On Tuesday, we at last managed to book this historic
tour. You meet at the church that gives Kerk Straat its name. Built for the
population after the arrival of the Rev. Arnoldus Mauritius Meiring in 1743, it
turned a sleepy hollow into a town. The minister had the presence of mind to
sell off land in Church Street to wealthy people and soon a vibrant community
was in occupation, attracting business and people to the town. In 1969, Tulbagh
suffered a devastating earthquake (6.3 on the Richter scale) which destroyed
many of the houses and seriously damaged others. Thanks to the Fagan brothers,
architects and builders, much of this was restored and Church Street is now the
jewel of the town. You can walk the length of the street with a guide and hear
the history of the town
The church is
now a museum filled with interesting antiques
One of our
guides, Henrilene Links, who works for the tourist board
Jason Clark,
who owns an accommodation establishment in the street, is the main guide and is
training Henrilene to take some of the pressure off himself
The scallop
and frog gable
Peaceful
Church Street
It's a lovely
gentle walk of about an hour and a half, learning about the street and Tulbagh
A sleepy local
bandit, one of the Readers Restaurant cats
A view of the
mountains behind Tulbagh. So many of these houses were damaged or destroyed. It
is a triumph of reconstruction
Looking back towards the church
Many of the
houses are museums, some are privately owned, some are bed and breakfasts, this
is a health clinic
The house that
was the famous Paddagang restaurant. It is now a Belgian café
A beautiful
example of Cape Dutch gabled architecture
This is a
museum
Some are
restaurants
In the middle
of the road, there is now an organic kitchen garden project which is open to
the public to come and pick their own vegetables. Much of this produce
currently goes to the Neighbourhood market in the Waterfront, held every
Saturday. Jason was so inspired by the gardens at Babylonstoren wine farm that he
started this for the people of Tulbagh. We went back the following day and
picked ourselves a bunch of asparagus, which we had for supper on Thursday
night. It was superb and the prices are very good
Jason runs
this Guest House, which is opposite the house in which he lives when he is in
Tulbagh
The hillside
was covered in carpets of white spring daisies
The garden is
laid out in a geometric pattern and they have lots of plans to expand and plant
different crops
Inside one of
the historic houses is a colourful shop selling local handicrafts
This historic
very early photograph, taken in the 1860s, shows what the town looked like in
the mid 19th Century. It was used to reconstruct the buildings
damaged or destroyed in the 1969 earthquake
Several of the
houses are now museums which you can visit. Sadly, they were closed when we did
our walk on the public holiday. We returned on Wednesday morning but, other
than the Tourist board offices, most were still closed. We did have a very
quick tour of the old church
The interior of the church, still with its pulpit
and choir stalls can be used for weddings and other functions
The curator of the Church, Annelien Fredericks,
kindly showed us around and played this Symphonium for us. They have many extra
discs for more tunes
There is some magnificent old Cape Dutch furniture
And a very old interesting map of the Cape in the
18th century
A beautiful drum table, on which Governor Sir Lord
Charles Somerset signed the document declaring the Cape a British colony in
1805
© John & Lynne
Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016
No comments:
Post a Comment