Thursday, March 01, 2018

A day in Glorious Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens

We had not been to this wonderful place for years, other than attending the occasional concert; we confess it. No excuses, just meant to and it didn't happen. But our overseas friends love it and suggested we go so, finally, we got there, being tourists in our own town again. And on a Tuesday, when local pensioners (us!) get in free. It is being affected by the drought but they are making survival plans and there is a lot of mass planting of succulents and other water wise plants. We finally got to walk on the Boomslang, the tree canopy walk, and had lunch in the old restaurant that holds many memories for Capetonians
At least we do know some of the tricks. We parked up at the top gate and traversed downhill, criss-crossing the gardens. First heading for the Protea garden. The Agapanthus are in major flower this month, so unusual; must be the drought. We expect to see them before Christmas
Tall tufts of papyrus, suffering a bit
The lawns and the mountain are like green velvet, but this area does get a lot of mist from the mountain and the temperature inversion clouds
We were so encouraged to see so many school classes getting botany lessons from Kirstenbosch staff. Way back, when Lynne was at school in Sea Point, we were brought here four times a year for similar lessons which engendered a lifelong love and appreciation of plants and nature
A noisy olive thrush feeding on berries. They sing so beautifully
In the wondrous prehistoric cycad forest they had picked this 'fruit' and the gardener told us that they will be able to make new plants from each segment
The dinosaur statues certainly add to the atmosphere and must delight children. We are amazed at how tall some of the cycads are
Then in the dell, one of our favourite places, damp and moist and lush and green with ferns and streptocarpus, the mountain steam and spring from Lady Anne Barnard's bath
Fern shadows on the stepping stones with the stream flowing below
Tree ferns and cool shade over the stream. We were quite sunburned on our walk
The cobbled walkway under the indigenous trees
Taking a nap in the shade?
The otter pool. We could not spot any fish, tadpoles or crabs so, perhaps, the otters are active
Ah, just what we needed, ice cold beers at the Kirstenbosch Tea Room restaurant. When we were children, our parents used to bring us here for the speciality - crayfish salad which was plentiful and cheap. No chance of that very scarce luxury being served any more. But you can still get scones, cream and jam
 The lads had the burgers with crisp fried onion rings, crisp chips (and we didn't have to ask for them) and good pickles. This dish came with a large mixed salad for them to share
Lynne had a toasted cheese sandwich and a salad and Yvonne had anchovy toast as she wasn't very hungry
The bill
Lovely on the terrace under the cool green umbrellas. Expect to queue, but it didn't take long
There was an exhibition of paintings by local artists, some very talented
And there are several sculptures in the gardens
We climbed back up the hill, very slowly
And up these stairs in the heat, not so great, but we were on a mission
It was HOT
The Tree Canopy Walk was our destination, now freely open to all
It is quite marvellous as it winds its way through the tree tops. We do hope they manage to raise funds to extend it some time in the future
It did not trigger Lynne's physical vertigo at all. It does vibrate but not much
The views are superb
lose
Over to the back of Devils Peak and Table Mountain ...
... and then over the Cape Flats to the Stellenbosch mountains
It snakes along, hence the nickname borrowed from one of our indigenous snakes, the Boomslang (translation, tree snake)
Great for photographs
Green tunnels
A view of the concert stage. Regular summer concerts are held in Kirstenbosch. They are very popular; you must book
Hot and gasping for air, having finished the epic climb back up to the top gate, we certainly did our 3,000 steps that day. We have promised ourselves a return visit, soooon

