Friday, February 21, 2025

A day trip to Kalk Bay and Constantia

Our Dutch friends Péter and Yvonne have returned for their annual stay at the Cape
so we decided, as the weather is so perfect, to have a jaunt to the other side of the Peninsula
and headed to Kalk Bay for some lunch at one of our favourite restaurants, Kalky's on the quayside

A view over False Bay from the Muizenberg end, taken from Boyes Drive


and so, on to Kalk Bay

Some of the boats were loading up to go fishing, others were arriving with their catch

and you can buy superb fresh fish on the quayside, which they will fillet for you if you wish
We saw fresh and smoked Snoek, Silvers, and pink fish, which we think were Carpenter, on sale



There were lots of flecked fish hanging in rows on the quayside
They had been deboned and soaked in salt water and then hung out to dry briefly, then frozen. These were snoek
It's done to preserve them and they are a real Cape favourite to cook on the Braai (barbeque)

The outside tables are mostly in the shade and we were lucky to get one reasonably quickly
Kalky's on the pier is a famous institution serving the best Fish and Chips and other sea food
It's not smart; because it is so popular, it takes time to get an outside table and your food, which comes freshly cooked 

You decide what you want, queue, place your order and receive a receipt with your number
It is delivered to your table when ready. Keep your ears open for the waitress calling out the numbers

They have rules! They don't sell alcohol but are happy for you to bring your own with no corkage
We take our wine in a cold box and our own wine glasses as the alternative is styrofoam cups
And, yes, the fish and the seafood are that good, so worth the effort

And in a world that is fast becoming cashless, that is all they take. But they do have an ATM inside the restaurant!
And, thankfully, NO smoking

If you can't get an outside table, there are plenty inside

Crayfish and chips on special at R150. Not very much meat on the crayfish, but enough to enjoy this superb crustacean
When we were kids growing up, it was so plentiful and cheap
Sadly, now almost poached out around our coast even though the waters are a protected no catch zone

Calamari, hake and chips - an enormous  special at R125

Groote Post SeaSalter
a perfect companion to seafood

Kalk Bay pier

Then replete with food, we ventured to Buitenverwachting in Constantia, so busy with this year's fantastic harvest
We had a lovely relaxed tasting in the cool tasting room. Some glorious wines and the purchase of a bottle or two
Elated to get the award winning 1769 Muscat de Frontignan, it sells out fast

It won the Best Dessert Wine Trophy at the 2024 Investec Trophy Wine Show,
and we agree that it is the best Constantia wine of its kind and it is also the least expensive
Their Sauvignon Blanc is very special this year, full and layered, a classic expression of the grape and delicious, so some was purchased
The blend of Sauvignon Blanc and 11% of Chardonnay also really impressed
The Christine 2017 is a really high end Bordeaux blend which really sang to us
Expensive French oak shows as incense on the nose, smooth layers of a beautifully made wine filled with dark berries,
some umami and a little spice, impressive
As always we and all the other visitors were superbly looked after by Shantall Ball,
who runs the Buitenverwachting tasting facility, and her staff 

A surpise was to catch up with Danie Keulder, Groot Constantia cellarmaster
He had come to swap bottles of Sauvignon blanc, needed for a tasting

The back of Danie's 2025 harvest T shirt

The gable of the Buitenverwachting manor house peeking through the trees

A striped brown hawk moth (theretra cajus) on a camellia plant at our home
We see the huge green caterpillars with painted on eyes each year in our garden and then, later in summer, the moth

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Monday, December 23, 2024

A day with history in Dublin

We ended our trip with a few days in Ireland with very good friends of John's
Liam and Elaine Murphy live in Kildare and had been inviting us to come for years, so we decided it was time
John and Liam met when they lived in Johannesburg
and the two of them did some mad rallying with Volvo in their late 20s - the stories are epic!
John had been given a choice of where to go to, as Lynne had been several times to Dublin and Ireland
His choice was a historic monastery in the country or a visit to Dublin
He chose Dublin as he said "its unlikely we will ever get here again" but who knows... The Irish are very hospitable
So we caught the train

Lamp, post, crow and lichen - Ireland is very green and rather damp

Liam

St Brigid's Cathedral in Kildare and its Round Toweviewed from the station

At the train station
Ireland has something good other countries need to copy
All local public transport travel for pensioners is free and each one can take a companion for the day!

