Friday, August 18, 2023

Lunch at Eike, Stellenbosch

 Chef Bertus Basson has always produced exciting and unusual food in his restaurants,
so we were very keen to go to his new Eike restaurant in Stellenbosch
An invitation from the Stellenbosch Wine Tourism board fulfilled that wish
The restaurant is at 47 Dorp Street. One does not, however, enter from the front
There is a small alley next to the restaurant and you drive through that to find a good parking area
(finding street parking in popular central Stellenbosch is not easy)

The rear of 47 Dorp Street. It is not the restaurant

 which is behind this rather hidden, inconspicuous entrance which has no signage

The interior shows the wonderful old building off well, with its yellowwood ceiling and the open kitchen at one end

The current seasonal menu
If you are allergic to anything, do let them know when you book; they are very happy to oblige

The three "Happies" (small bites) were excellent
L to R: Onion Jolly Jammer is a take on a Jammy Dodger sweet biscuit but much better
Two small crisp sablé biscuits filled with flavourful cream cheese and a dab of onion jam in the centre
The partnership of crunch and flavour was such fun

Next a small souttert (savoury tart) filled with powdered biltong and topped with Huguenot cheese
The more we experience this cheese we see how good it is and how much it adds to food

The Jamestown Daltjie is a tiny crisp deep fried Chilli bite

Our solution as to what to drink with a menu as varied as this is a light crisp Rosé
The Rainbow's End Cabernet Franc Blanc de Noir fitted the bill well

The bread course arrived next with crisp crunchy crusted mini loaf of Potbread,
a life changing dip of chicken schmaltz with fermented fruity garlic honey, dotted with tiny pieces of crisp chicken skin
We refused to give it back and kept adding it to other dishes
The dish of pickled beetroot, carrot and fresh baby radishes was also much appreciated
A nice touch which we have also had when in France

Now we were primed for the First Course of Potato and Leek soup, topped with a perfect poached egg
with the yolk runny and able to be incorporated into the soup
Small potato croutons, onion ash and a green sorrel oil all added to the complexity of the dish

A close-up of that poached egg

The restaurant has some very good features that would help them toward a Michelin star, if we had them in South Africa
The handles on the backs of the comfortable upholstered armchairs,
the small table for handbags or camera bags which is supplied to each table
Service was impeccable, responsive and friendly
Thanks to Manager Piet Pretorius, who takes care of all the customer needs, and our waitress Busi Mqumbisa
We were also thrilled when Bertus' wife Mareli, who runs the business, came to say hello
and then Chef Daniel Oosthuizen came to chat to us at the end of service
He is quite young to be in charge of a restaurant, obviously competent after the food he served us, and adventurous
He was well trained at the CIA, has an impressive resumé and, no doubt, will go far
And thank you Bertus for inviting us! We loved it

Some homely kitchen touches at the other end of the restaurant

The Second Course had an ingredient we have not had before, a thin slice of air-dried Yellowtail fish,
not quite bokkoms (salted, air-dried fish) and not quite fish biltong
 It was served atop a slice of tender barbequed salted belly of pork and set in a mild Butter curry sauce
and topped with daikon radish and turnips and spinach leaves

Third Course was a choice
Lynne chose the really satisfying Lamb from Frankie Fenner's butchery, rolled and beautifully braised,
so tender and well-seasoned
  Topped with tiny lambs' kidneys (a favourite of Lynne's who regrets that we don't see them very often),
accompanied by a Jerusalem artichoke purée and topped with tiny deep-fried slices of that excellent vegetable,
also rarely found, and baby nasturtium leaves

We were also served one of the side dishes, the (Not) Slap chips, Maldon salt (and malt vinegar, which we passed on)
They are actually rosti, formed into chip shapes and deep fried till crisp

John chose the fish, braaied Kabeljou, mussels and fish soup,
with courgettes, fennel and dune spinach wrapped around the plate, much enjoyed

Then a Savoury. Shaved, frilled and petalled creamy and intense Dalewood Huguenot cheese
on a slice of pear with cream and macadamia nuts
One to copy even if we don't get the presentation right

And, to finish, dessert. We must admit that, while the dishes are small, we were feeling very replete
It changed John's entire lifelong opinion of guavas
Deseeded, peeled and poached gently in orange, in a guava consommé, topped with a guava sorbet
and an excellent, sweet, crisp Sablé biscuit and served with a rich vanilla-redolent Crème Anglaise
Heavenly, and we don't often do desserts
A tour de force of excellent, interesting food moments; a big experience

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Monday, August 14, 2023

A walking tour of Stellenbosch with Johan Nepgen

 Johan Nepgen is a tour guide in Stellenbosch. He takes you on walks in this historic and very beautiful University town
and knows all the interesting and intriguing stories that bring the city to life
We were lucky enough to be invited to do a tour of the art, photography and history
when we visited Stellenbosch for their festival 

The city is filled with superb sculptures by well-known artists
We began the tour opposite our hotel Coopmanshuis in Church Street;
these were on the opposite pavement. Buck in flight, not named, but possibly Vincent da Silva

We loved the Sprinting Hare
"The Race is on, Ever sprinting, Never there" 
by sculptor Stephen Rautenbach

and his Kraken

Goddess. That beastly North Westerly Wind. Bronze. Also by Stephen Rautenbach

We peered into the window of a showroom further up the street filled with many scuptures

There are many very large format photographs displayed about the town. 

