Sunday, June 11, 2023

Le Riche pre-release wine tasting at Wine Cellar

We were given a very difficult choice this week. Go to the Wine Cellar on Monday
to attend a pre-release tasting of Le Riche wines
OR go to the farm later in the week for a walk around tasting
John wanted to do both but, seeing reason, we finally plumped for Monday
and so enjoyed the tasting with Cellarmaster Christo Le Riche

The spacious tasting venue holds regular tastings of good wines
Get on their mailing list to find our which you can attend
or check out their website https://www.winecellar.co.za/events

The range of wines we were to experience

The tasting sheet. Great news for Le Riche,
the 2020 Le Riche Reserve Cabernet from the Helderberg vineyards in Stellenbosch
(and IONA Chardonnay 2021 from the Elgin Highlands)
were the panels' favourite South African wines at the 2023 Decanter Awards in London

Le Riche only make one white wine, a Chardonnay
The grapes come from the Firgrove and Polkadraai areas of Stellenbosch
It is only available ex Cellar door at R295
It is perfumed with quince and apple and a hint of oak On the palate, toffee apple and good crispness with long flavours
and ending with a little Seville orange wood, very enjoyable

Christo Le Riche took over from his father Etienne, who had a long, stellar career making superb wines at Rustenburg
By 1982 Etienne had created some of the most sought-after wines in the country
and he was a founding member of the Cape Winemakers Guild
It was, however, his dream to own his own winery, which led him to establish his own cellar in Jonkershoek,
where he made his first Le Riche vintage in 1996
When the owners wanted to re-develop the property, this became unavailable to him
and he moved to their own property in the Helderberg, where they built new open-topped fermenters which replicated the exact dimensions of the Jonkershoek tanks. By 2010, Etienne had been joined by his children, Yvonne (CWM) and Christo
Their mission statement says:
"Our vision is to craft the ultimate expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from the Stellenbosch Winelands of South Africa
Founded and managed by the Le Riche Family, we exclusively select and source only the highest-quality fruit,
from unique vineyards, grown by long-term, established farmers"

Their focus is on Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends from Stellenbosch
They also have a new focus on producing a Heritage Blend of Cabernet and Cinsault

The temperature map of the entire Stellenbosch area
Christo says that they prefer to buy grapes from North West to South Westerly aspects
When they make Cabernets, nothing is ever blended with it; 100% Stellenbosch Cabernet in the bottle is what they aim for
They work closely with the growers and have been buying many of their supplier farmers' grapes for several years
and have established good relationships with them

The 2021 Richesse is a blend of 56% Cabernet, 14% Cinsault, 14% Cabernet Franc, 8% each Merlot and Petit Verdot
Incense wood, then mulberry, cherry and cassis with a hint of violets on the nose
On the Palate, chalky tannins, crisp fruit, cranberry, cherry and a finish of wood
It's gentle on the palate and shows aging potential
The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon has the classic Cabernet nose, rich cassis and black cherry, with gentle wood on the end
Juicy fruit comes in waves as does the grippy, chalky tannin
Lasting flavours of cherry, mainly with a velvety end. Built to last

The 2016 Cabernet has elegance and complexity on the nose, lovely cassis and black cherry fruit. A hint of smoky wood
On the palate lots of chalky tannins, the fruit is shy at first, then morello cherry and cassis open with lasting flavours
30 cases will be released in July
The 2020 Reserve Cabernet has incense wood, rich dark berry fruit on the nose, so well blended and wooded
Silky on the palate, then tannins grip and then wonderful layers of juicy dark fruit captivate
and you know this will go on to last and get even better with age. Exceptional

The 2015 Reserve Cabernet comes from what has been recognized as an outstanding vintage
Age does show on the nose, which is a little shy, with cassis and green cassis leaves and wood just supporting
Dark red and black berry fruit, well blended, some warmth, some sweetness, and wood
Softer tannins, lighter in texture and becoming mulberry and pomegranate. Cristo says it's in the early days in its life
The 2012 Reserve Cabernet has such richness on the nose, it asks you to dive in
Incense wood and elegant perfumed fruit on the nose.  Integrated fruit mulberry, cranberry and cassis
with soft tannins supporting and wood holding it together nicely. Very pleasing 

The 2007 Cabernet produced for the Cape Winemakers Guild Auction was special
Incense wood, salty minerality and dark berries on the powerful nose
Cassis predominates with some cassis green leaves. From a single vineyard. Soft chalk and berries fight for dominance,
a glorious battle for attention on the palate then the fruit wins and comes in waves and layers, so satisfying
Some bruléed dark plum and prune fruit from the wood. It has lasted so well and will continue

It was a great tasting and we felt very privileged to taste the older wines with those just about to be released

Sniffing, tasting, comparing, making notes, the wine world at work

A great surprise at the end was a delivery of some canapés from Jardine Restaurant in Stellenbosch; they were delicious
In cones of bark, on a potato crisp, a finely cut meat tartare with some of the meat cooked, a treat and very moreish

We had no descriptions, so we guessed at the food
On the left, what Lynne thought Financiers made with almond sponge
topped with a tiny pearl onion cup containing caramel sauce which soaked the cake below with more dark salty caramel
On the left small crisp rice crackers with rich, flavourful duck mousse and topped with an onion jam
All were perfection and ended the impressive tasting on just the right note. Thank you, Le Riche family

Just one? No....