Tapas and wine at Bouchon Bistro & Wine Bar

Dorrance Wine Cellar, Heritage Square in Cape Town
We love wine bars and often wonder why they have not really caught on in the Cape. There are a few, but there could be many more. When Lynne returned to Cape Town from London in 1993 she wanted to open one. It will never work she was told, people don’t go out after work, they go home first and then they go out. But it seems things have changed and as Cape Town has become more work flexible, lots of people want to meet friends after work. We decided to go and see how Dorrance were succeeding with theirs
Christoph Durand was a barrel trader from France who decided to settle in the Cape more than two decades ago. He started to make his own (then garagiste) wines in rented spaces, but now has his own Dorrance mini winery at the back of the wine bar in the middle of central Cape Town
It looks more like a restaurant and, indeed, it has tied up with Faisal Khakoo of La Bohème bistro in Sea Point, who runs the kitchen - they serve a tapas menu. We were surprised to see linen table cloths in a wine bar and in the drought. They also serve other alcohols and we saw this gin tray with a selection of local artisanal gins ... gin cocktail anyone?
We read on the website that Dorrance wines are available for tasting till 6 pm and thereafter the wine bar is open but, although we arrived before six, the tastings were not taking place as it is harvest time. We did persuade the friendly staff to allow us a small tasting of three of their available wines
The Dorrance 2014 Chardonnay Cuvée Anaïs (R317 / R81 a glass on the menu) is rich and complex on the nose; full of peaches, with a full palate with more rich lushness and hints of peaches and apricots with citrus on the end. Wood lees are its backbone. It’s a Bourgogne with lots and lots of sunshine! The Dorrance Rouge (R150 / R50 a glass) is 100% Cinsault from the Swartland. It has the characteristic slightly metallic, almost Pinot Noir nose with gentle berry fruit. Clean rhubarb and cherries on the palate, a nice quaffing wine, and a good expression of what Cinsault ban be like in South Africa. It washes the palate and has long flavours. The 2014 Syrah Cuvée Ameena (R350 / R88 a glass) has spice and white pepper with soft bruléed cherries on the nose. Crisp on the palate with lively fruit acids, mulberries from the tree, soft chalky tannins, warmth on the end and a steely old world finish
The specials of the day
The three page tapas menu. Lots of choice! We asked about the sizes and they are all about 100g, so four would be good for two people, which is what we ordered. With her meal Lynne ordered a glass of the Dorrance Rosé also made from 100% Cinsault (R150 / R50). We assume that it is made with the free run juice of the Rouge. It has the same nose, but is much lighter and softer on the palate. John had a glass of the Viognier
Crispy curry spiced fried calamari on parsley couscous with aioli (R72.50). Nice and crisp tentacles and polpetti; we didn’t detect much curry spice, a good light aioli and superb olive oil couscous with parsley. Topped with fresh tomato, pea shoots and a slice of lemon. The chardonnay loved the couscous
Tuna Crudo with teriyaki and a mango and Peppadew salsa (R87.50) Fresh from the sea tuna, beautifully pink in a caramelised teriyaki, so, so good. There was competition eating this dish. Topped with raw onion, chilli and coriander salsa. Didn't notice any mango. The red chilli fought with the wine
Prawn and Spring Onion gnocchi in garlic and pecorino sauce (R79.50). Round in shape, rather doughy gnocchi, reminded us more of Chinese dim sum because of the texture and the spring onions. Loved the pecorino cream sauce. Plenty of prawns which were a bit chewy, topped with lemon, pepper and pea shoots, a good dish
Duck Rillette with toast and pickles (R70.50) Quite a dry rillette, no duck fat residue, good flavour. Served with good pickled cucumber and onion and toasted ciabatta bread. The duck and the pickles need each other, they sing together
The bill

Now we have to go back and try some more of those enticing Tapas. And hopefully the new season Chenin when it is available, currently it is sold out

Breakfast with Jason

Friday morning at Jason's Bakery
Jason Lilley now has two Bakeries in Cape Town and we had not yet been to the one in Green Point which opened late last year in an attractive Edwardian building. We haven't treated ourselves to breakfast for months, so on Friday morning we set off at 9.30. Why so late? The breakfast menu is quite small and they start serving sandwiches at 10, so we were hoping to have a choice of both options. http://www.jasonbakery.com/eat/
It was as busy as we would have expected it to be on a Saturday! Lots of tourists, honeymooners, people off work
There is a counter at the front where you can buy his bread and pastries to take home. And lots of people arrived after a nice walk, many with dogs, who have to stay outside the restaurant
The pastries look delectable
Jason is deservedly famous for his bread, and his pies
On the door or the walk in fridge!
A place to do your on line work?
We appreciated this
We began with two Americanos. Not great in a paper cup but necessary. Wondering whether we can take our own cups next time? Should we start a trend?
Lots of charcuterie, some imported in the fridge window
The Bakery is behind the service area, and seemed constantly busy; they have a fast turnover. Is that Jason on the right, pounding dough?
The Menu
Lynne ordered The Bomb, R58, a croissant with filled with bacon, Emmenthal cheese and a soft poached egg. T'was lovely, but she did envy John's huge sandwich
He had the BAB. R80 on Ciabatta, crisp streaky bacon, avo and Dalewood Brie. One might be enough for two people. .... maybe... As it was mid-morning, he was tempted and thought a beer would go down well with it. No luck... they aren't licensed
Our bill. Lynne had to take a pill and so had to order a bottle of still water. Huge price for 500ml. We took the bottle home to recycle it. We enjoyed our brekkie and will definitely be back for more. We bought two Pasteis de Nata home to have with our supper and they were superb. Light flaky pastry and really flavourful custard. Do they put alcohol in the custard? There did seem to be a faint whiff of something good. Is that the secret ingredient we keep hearing about?