Simonsig Estate was recently crowned
top producer at the 16th Amorim Cap Classique Challenge. Last week, we were invited to a tasting of older vintages from Simonsig’s range of Cap
Classiques, hosted by cellarmaster Johan Malan. This was followed by lunch at
Aubergine restaurant with a paired menu to match these excellent wines. They
were innovative pairings by Chef Patron Harald Bresselschmidt, who is one of the
most skilled at this difficult art
The line up of wines we were to taste
Johan Malan chats to journalist Graham
Howe
The
table laid for the tasting
Restaurant
manager Catherine Poole welcomes Allan Mullins and Richard, Allan's driver and
aide
Drinks outside on the terrace first
Jacques
Jordaan, Simonsig's Sales and Marketing manager, spoke first. Simonsig's
success is a tribute to Johan and his late father, Frans, who made South Africa's first Champagne method sparkling wine. Jacques will be travelling
worldwide North, West and East next year to New York, Moscow and Shanghai to
promote the wines
Johan
Malan told us that his son Michael Frans has joined as a wine maker in the last
week. He has been working at Creation for the last three years
Jacques and Johan, with their new Social Media manager Chantal Esau in the background
We
began with the 1999 Kaapse Vonkel Brut, degorged in 2016. There are only 100
bottles left of this in the Vinoteque. Bready and yeasty, rich and mature with
richness on the palate still dry and crisp with stewed apple notes. Interestingly
this has 4.7% of Pinotage added 13 years and 8 months on the lees. Incredible
A
nice touch, not water biscuits or cream crackers but shards of flat bread to
cleanse the palate
Next
was the outstanding 2005 Kaapse Vonkel with extended cork contact; bottled
2005, degorged 2007. Sea Salt and sea mist on the nose, crisp sparkling mousse,
also initially with sea salt flavours. Crisp and elegant. Gout Anglaise
maturity, so good apple crumble flavours. Lynne’s favourite of the tasting with
18.5 points. The 2005 recently degorged came next, softer on the nose with some
herbal notes; it was less full on the palate with nice apple sorbet flavours
MCC
Winemaker Hannes Meyer, who has been with Simonsig for 9 years, took us through
this tasting. Then came the Kaapse Vonkel 2013. Biscuity on the nose and a
little sea mist. Citrus crisp, then apple, long on the palate, and slightly
sweeter. Will age well. This has no Pinot Meunier
Next
the 2015. Granny Smith apple on the nose, and some red apple too, with a lovely
mousse. This wine is a poem to apple on the palate. To come and to be bought.
18 points
Time to taste four vintages of the Cuvée
Royale. First the 2005; 96% Chardonnay, 4% Pinot Noir. Rich and full, brandy
and brulée with hot rolls and butter on the nose. A crisp mousse, almost
cutting. Long flavours of apple sorbet with a little mint, creaminess turns the
sorbet into apple ice cream
Ralph
Reynolds, Sommelier at Aubergine, with our next vintage of Cuvée Royale 2010 (100% Chardonnay). It had 4
years on the lees, 3 on cork. Ciabatta bread baking nose, yeasty and savoury. Crisp
zingy apple flavours, both cooked and raw grated, this MCC is still fresh and
young and attractive. 18 points
Hannes
pours us the next two vintages (100% Chardonnay) 2011 nutty and showing its
age; 5 years on lees, and the 2012, 5 years on the lees, no wood and no
malolactic fermentation. A hint of herbal buchu on the nose, with long apple
sorbet flavours on the palate; a wine that really sparkles, fresh and fun
Time
for lunch after the splendid tasting of Simonsig MCCs. Jacques introduced Aubergine’s
Chef Patron, Harald Bresselschmidt
Chef
Harald runs through the four course menu with us, which will be paired with two
of the current MCCs we have just tasted, plus the Pinot Noir Brut Rosé 2015 and
the Demi Sec 2015
The
menu
Ocean
caught and flavoured Kabeljou, marinated and cooked sous vide on a nettle and
green apple purée matched the 2015 so completely, echoing all its flavours
Diane
Malan, Johan's wife, who is the support of the family
The
next course of Calf’s liver, pink in the centre, so seldom served, so much
appreciated by us, on new season tender broad beans, with breadcrumbs and lemon
glazed white grapes. Served with the Cuvée Royale 2012
Then
came tender Quail breasts filled with mousseline, with a prawn reduction,
pistachio nuts and a cherry-quinoa dressing which went so well with the Pinot
Noir Brut Rosé 2015, our favourite Cape Brut Rosé
And, with the dessert of an Ivory chocolate dome with a soft MCC centre, an almond
streusel and angelica ice cream with a white flower espuma. Perfectly matched
with the Kaapse Vonkel Demi Sec MCC 2015
The
Simonsig team had to have a photo with Allan Mullins, as his Simonsig MCC for
Woolworths was also lauded in this year's Amorim Cap Classique Awards. It was a
great occasion
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
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