Local train arriving

Liam and Elaine, our very generous hosts

The Guinness brewery, opposite the railway station in Dublin

Henry Street getting into the Christmas spirit

A shopping arcade, at the rear of the historic General Post Office

The Spire of Dublin, alternatively titled the Monument of Light (Irish: An Túr Solais),
is a 120 metre tall stainless steel, pin-like monument, located on the site of the former Nelson's Pillar
on O'Connell Street, the main thoroughfare of Dublin

The General Post Office (Irish: Ard-Oifig an Phoist) is the former headquarters of An Post — the Irish Post Office
It remains its registered office and the principal post office of Dublin
and is situated in the centre of O'Connell Street, the city's main thoroughfare
It is one of Ireland's most famous buildings,
not least because it served as the headquarters of the leaders of the Easter Rising against British rule in Ireland
It was the last great Georgian public building to be erected in the capital

O'Connell Street is wide and spacious with trams and buses

A bronze replica of The Proclamation of the Republic (Irish: Forógra na Poblachta),
also known as the 1916 Proclamation or the Easter Proclamation during the Easter Rising in Ireland,
which began on 24th April 1916

The interior of the General Post Office

Cuchulainn

Busy streets, we are headed for the University

Good to see the SA flag on this legendary pub

 Memorial to Daniel O’Connell (1775—1847) in O'Connell Street
He was a lawyer who became the first great 19th Century Irish nationalist leader
and, like all statued politicians, a resting place for pigeons

The River Liffey from the O'Connell Bridge

The first Parliament of Southern Ireland buildingthe premises of the Bank of Ireland 

Another view of the same building

Some more historic buildings, simply because John liked the conical roof

The entrance to Trinity College, Dublin's University

The modern Trinity College Library

The Book of Kells in the Old Library is an illuminated medieval religious manuscript
Written in Latin, it contains the four Gospels of the New Testament
and would have been crafted by the Celtic monks in the Columban monastery on Iona, in circa 800

Nowadays, you do a tour of the rooms and get to see replicas of some the pages with explanations
You can also do a free tour with headphones

An enlargement of the text above

About Oghams system of writing

Incredible detail and true art

The created Alphabet 

And some of the decorated words in the script

Some are a bit strange and difficult to work out...

The Long Room in the Old Library
The library is ancient and the books are being catalogued, restored and renovated to preserve them 

One of the many busts in the Long Room - William Shakespeare

The vaulted ceiling

The animated globe, apparently showing the current weather round the world

The Proclamation of the Republic (Irish: Forógra na Poblachta),
also known as the 1916 Proclamation or the Easter Proclamation,
was a document issued by the Irish Volunteers and the Irish Citizen Army during the April 1916 Easter Rising in Ireland

The Old Library is an invaluable depository of old books

The Brian Boru harp, the oldest surviving Irish harp, is the model for the insignia of Ireland. 
Traditionally, but mistakenly, linked with Brian Boru, high king of Ireland who was killed in 1014 at the Battle of Clontarf
(now in the suburbs of Dublin), it probably dates from the later middle ages. 
Made from willow and oak, with 29 brass strings (originally 30),
its elaborate designs, silver neck mount and embedded crystal suggest that it belonged to a master musician,
such as would have played for the noble households of Gaelic Ireland and Scotland. 
It was restored and re-strung in 1961. 
Coming to light in Limerick in the eighteenth century,
it was presented to Trinity College Dublin by William Burton Conyngham (1733-96)

