Cape Wine Master Marius Malan makes his Malanot
Wines on Summerhill estate in Stellenbosch from bought in grapes (he also makes
their wine). We were given an opportunity to meet him and taste his wines this
week at a very good venue in Salt River
Table Seven is not a
conventional restaurant. They do event catering, a chef’s table, chef cooking
demonstrations, consulting, wedding catering, and private chef work. From the
impressive food we were served, we can recommend Chef Luke Wonnacott and his
wife Kate. He is obviously classically trained and very experienced. This is
the inside of the venue with a long table set for the event
Then it was time to get to know
Marius Malan and Malanot wines. Here are the white wines on ice
We began with
the Sauvignon Blanc, which has classic green pepper notes and is crisp with
some tropical flavours on the palate
Here preparing some perfect
duck rillettes which came with contrasting pickles on a small toast
Could not get
enough of these. Such a favourite with us and so rarely served in South Africa
The function was ably organised
by Celia Galloway
We can supply her details should you need someone to
organise an event for you, here or elsewhere
The second canapé was a fish paté
topped with gherkins and thick mayonnaise
Salmon on a crisp cracker,
topped with shredded daikon radish and avocado
The
last canapé was a perfect mini warm & crisp pastry tart tatin topped
with pine nuts
Flavours of apple, caramel, pastry and savoury, all in one
mouthful
The Malanot Chenin label is embossed
on white paper, so it is difficult to photograph. This was the 2017 Asiel Chenin Blanc
served with the starter. (Asiel means Created by God). Only 900 bottles are
made, all numbered. Unusually it has about 5 or 10% of whole bunches (grapes,
stalks, skins and pips) put into the barrel for fermentation and left while the
wine ages, Marius says they are very difficult to remove afterwards, but they
make a huge difference to the wine. The 2014 spent 14 months in barrel. It has
a rich, complex nose, with ripe apricots and loquats. This follows through on
the palate with the addition of cooked apple and some wood
The table is one slice of a huge tree trunk from the Congo. The table setting was rather
informal
In fact, we were not sure which glasses, cutlery or side plates were
ours, but we sorted it out
Each guest was given a bottle of Asiel to take home
Marius Malan explained his
wines and their making to the group
He says he makes "quality boutique
wines, naturally crafted to perfection!"
The arm injury is due to a
recent mountain bike accident; he is an aficionado, but pays for it
Marius
graduated from Elsenberg and told us the wine name comes from Malan, his family
name,
and Genot - meaning “pleasure” in Afrikaans
He says his winemaking
philosophy is to apply minimal interference in the natural wine making process.
He is an individualist. He likes to pick his soils, their aspects, varietals
and clones. He uses healthy fruit that shows its terroir and uses healthy older
barrels. His focus is on the fruit and he uses spontaneous fermentation; no
bought yeast is used, and he uses stabilisation only in his white wines. He
wants integrity in his wines
Time for the starter which was
an olive oil poached salmon; tender, falling into perfect flakes with great
flavour, this was served with orange and grapefruit segments which added a
flash of good acidity, a mild horseradish cream and some crisp daikon and red
radish slices, with fronds of dill. Delicious
The next wine was the Malanot
Chardonnay. The grapes come from Franschhoek and Elgin. He used 10% new oak for
four months, then batonage so that the wine is not overly oaked. It has 5 stars
in Platter and scored 93 points at the Prescient Chardonnay Report. It has a
wax cap to the capsule. Gentle on the nose, a typical elegant Chardonnay with
notes of citrus, grapefruit, minerality and light smoke. On the palate, it is
smooth, crisp, then zingy with lots of lemon, grapefruit. minerality and long
flavours. We like the way he thinks about wine, how he makes it and we do like
the wines
The Chardonnay was served with
the main course of perfectly cooked confit lamb shoulder topped with slices of
pink lamb loin, a spring vegetable nage which consisted of artichoke,
asparagus, courgette, new peas, broad beans and a saffron caramel jus. It was a
joy to eat. The Chardonnay went perfectly with this great dish, blowing the
myth that red meat needs red wine. And you don’t need a starch when the food is
this satisfying
Chef Luke slicing the dessert,
which was a classic chocolate tart,
good dark ganache on crisp chocolate pastry, served with a not too sweet mascarpone ice cream
good dark ganache on crisp chocolate pastry, served with a not too sweet mascarpone ice cream
The dessert was accompanied by
the Malanot Triton Syrah
There are old world Syrahs and
there are new world Syrahs. Marius tried to make one in the middle. Medium wood
was used, no punch downs, Marius does not believe in them. It does go very well
with rich chocolate. Spicy and peppery with rich cherry, plum and mulberry
notes, it is perfumed on the palate, smooth and juicy with elegance and long
life
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2018
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