Thursday, October 26, 2017

Caroline's White Wine Review at The Table Bay

We are always delighted to be invited to Caroline's wine reviews; her selection of wines is usually very much to our taste. This year her White Wine Review was held again at the Table Bay hotel and was a great event, with lots of newly released wines from familiar farms to taste and new wines we have not heard of before as well as some older gems. The many MCCs and other bubbles were arranged in a row in the first room; what a lovely way to start a tasting. The wines of the evening that really impressed us were the Richard Kershaw Elgin 2016 Clonal Selection Chardonnay, the Anthonij Rupert Cape of Good Hope Caroline wine blend, a superb food wine, Almenkerk Chardonnay, Cape Chamonix Chardonnay, Life from Stone Sauvignon Blanc from Springfield and Nick van Aarde's White Lady Chardonnay. Obviously the Chardonnays were really hitting the spot! We try but we cannot taste all the wines  
A smiling Caroline Rillema
Nicki and Nadia Beaumont were showcasing winemaker Sebastian Beaumont's 2016 New Baby, a great white blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon and Colombard. This is about to be released in a week or so
Ginny Povall of Botanica with her lovely layered Mary Delaney Chenin Blanc, beautifully bottled, one of our top wines of the evening
Jane Eedes with Nico and Petra van der Merwe
On the Bon Courage stand with their new  Jacques Bruére Rosé MCC are Michelle Elford and winemaker Jacques Bruwer with his daughter
Colmant was a popular stand with their crisp and elegant Brut Chardonnay MCC, produced by JP Colmant, here with his daughter
Restaurateur Neil Grant with Chloé Nimmo of Graham Beck
and on the Simonsig stand winemakers Debbie Thompson and Hannes Meyer showing the Cuvée Royale Brut MCC 2012, one of their best ever vintages
John and Karen Loubser of Silverthorn were showing their elegant Green Man Brut MCC 2015
 Cape Point winemaker Riandri Visser with her 2016 Isliedh white blend
Joaquim Sa of Amorim Cork chatting to John Loubser
What's the weather like up there?
Lynne looking up to one of our tall wine people, Andrew Gunn of Iona Vineyards
Aletté van Vuuren showing the Ken Forrester Roussanne
Paul Kruger of Villiera having a taste of Hartenberg's 2015 The Eleanor Chardonnay, one of the best, from winemaker Patrick Ngamane
Boela Gerber of Groot Constanta
Stephanie Wiid of Fairview with their 2016 Nurok white blend
Richard de Almeida of De Morgenzon showing their Reserve Chenin blanc
David Sadie with their David and Nadia 2016 Aristargos white blend
Two very good wine promoters enjoying the evening, Kyle Martin and Clark Truter
Jenna Bruwer of Springfield with their Life from Stone Sauvignon Blanc 2017 which is drinking beautifully this year
Ernst and Nina-Mari Bruwer from Mont Blois with their 2016 Kweekkamp Chardonnay, a new wine for us. Nina-Mari is the winemaker
Caroline having a last toast of SImonsig MCC with Debbie Thompson


Prescient Chardonnay Report 2017 convened by Winemag.co.za

Another competition from WineMag.co.za. This time with sponsors Prescient and some great local Chardonnays achieved very high marks. There were 11 wines scoring 93 to 95 this year and we tasted them at The Stack in the Gardens. During the disastrous ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) years Chardonnay became popular worldwide and our winemakers, embracing the challenge, planted it. Sadly many, who had not worked with this noble grape before, gave it far too much new wood contact and put many South Africans off drinking it; it was a tough ride for the industry. But times have changed, much more experience has been gained and we now have much success with different styles appearing. Sales are growing and the wine is being enjoyed. It is also winning many accolades from top judges here and worldwide. We can and do grow and make superb Chardonnay
We do find that the three judges prefer quite a linear, leaner style and they did introduce a French Chardonnay into the blind tasting, which we find rather contentious as we cannot produce this style very often and, maybe, we should be lauding and producing wine which speaks to our own climate and terroirs? There were some excellent Chardonnays for tasting. This noble grape, made famous in the Burgundy area of France, has been grown in South African since the 1980s and plantings total 7% of the national vineyard
Making a statement!?
Swopping stories over a beer were Jonathan Snashall, Miles Mossop, André Morgenthal and Christian Eedes
We were all enjoying some MCC bubbles on the terrace before the awards
Lourensford winemaker Hannes Nel
Rose Jordaan of Bartinney Wines
And then it was time for the awards. The top wines were as follows:
95
Delaire Graff Banghoek Reserve. 2016 Price: R200. Perfume of golden flowers and fruit, honeysuckle and ripe peach, both on nose and palate, with limes and granadilla, wood just in the background and fresh on the finish
Eikendal 2016. Price: R163. Fresh with fennel on the nose, crisp and fresh acidity in layers, heady and enjoyable
 Rustenberg Stellenbosch 2016. Price: R175. Golden Chardonnay nose, so enticing. Sweet fruit in layers nicely balanced. Wood just hinting with caramel and smoke
94
Dabar 2016. Price: R97. From Napier grapes. smoky soft fruitm smooth and sliky on the palate with apples, greengages and a fresh ending
93
Evidence 2016. (Sophie & Julien Schaal) Price: R250. Restrained on the nose, familiar, herbal and fresh
Hartenberg The Eleanor 2015. Price: R325. Shy on the nose with vanilla wood. This is the style of Chardonnay we want to drink Golden fruit, buttery, freshness with a tingle on the end. Made for food
93
Holden Manz Barrel Fermented 2016. Price: R225. Perfumed, waxy on the nose, good fruit on the palate initially then wood takes over
Longridge Organic 2015. Price: R165. Perfumed, a charming entry, layers of fruit and wood, caramel apple and limes with a long finish on a woody end.
 