One of the busts of eminent women, all have recently been added to the room
Rosalind Elsie Franklin (1920-58)
Since her early death at the age of 37, Rosalind Franklin has become mythologised as the victim of male prejudice,
the unsung heroine who took the crucial X-ray photograph enabling James Watson and Francis Crick
to build their double helix model of DNA, and was unjustly deprived of a Nobel Prize
She would neither have recognised nor endorsed this description
Franklin regarded herself first and foremost not as a woman, but as a scientist,
and her DNA research occupied a relatively brief period in her successful career working on a variety of topics
In particular, on top of her famous investigations into DNA,
she also made foundational contributions to modern understandings of coal, graphite and viruses

Another part of the university

Elaine Murphy coming out of the museum shop

Variegated plane leaves showing autumn colours

Off to see more of Dublin

Environmental protestors outside the Dáil Éireann (Parliament)
We were happy to offer them some moral support

Dáil Éireann (Assembly of Ireland) is the lower house and principal chamber of the Oireachtas (Irish legislature),
which also includes the president of Ireland and a senate called Seanad Éireann
The Prime Minister's Irish title is Taoiseach

Entrance to The National Museum of Ireland

The Gold Collection
The collection of prehistoric goldwork ranges in date between 2200 BC and 500 BC
Most are pieces of jewellery but the precise function of some is unknown
During the Early Bronze Age the principal gold products were made from sheet gold,
and include sundiscs and the crescentic gold collars called lunulae

Used to close a cloak

Impressive neck adornments

The remains of a Viking boat from about AD 800

The Ardagh Chalice
This silver chalice, found at Reerasta, Ardagh, Co. Limerick is one of the greatest treasures of the early Irish Church
It is part of a hoard of objects found in the 19th century by a young man digging for potatoes near Ardagh, Co. Limerick
It was used for dispensing Eucharistic wine during the celebration of Mass
The form of the chalice recalls late Roman tableware, but the method of construction is Irish

The Tara Brooch is an Irish Celtic brooch, dated to the late 7th or early 8th century
It is of the pseudo-penannular type (with a fully closed head or hoop), and made from bronze, silver and gold
Its head consists of an intricately decorated circular ring, and overall, its front and reverse sides are equally decorated
Each holds around 50 inserted cast panels packed with filigree
The brooch was constructed from numerous individually made pieces
All of the borders and its terminals contain multiple panels
holding multi-coloured studs, interlace patterns, filigree, and Celtic spirals
The brooch is widely considered the most complex and ornate of its kind
and would have been commissioned as a fastener for the cloak of a high-ranking cleric
or as ceremonial insignia of high office for a High King of Ireland

Entrance to The National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology

High fashion

When we could walk no more, and we did about 5 miles, it was time for a late lunch at The Duke
on historic Duke street, it takes its title from the little street named after the 2nd Duke of Grafton
and has been providing liquid refreshment and sustenance to the people of Dublin since 1822

We were lucky to get a table, it's a very historic and popular pub

Gin with tiny bottles of tonic; you need two if you want a long drink

We were encouraged by Liam (Murphy but no relation!) to try this dark stout instead of a Guinness
and we must say we enjoyed it very much and would certainly order it again if it appears

Spicy and crisp Nachos with all the trimmings

Spicy chicken wings

A toastie with chips

All these bars have a huge selection of beers and alcohols

Lynne's watch with the total so far. We still had to get back to the tram and train... 
She thinks that is a miserable trade off of calories!
It takes a lot of energy if you walk that far with a bad hip

The footsteps of author James Joyce and his dog, preserved in bronze on a pavement in O'Connell Street

Swans on the Liffey

So serene

Politics is everywhere - rush hour traffic

Catching a tram to the Railway station was quite a squeeze,
little Lynne nearly got left behind and really had to push to get on

and a train back to Kildare

at rush hour. The ladies found seats, the men stood
Thanks to polite young people who recognise exhausted age .... What a wonderful day

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