyards. “While one of the winners comes from 12-year old vines, the others come from vines that are older than 27 years. Indeed, the oldest vineyard in the line-up is 65-years’ old”. The judges were Cathy van Zyl MW (chair), Richard Kershaw MW, James Pietersen (Wine Cellar), Tinashe Nyamudoka (Test Kitchen), Simon Field MW (UK) and Associate judge Spencer Fondaumiere as an observer
The 2018 top 10 winners were
Cederberg Private Cellar Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2016
DeMorgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc 2017
Jean Daneel Wines Signature Chenin Blanc 2016 (debut)
Leopard’s Leap Culinaria Chenin Blanc 2016
Mulderbosch Vineyards Chenin Blanc Steen op Hout 2017 (debut)
Slanghoek Wynkelder Legends Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2016 (debut)
Spier Wines 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2017
Stellenrust ‘53’ Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2017
Wellington Wines La Cave Chenin Blanc 2016 (debut)
Wildekrans Barrel Select Chenin Blanc Reserve 2017 (debut)
Here the winners are with their awards
 Cathy van Zyl told us, “While one of the winners comes from 12-year old vines, the others come from vines that are older than 27 years. Indeed, the oldest vineyard in the line-up is 65-years’ old.” The wines are all wooded and they are magnificent in their class and deservedly top Chenin Blancs. The prices range from R70 to R375, an average of R200 a bottle. But we did miss the fresh unwooded wines, which are very popular and also sell so well

Winemaker Carl van der Merwe's signature is on this beautiful rounded Chenin, with minerality and elegance, apple blossom on the complex nose. Oak wood, butter, then crisp limes, lemon, and nectarine, it has depth and length and dry with minerality and some chalk, ending in fine wood. R375
Wildekrans 2017 Barrel Selection. Honey and orange marmalade, floral with orange blossom on the nose. Honey notes, round, crisp lemon freshness, nectarines & long lush flavours. R228
La Cave 2016 from Wellington Winery has a round grassy nose, with flinty smoke. On the palate, richness, fullness, baked apple, marmalade bitterness that is wood, with minerality and another hint of wood smoke on the end. R100
Stellenrust 2017 Barrel Fermented. Grassy and floral, with melon, apple, pineapple and litchi with gentle wood, the latter supporting but present. R200
Spier 21 Gables 2017 in a top line up yet again. Golden Chenin nose, grassy with soft smoke. Good fruit acidity, then lots of wood flavours from light to dark, fruit follows with intense quince and juicy white pears 
Slanghoek Wynkelder Legends Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2016 (debut) has tropical notes on the nose and lime and apricots with butterscotch wood on the full palate.
Mulderbosch Steen op Hout Chenin Blanc 2017 (debut) is a very popular wine. Brandy wood, dry grass, apricots and cooked apple with minerality on the nose, wood and apples, lemon & limes, wood and minerality echo on the palate. It has a long finish and is very satisfying
Leopard’s Leap Culinaria Chenin Blanc 2016. Shy with smoky grass and passion fruit on the nose; 9 months in 500 litre barrels. Exciting entry, rich zingy fruit, nicely rounded, apples, pears, peaches; a good acid and fruit balance. Dark toasted wood right at the end
Jean Daneel Wines Signature Chenin Blanc 2016 (debut), Made by Jean Daneel's son, Jean-Pierre. Father has guided him well; this is a lovely wine in the family tradition. Elegant minerality and hints of sea breezes on the nose. Rich dark caramel fruit, stewed apple, more caramel wood. The fruit is vying with the wood to come to the fore and the wine ends with limes and lemons and flinty smoke
Ellerman House Sommelier Melusi Magodhi and Pieter du Toit of Cederberg Private Cellar. Cederberg Private Cellar Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2016 has a lovely apple blossom nose, with apples and pears dominating the full palate and just gentle wooding supporting this good wine
Spier has featured amongst the Top Ten every year since the inception of the challenge in 2014 and DeMorgenzon, every year since 2015. Stellenrust has been in the line-up every year since 2014, with the exception of 2016. This year marks the third time Leopard’s Leap has appeared