Another competition from WineMag.co.za. This time
with sponsors Prescient and some great local Chardonnays achieved very high
marks. There were 11 wines scoring 93 to 95 this year and we tasted them at The
Stack in the Gardens. During the disastrous ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) years
Chardonnay became popular worldwide and our winemakers, embracing the challenge,
planted it. Sadly many, who had not worked with this noble grape before, gave
it far too much new wood contact and put many South Africans off drinking it;
it was a tough ride for the industry. But times have changed, much more
experience has been gained and we now have much success with different styles
appearing. Sales are growing and the wine is being enjoyed. It is also winning
many accolades from top judges here and worldwide. We can and do grow and make
superb Chardonnay
We do find that the three judges prefer quite a
linear, leaner style and they did introduce a French Chardonnay into the blind
tasting, which we find rather contentious as we cannot produce this style very
often and, maybe, we should be lauding and producing wine which speaks to our
own climate and terroirs? There were some excellent Chardonnays for tasting.
This noble grape, made famous in the Burgundy area of France, has been grown in
South African since the 1980s and plantings total 7% of the national vineyard
Making a statement!?
Swopping stories over a beer
were Jonathan Snashall, Miles Mossop, André Morgenthal and Christian Eedes
We were all enjoying some MCC
bubbles on the terrace before the awards
Lourensford winemaker Hannes Nel
Rose Jordaan of Bartinney Wines
And then it was time for the
awards. The top wines were as follows:
95
Delaire Graff Banghoek Reserve. 2016 Price: R200. Perfume of golden flowers and
fruit, honeysuckle and ripe peach, both on nose and palate, with limes and
granadilla, wood just in the background and fresh on the finish
Eikendal 2016. Price: R163. Fresh with fennel on the nose,
crisp and fresh acidity in layers, heady and enjoyable
Rustenberg Stellenbosch 2016. Price: R175. Golden Chardonnay nose, so
enticing. Sweet fruit in layers nicely balanced. Wood just hinting with caramel
and smoke
94
Dabar 2016. Price: R97. From Napier grapes. smoky soft fruitm smooth and sliky on the palate with apples, greengages and a fresh ending
Dabar 2016. Price: R97. From Napier grapes. smoky soft fruitm smooth and sliky on the palate with apples, greengages and a fresh ending
93
Evidence 2016. (Sophie & Julien Schaal) Price: R250. Restrained on the nose, familiar, herbal and fresh
Evidence 2016. (Sophie & Julien Schaal) Price: R250. Restrained on the nose, familiar, herbal and fresh
Hartenberg The Eleanor 2015. Price: R325. Shy on the nose with vanilla
wood. This is the style of Chardonnay we want to drink Golden fruit, buttery,
freshness with a tingle on the end. Made for food
93
Holden Manz Barrel Fermented 2016. Price: R225. Perfumed, waxy on the nose, good fruit on the palate initially then wood takes over
Holden Manz Barrel Fermented 2016. Price: R225. Perfumed, waxy on the nose, good fruit on the palate initially then wood takes over
Longridge Organic 2015. Price: R165. Perfumed, a charming entry,
layers of fruit and wood, caramel apple and limes with a long finish on a woody
end.
Paul Cluver Seven Flags 2016. Price: R550. Pure delight, buttery and floral,
layers of fruit apple, peaches pineapple with such length. Wood supports not
overwhelming.
Tokara Reserve Collection
Stellenbosch 2016. Price: R180.
Cigar smoke on the nose, Greengage apple and lime on the good palate, freshness
on the end
Uva Mira 2016. Price: TBC. Smoky, rounded complete with pears
and apples on the nose, butter, lemon and limes with a very fresh finish
There were also
some canapés served. Smoked salmon
Beef tartare
Roast beef with horseradish
Small
bitterballen and also some arancini balls
Jacqueline Lahoud
announced the winners who all received certificates
Morné Vrey of Delaire
with judge James Pietersen
Craig Mockford,
CEO of Prescient, said that this was their third year as sponsors of this
competition, which is in its 7th year. There were 91 wines in the line up and
42 scored 90 or more, which is impressive
Paying attention
Christian Eedes told
us that this was the first time the competition was open to all, and not by
invitation, as it was previously. And not capped at 60 wines. There was an entry
fee of R450 per wine. It is extraordinary how wide the selection is, from light
to powerful wines. Producers need to be careful of the wines at these edges,
the big wines were not rewarded. The styles are reductive vs oxidative. A
little burnt match and steel on reductive is good, but wines should not be pinched
on the palate. Oxidative characteristics of apple, honey and nuts are also not
rewarded, as the judges find them to be more like Chenin in style. The judges
were blown away by the quality, the variation in style and the improvement in
the vintages, which just continue to get better
Achim and Hildegard
von Arnim of Haute Cabrière. Their wine, Haute Cabrière Reserve 2016,priced at
R190, scored a creditable 90 points
Rose having fun
after the award announcements
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
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