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Sunday, June 04, 2023

In MENU this issue - Martin Moore RIP; Trophy Wine Show Judges' Feedback; Wine Concepts Grape Escape; A Darling Day; Coronation - with chicken; Council to the rescue

Winter is here – the Cape has had several weeks of storms with gale force winds and torrential rain. We have measured more rainfall so far this year than we had had by the end of July last year. Our house has cracked tiles and a leaking roof. We hope the people our insurers sent to check it out hurry up and fix it. But we are fortunate. There are many people in much worse circumstances.

In this issue, we say goodbye to a very special man, tell a story about remedial action taken by our City Council, a couple of our own fun experiences and some very important wine events. Please enjoy them

Martin Moore RIP

                  Neil Ellis and Martin sharing a joke at Cape Wine 2022

A great oak (he might say Oke!) has fallen, sadly, at the tender age of 60

Martin Moore was a big man, not just physically, but in almost every way. His zest for life, his huge sense of humour, love of life with wine, food (especially braai), people and sport and his encyclopaedic knowledge of the process and business of making wine

We met him first when he was making the wine at Groot Constantia and reviving the wine reputation of this historic estate. We were near the end of our studies for the Cape Wine Academy diploma and his help was invaluable in getting us over the final hurdle. 
Read on…

The 2023 Trophy Wine Show Judges' Feedback Session

This year's Feedback Session of the Trophy Wine Show, sponsored by Investec, was held at the Lord Charles Hotel in Somerset West. The results will be announced on Monday, 8th of June and there will be tastings open to the public in Johannesburg on Wednesday, 14th June at the Sandton Centre and in Cape Town on Wednesday, 21st June at the CTICC. 
Read on...

Wine Concepts Grape Escape Wine Festival

Great to see Mike Duggan and his team doing an unusual tasting and in a new venue, the Steenberg Golf Club. We quote from the invitation: “Wine Concepts is thrilled to invite wine lovers to the third annual Grape Escape Wine Festival. Following the success of previous festivals, this year's event promises to be an exclusive afternoon of exceptional wine tasting. The festival will feature an exciting and diverse selection of wines from uncommon varieties and blends, including Cinsault, Gamay Noir, Verdelho, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Riesling, Clairette Blanche, Carmenère, Carignan, Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and Chenin driven blends, as well as captivating Rhone varieties such as Viognier, Marsanne, Syrah, and Grenache”. 
Click on this link to read on...

A Darling Day

happened because our electricity was being turned off in the street from 9am to 2pm to replace an electric pole and some wiring and do some tree trimming after a storm. As it was a Wednesday, we decided to decamp and visit Darling Cellars. Luckily, it was an absolutely clear and sparking day, if a bit chilly. 
Read on...

Watching the Coronation - with chicken


God Save the King - The British do Pomp and Circumstance so well. We enjoyed the music in the Abbey very much, especially the aria sung by our South African Diva Pretty Yende. 
See more…

Cape Town City Council to the rescue


Cape Town was in the middle of a storm. We had been experiencing gale force winds since the previous morning

On Friday 12th May, ±5 pm, we called the City Council to report water gushing out from under the tarmac across the road from our house and were told it would be attended to as soon as possible, but that there were damage reports coming in from all over the city

At 7 pm the repair team arrived, got to work with spectacular effects and by 7.30 the broken pipe had been dug up and fixed
Read on…



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Wine Concepts Grape Escape Wine Festival

Great to see Mike Duggan and his team doing an unusual tasting and in a new venue, the Steenberg Golf Club. We quote from the invitation: “Wine Concepts is thrilled to invite wine lovers to the third annual Grape Escape Wine Festival. Following the success of previous festivals, this year's event promises to be an exclusive afternoon of exceptional wine tasting. The festival will feature an exciting and diverse selection of wines from uncommon varieties and blends, including Cinsault, Gamay Noir, Verdelho, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Riesling, Clairette Blanche, Carmenère, Carignan, Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and Chenin driven blends, as well as captivating Rhone varieties such as Viognier, Marsanne, Syrah, and Grenache”

We love seeing where growers are going with these niche varieties
so expected some new finds and indeed there were some. It was well attended


