Thursday, December 12, 2024

Two days in the Cotswolds

A trip by train to Chipping Campden in the Cotswolds to stay a couple of nights with our old friend, musician Terry Rodbard,
who has visited us several times in Cape Town. Terry recently moved there after several years in Greece  

Off to the local pub, The Bakers Arms, for dinner
a very old, traditional pub which has undergone a recent renovation

He is a regular visitor

The menu
Lynne was seriously tempted by the starters, two instead of a main, she thought ....
Duck liver parfait and Ox or Monkfish cheeks? Decisions, decisions

and she settled for good fresh fish and crisp chips

The lads both had the huge, excellent, hamburgers

washed down by a pint of good local ale, Butty Bach

Dessert is always resistable in our family

The next morning we were off to explore this historic and beautiful  area 

 Part of the charm of the area is these beautifully built old Cotswold cottages ...

... and mansions, mostly built with local stone

Autumn was awash on the trees and the chill was ready to settle in for a few months

You have to keep stopping to gawp and take more photos

although Lynne is not sure that a photo of the driver and passenger was worth taking!

The Alms houses as you enter Chipping Campden are very special

The gate to a very special property, Campden House, which we often see used on British TV programmes
It is next door to the historic local Church

People put the strangest things in their windows.... King Charles and Grommit in an Alms house

Startlingly beautiful golden trees which cast a carpet of golden leaves beneath them
Lynne was astounded to see that they are not an indigenous tree, but Gingko Biloba
"This is considered a living fossil. It’s the only surviving species of a group of trees
that existed before dinosaurs roamed the earth
 Genetically, it has remained unchanged over the past 180+ million years."
They certainly make a gorgeous impact

Rows of classic houses line the High Street

This one with a door to an inner courtyard, allowing access for the horses

A mansion covered in ivy

and many little shops, still trading

Historic chimney pots

and an alleyway adjacent to a hotel, leading to other properties

A sunken walkway

Berries still on the tree

The old Chipping Campden Market Hall



 Some history: "Chipping Campden Market Hall stands in the centre of Chipping Campden High Street
This beautiful and iconic Market Hall is surrounded by ancient houses made from the local honey-coloured stone,
and it’s easy to imagine the market-place alive with the bustle of traders from centuries past
Built in 1627 by the town’s wealthy benefactor, Sir Baptist Hicks,
this landmark of the town was built to provide shelter for traders
Back then, townsfolk would trade goods like cheese, butter and poultry" 

Another view

A door into an historic Grammar School and Headmaster's House
Built in 1440, the text above the door reads "Schola grammatica 1487"

An Italian Bistro in the historic centre of town
Not exactly perfect weather for dining al fresco

We were heading for the Lygon Arms Hotel for some coffee, tea and cake and to get warm
It was rather damp and chilly outside

Resting weary feet?

Cotswold Ales 

The Bar

Collapsed from the walk, needing warm refeshment 

Good coffee and a wicked chocolate Brownie

Pumpkin season, just past Halloween

and, after another long historic walk and drive, we felt in need for refreshment
So why not try another country pub?
The Ebrington Arms is over 200 years old and full of charm, if not great service that day

Down a charming country lane


Caution: Low beams (and slow service)

Those settles keep the draught off your back

We chatted to locals while the barman did his accounts
The girls had a complaint; his comment, "I only work here". A reason for termination

Two more to try... Well, we are in Shakespeare country; Stratford is only a short ride down the road

Lynne felt she needed a Guinness to revive her. The Shakespeare was also very good

Parking under the ancient oaks

And then, later, it was time for supper and so we went, yes, to another good local pub
The Eight Bells in Chipping Campden, one that Terry recommends as the food is very good
Lots of different beers on tap to choose from...

Chatting to the landlord's pretty daughter

A table reserved, a warm welcome, a glass of wine for Lynne, more good beer and company

The Menu

An individual Short Crust Steak and Ale pie, creamy mash, parsnips, celeriac and cherry tomatoes
served with a red wine gravy 

Oh wow, Lynne was in need of a salad and this was a very special one
A classic Caesar salad topped with copious amounts of good smoked salmon, Boquerones (white Spanish anchovies),
good croutons and lots of the classic sauce, crisp cos lettuce and grated parmesan. Thank you chef

An humongous Beef burger on a potato bun, with chilli and bacon jam, mozzarella, Cotswold relish, Jalapeno chilli,
marinated onions, served with coleslaw and crisp chips

Wall art? ECIVDA means "You were a seeker of truth and wisdom", apparently

The mist and rain were beginning as we left after a very good supper

Winter setting in? 

Up early the next morning for the next epic trip with all our luggage
Train from Moreton in Marsh Station to Paddington, then the Heathrow Express
(which turned out to be on the very next platform to where our train came in.... whew)
and on to the airport and our flight to Belfast
We had bought Britrail passes before leaving South Africa and it made train travel so much easier

All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

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Posted by MENU at 4:40 pm

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