Some from international photographers


Stellenbosch Library Cat, sitting outside the Stellenbosch Library

Time for a break

A tribute to President Nelson Mandela in Mandela Square by renowned landscape artist Strijdom van der Merwe

De Nieuwe Molen (The New Mill) water wheel, which dates back to 1749

and this oak in Mill Street which is almost a national monument, it is so old and large
The Checkers building was built by OK Bazaars in the 1950s
The Stellenbosch Council would not allow them to take out the tree,
so they had to make a hole in the parapet to accommodate it

and in Dorp street we visited an art exhibition in GUS Gallery
Housed in the old Lutheran Church, the beautiful historic façade is in complete contrast to the displays inside
It is an off-campus extension of the University of Stellenbosch’s Visual Arts department,
where practice-based research artists and students display their works

On display was some modern jewellery

In a shop window, a bronze of one of our endangered wild dogs, which we are concerned for and love

The famous Heuer Pianos shop in Stellenbosch, a mecca for musicians and music students

and another nod to South African history, "OLD MAC - Digging For Happiness",
a tribute to South Africa's mining legacy. Madge and George Lang created the figure in 1956

The houses in Dorp Street were all re-numbered when the tidy British were in charge
but the city has kept the original numbers, incorporated as tiles in the pavement

The stump of a huge oak tree is still there,
incorporated into the terrace of this historic house at 162 Dorp Street which is now part of the Stellenbosch Hotel

It must have been a very large oak

Some street advertising for the hotel. Signs have to conform with the strict standards imposed in Dorp Street
It is the second oldest road in the country, and it and its buildings are national monuments
The authorities in this popular university town have always been very concerned with preservation of its character

Dorp Street has one of the longest rows of surviving old buildings of any major town in southern Africa
It is filled with historic houses from different periods, from Cape Dutch to Georgian and Victorian
Most are national monuments and are protected
The channel of water, known as the Lywater, mill stream releases water at prearranged periods for different areas
so that people can access the water for irrigation. It also helps to clear the gutters

 Saxenhof was formerly known as Neethling House. In 1889 the house was sold to Dr. Johannes Henoch Neethling,
who, shortly after, converted the old single-storey house into a charming Georgian style double-storey house. 

Many Seventeenth Century buildings went through "updating" conversions in the subsequent centuries,
before strict standards were applied

At the top of Church Street is the historic N.G. Moederkerk (Dutch Reformed Mother church)
This congregation was founded in 1686

The Seminary, now the Faculty of Theology at Stellenbosch University

In the Seminary gardens, a statue of John Murray and N.J. Hofmeyer,
two major religious figures in the life of Stellenbosch and South Africa

The tallest tree in Stellenbosch is in the garden; it's a Norfolk Pine planted in the grounds of The Seminary

The facade of Hofmeyer Hall in Dorp Street, now a conference centre


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Sunday, August 13, 2023

Overnight at Coopmanhuijs, Stellenbosch

We stayed overnight at the historic five-star Coopmanhuijs Hotel in Stellenbosch for part of their recent wine festival
We were sponsored by Stellenbosch Wine Tourism
How do you park in central Stellenbosch? Thankfully, they have valet parking

The lounge area

The bar

Helena's Restaurant, where we had dinner (see separate story), is part of Coopmanshuijs
It has a beautiful traditional yellowwood ceiling and, on a high gallery shelf,
an impressive collection of traditional and aged confit pots
Flocked wallpaper and an impressive modern chandelier

Tables outside near the pool area and breakfast dining room, for a warm morning

Our room, No. 7, had a small balcony overlooking the swimming pool

Very tastefully decorated bedroom and modern bathroom

A lovely gift of Stellenbosch goodies awaited us. 

and a bottle of Neil Joubert Chenin Blanc was quickly sampled

A little too chilly to sit outside and admire that beautiful tree, possibly Melaleuca bracteata, "Johannesburg Gold"

Breakfast is held in Helena's restaurant dining room extension
and you can have a tempting buffet breakfast or a cooked one

We knew we were going to have a day filled with wine and food,
so started very fresh with fruit, juice and for John some muesli and a freshly-baked scone

Lynne had the Eggs Florentine with smoked salmon and a good Hollandaise sauce.

John had a plain omelette with bacon and finished with the scone with very good coffee and marmalade

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