Mike Duggan chatting to Tarryn Vincent-Thomas of Reciprocal Trading

We began tasting white wines but, half way through, switched to reds and so may have missed several good wines,
but with so much to taste, it’s always a challenge and there were so many new farms and brands
An excellent Vermentino from Morgenster called Julio, in tribute to deceased owner Julio Bertrand,
made by winemaker Yolande van Staden
Elegance on the forward and perfumed nose, crisp long and lingering with layers of fruit and flavour, demands food

Great Heart 2021 Cabernet Franc. Great Heart is the staff empowerment project of Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines,
known for their multi-award winning Leeu Passant and Mullineux wineries
These grapes come from the Leeu estate in Franschhoek
It has smoke, red berries and plums on the nose, soft then grippy green tannins to take with it as it ages
Crunchy red berry grapes with a long finish

Renee, Jonathan, Murray and Michael Bampfield-Duggan with Shandri Erasmus

Lynne was impressed with 2022 Grenache "Stok by Paaltjie" (Sur Échalas  or goblet-trained vine) from Fairview
Made by experienced winemaker Anthony de Jager, who made so many of the Cape’s first niche grape wines,
grown in the Swartland by Charles Back
Cherry and fynbos on the nose, Cranberry and red berry on the palate
with tight grippy tannins and chalk on the teeth. Made to last

Lynne had a long chat at the Nativo table about Orange wine with the owner of Hughes Family Wines Billy Hughes
She tasted the 2020 Nativo which is a blend of Viognier, Chenin, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc
“Very perfumed, one I would wear”, said Lynne
On the palate it certainly showcases all the varieties in the wine
The Bees 2021, made from Viognier, has a floral nose
and is rich and round on the palate
with honey sweetness and is very interesting.  Need to try this with food
Nativo Amarillo 2020 Orange Wine is a blend of 54% Chenin Blanc, 24% Viognier, 22% Roussanne
Lynne found similarities to a weaker Oloroso sherry but without the punch
It does have bite from the chalky tannins and might go with fish or seafood,
but, to be honest, we are more fans of sherry than of this style of wine but it has its admirers
How can we get the young to drink good dry and Oloroso sherry?
Could it be the next thing to catch on, if we serve it dry and at a chilled temperature?

Jacques van der Heyde (partner in Wine Concepts International Pty Ltd) with Mike and Renee

Nicole Kilian with Keermont. We tasted (and fondly remembered) their excellent white blend called Terrasse:
Chenin blanc 56%; Chardonnay 17%; Sauvignon blanc 18%; Roussanne 4%; Marsanne 4%; Viognier 1%
It’s powerful on the nose with hints of citrus, nut and oak and, on the complex palate,
layers of ripe apricot, peach and quince
The name comes from the many terraces of different grapes grown high up on the mountain

Jason Steel is an exciting young man who loves and understands wine
Formerly working as front of house for top Cape Town restaurants, he is establishing his own range of wines
A 2013 MasterChef South Africa finalist, he is also a foodie
The 2021 Colombard was made with grapes from Arendsig and Jason is now working with our old friend
owner/cellarmaster Lourens van der Westhuizen at Arendsig in Bonnievale to produce Jason’s new wines
This 2021 Cabernet was made at Silverthorn with the assistance of owner/winemaker John Loubser
and the grapes were sourced from their small Cabernet vineyard
It has a classic Cabernet nose, very attractive
Nine months on gentle wood, with nice grippy tannins, good acidity and long cassis flavours, it was very good

Thelema Sutherland Viognier Roussanne is a great blend and works so well together,
the slight sweetness of the viognier balanced by the good acidity of the Roussanne
You feel you are down south in France

The Steenberg 2021 Semillon has age and maturity on the nose
and is crisp and complex on the palate, with long flavours and lots of wood. Needs time

Kerry Sutherland represents Tierhoek from up in the Piekenierskloof area
The 2021 Old Vine Chenin Blanc from 30 year old trellised vines is complex and layered on the nose
We were taken to see the vineyard many years ago by Tony and Shelley Sandell just after they bought the farm
It had a row of pine trees growing through the middle of the neglected vineyard. So good to see what they made of it
Concentrated flavours of pear and apple on the palate with light wood supporting. Delicious

Swanepoel is a new name for us. They are from the in Tulbagh valley
They have a very enjoyable crisp and elegant Cap Classique that people were talking about
It is made, unusually, from Grenache Blanc
Lynne found raspberries on the bready nose but crisp, clean Blanc de Blanc flavours on the palate
Dirk Swanepoel is the winemaker. In the barrel for 6 months and on the lees for 15 months

Usana 2021 The Runaway is made from Pinot Gris; shy on the nose, then it opens up

Dave Louw, who used to sell wines to us in our shop, is marketing these wines

Nicoleen Traut (Ridgeback Wines) and Bev Murray (Strandveld Wines)