Paul Cluver Seven Flags 2016. Price: R550. Pure delight, buttery and floral, layers of fruit apple, peaches pineapple with such length. Wood supports not overwhelming.
Tokara Reserve Collection Stellenbosch 2016. Price: R180. Cigar smoke on the nose, Greengage apple and lime on the good palate, freshness on the end
Uva Mira 2016. Price: TBC. Smoky, rounded complete with pears and apples on the nose, butter, lemon and limes with a very fresh finish
 There were also some canapés served. Smoked salmon
Beef tartare
 Roast beef with horseradish
 Small bitterballen and also some arancini balls
 Jacqueline Lahoud announced the winners who all received certificates
 Morné Vrey of Delaire with judge James Pietersen
 Craig Mockford, CEO of Prescient, said that this was their third year as sponsors of this competition, which is in its 7th year. There were 91 wines in the line up and 42 scored 90 or more, which is impressive
 Paying attention
 Christian Eedes told us that this was the first time the competition was open to all, and not by invitation, as it was previously. And not capped at 60 wines. There was an entry fee of R450 per wine. It is extraordinary how wide the selection is, from light to powerful wines. Producers need to be careful of the wines at these edges, the big wines were not rewarded. The styles are reductive vs oxidative. A little burnt match and steel on reductive is good, but wines should not be pinched on the palate. Oxidative characteristics of apple, honey and nuts are also not rewarded, as the judges find them to be more like Chenin in style. The judges were blown away by the quality, the variation in style and the improvement in the vintages, which just continue to get better
Achim and Hildegard von Arnim of Haute Cabrière. Their wine, Haute Cabrière Reserve 2016,priced at R190, scored a creditable 90 points
Rose having fun after the award announcements


Wednesday, October 18, 2017

This Week’s MENU. Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel at Aubergine, FNB Top 20 Sauvignons, Broad beans, Perdeberg Dryland Chenin

Wheat fields, clouds and hills in the Overberg
You will have noticed that our last few weeks have been somewhat fraught. Just now, we are enjoying a small respite while we look forward to times which promise to be as frenetic as those just past. So we are taking the opportunity and publishing MENU with just two stories, each of which we believe to have special significance, plus our usual recipe and Wine of the Week before we gird our loins for the fun to come. We live in an exciting, still evolving country. It has some of the most beautiful, very varied, scenery; challenging, but fermenting and constantly developing politics, kept under control by free courts and media and, importantly for us, a very exciting food and wine environment. We do our best to keep you up to date with all of that, so read on and, we hope, enjoy

Simonsig Estate was recently crowned top producer at the 16th Amorim Cap Classique Challenge. Last week, we were invited to a tasting of older vintages from Simonsig’s range of Cap Classiques, hosted by cellarmaster Johan Malan. This was followed by lunch at Aubergine restaurant with a paired menu to match these excellent wines. They were innovative pairings by Chef Patron Harald Bresselschmidt, who is one of the most skilled at this difficult art
This year the awards were held over lunch at Franschhoek Cellars. We are great fans of this refreshing, crisp white wine that can have many different characters and styles, so we were excited to see which ones have risen to the top this year .
Broad beans are in season and, if you are lucky enough to find some, this is one of our favourite recipes to try. Easy peasy, no cooking required. You can make toast can't you?
250G shelled broad beans – salt - 1 small clove of garlic – 1 t of lemon juice - a handful of mint & parsley a dribble of olive oil - slices of bruschetta – 1 clove of garlic
Plunge the beans into boiling salted water and cook for no more than 2 or 3 minutes. Drain, refresh with cold water and then slip the beans from their tough outer coating. This is easy to do if you make a small nick in each bean and squeeze. Put them into your blender with the roughly chopped herbs, lemon juice, garlic and olive oil. Blitz them but leave them a fairly rough consistency - you do not want a smooth paste. Taste and add salt. They will make a beautiful bright green spread. Toast the bruschettas on both sides, and wipe the cut edge of a clove of garlic twice across the surface of each. Spread on the paste and enjoy3
We had this wine with one of our favourite suppers, witlof wrapped in ham and cooked in a cheese sauce. Some wines would not cope with the flavours of witlof or the heavy smoked ham and thick cheese sauce. This Chenin not only coped, but it added a lot to the dish.
A refreshing food wine with hints of spice, ginger and honey on the nose and a little petricor, which is rain on hot stones or earth. A tingle on the tongue from pineapple acidity, crisp citrus flavours followed by green melon and pear, lots of layers. John's comment? "It's a bloody nice wine". Often mistaken for another, very expensive, Chenin Blanc.
The current vintage is available from the farm at R110. They also have a barrel fermented Chenin in the same range for R115. Don't forget that Perdeberg has their open day on the 28th of this month, when you can go and sample all their wines and bring cases home with you

18th October 2017


© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
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