We know, love and buy the Strandveld wines which come from the Elim area, about as southern as you can get
The Navigator is an excellent Rhône blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier
Talented winemaker Conrad Vlok was awarded Winemaker of the year recently
and when he makes a Viognier it is one of the best., elegant, layered and made with great subtlety
His Grenache 2021 is a big wine, aromatic with fynbos and great dark fruit and well wooded with fine tannins
They all are a sommeliers dream, going perfectly with good food

The Ridgeback Viognier reminded us that it is a while since we last visited the farm in upper Paarl
Perfume on the nose of flowers and golden fruit, which follows through on the palate
with peach and pineapple crispness with some light supporting oak on the finish

Taryn Vincent-Thomas of Reciprocal Trading with a newly released Riedel glass
She had some French wines to taste. Lynne recognized the La Vielle Ferme brand from her travels in France
This was a non-vintage Chardonnay from the Rhône. It was very French, very familiar and very crisp
The Domaine du Tariquet is a blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng from Gascony
It has a good nose; it sings of the south, a hint of mimosa!
Figs, minerality, crispness and a little hanepoot grape, with a little salt on the end
You could almost hear the cicadas, but we were tasting lots of wine.... Around R250 a bottle if you want to try it

From Waterkloof in Somerset West, a Rosé Mourvèdre called Cape Coral,
which was on the skins for 12 months, we were told
13.5% gives the wine some warmth and it has lots of the red wine characteristics
There was also a 2022 Cinsault, a 2020 Mourvèdre,
and one Lynne regrets not having tasted, the 2018 Petit Verdot - she is rather fond of the grape

We made two stops at the Welgegund table and were richly rewarded and impressed each time. The farm is in Wellington
Winemaker Friedrich Kühne was extremely helpful
The 2019 Chenin from old vines planted in a 1974 has richness on the nose which denotes the old barrel fermentation
Cooked and crisp apple on both nose and palate make for a good experience
The 2019 Grenache Noir is from high vineyards and grows on granite rocks
Whole bunch fermentation with 10% stalks, 50% in 2nd fill wood. The rest is unwooded
Really good red and black fruit aromas and flavours on the nose and palate. soft tannins with a little grip
The terroir shows. A very enjoyable wine

Emy Mathews and Friedrich Kühne of Welgegund
Emy is about to start a new job at the Vineyard Collection in Stellenbosch
We have known Emy for many years; she is very knowledgeable about wine


The 2019 Cinsault is beautifully perfumed on the nose with flowers and fruit
New French Oak and a ceramic amphora was used on the wine, showing incense on the nose too
Lovely raspberry and cherry fruit, nice chalky tannins, it’s a lovely wine and probably the best we tasted on the show
We think a visit to them is due soon

Sue Anderson and Dane Raath, both successful distributors representing good farms
We wrote about Dane's trade show at The Winchester recently

Bruwer Wines B Vintners Harlem to Hope, grown in the Polkadraai hills in Stellenbosch
A blend of Chenin Blanc, Semillon; Muscat Blanc and Muscat d’ Alexandrie
The varieties were brought to the Cape, by the early Dutch settlers

Blake's Family Wines from Yzerfontein; most of the grapes are from the nearby Darling area
The Chenin blanc has delightful fruit, fresh green apple with hints of apricot and spice

Another new name for us, Klipkers from De Kleine Wijn Koöp
The Debutant is a Semillon from Franschhoek, made by Wynand Grobler,
who has more experience with this variety than most winemakers, 
and made excellent Semillon for Rickety Bridge and Landau de Val
It has a wonderful mouthfeel with subtle citrus and honeyed pineapple and a classic lime finish

Leon Coetzee with his The Fledge range of wines

He and his wife, Margaux Nel of Boplaas, make this range of wines from bought in grapes all over the winelands
These wines get attention from people

The Tinta Barocca is from vines planted in 1971 on the Swartberg mountains
Sweet bruléed fruit, tight tannins. loong and complex with dark black fruit and good wood
The 2018 Touriga Franca used grapes from the last vintage at Bredell and are no more. 
Pretty, perfumed fruit with some roses
Lighter fruit on the palate than expected, with nice salty drop licorice in the middle, with long flavours and calling for food

Leon Coetzee pouring his Constantia Riesling

Paul Hoogwerf from Maanschijn and Carsten Migliarina

We have long been fans of Migliarina wines
and it was special to savour his excellent 2022 Chenin Blanc and especially his 2018 Grenache
Vanilla tempts on the nose, sweet berry fruit entrances on the palate with some tight tannins and a crisp end
 Shouts for food



The 2021 Grenache Blanc from Olifantsberg is shy on the nose and has sweet fruit and long warm flavours
The 2020 had much more wood and is light, then sweet

All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

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