Held again at Grande Roche on Friday, this valuable feedback
session where the judges, local and international, give their impressions of
the wines they have tasted and have finished judging earlier that morning. The session
is open to all entrants and the wine industry as a whole. We find this a very good
barometer of where the industry is at present. We hear where there have been improvements,
what has impressed or underperformed and if there are any new trends
We like to get there early so we can chat to the
judges informally before the session to see what their thoughts are
The morning is broken by a good glass of bubbly.
Or coffee or tea
A good selection ....
... of local entries into the MCC category
Tired judges who have just finished judging the
trophy wines
Judges James Pietersen (The Wine Cellar) and Nerina
Cloete (winemaker at Blaauwklippen)
Janice Fridjhon the Outsorceress genie, who puts
this all together with help from her band of willing and able assistants
Judges getting ready to report
Proceedings were opened by Michael Fridjhon
More
wines were entered this year than they ever expected. They have just completed
the four days of tasting . On Monday, which was a public holiday they had a
tasting of older South African wines 1966 was the oldest vintage. This give the
foreign judges a chance to see what the wines can become. The South African market
has no confidence of wines older than five years , we need to encourage and
train them, especially the younger drinkers, to wait and see what can happen in
the bottle over time, and the industry needs to know what they can pack into
the bottles to make them last. The panels working together is so important that
they agree on precision and levels of quality. The industry is moving into a
new space: the young guns and wild cards and the old guys are all giving wine
better attention and have produced a lovely array of good examples. A broad
range of styles made gold comfortably. The industry has lifted its game across
the board, there is diversity across the wide range of terroirs and regions.
There is much better use of wood , more carefully handled. There were fewer
museum class wines with trophies and golds despite the higher entry. Does this
mean the past is not as good as the present?
More
wines were entered this year than they ever expected. They have just completed
the four days of tasting . On Monday, which was a public holiday they had a
tasting of older South African wines 1966 was the oldest vintage. This give the
foreign judges a chance to see what the wines can become. The South African market
has no confidence of wines older than five years , we need to encourage and
train them, especially the younger drinkers, to wait and see what can happen in
the bottle over time, and the industry needs to know what they can pack into
the bottles to make them last. The panels working together is so important that
they agree on precision and levels of quality. The industry is moving into a
new space: the young guns and wild cards and the old guys are all giving wine
better attention and have produced a lovely array of good examples. A broad
range of styles made gold comfortably. The industry has lifted its game across
the board, there is diversity across the wide range of terroirs and regions.
There is much better use of wood , more carefully handled. There were fewer
museum class wines with trophies and golds despite the higher entry. Does this
mean the past is not as good as the present?
Michael took this chance to thank all the regular
helpers who work tirelessly behind the scenes to make this competition work so
well
Then it was the turn of the Judges to comment on
what they tasted. Each judge will taste in three or four different panels . The
audience waits in anticipation. There were three International Judges. See the
judges profiles here. ***
First to speak was Eduardo Brethauer from Chile
He
said that he had found this competition to be the most fair and respectful in
all the world and he has done competitions in 30 different countries . He
especially likes the way that wine is discussed amongst the judges and controversy
is allowed. It is his first time in South Africa He is impressed how much
better wines are now than 20 years ago, He tasted Sparkling wines, Sauvignon
Blancs and sweet wines and was amazed. His advice to our industry: Don't market
the wood, show the fruit, not the wood, let the fruit escape the sun,
especially in the afternoons. Always be honest and original , don't try to be
something you are not. And don't make Pinotage like Cabernets, or over wood it. Much
had to much wood, show the fruit, the cultivates, vineyards, the climate and
the personality.
Heidi Mäkinen
Also her first visit to South
Africa. She agreed with Eduardo about how good the wine show arrangements are.
Timing is always hard. People here are amazing, the rigorous competition is so
honest and good. She confessed she did not know much of our industry. This week
has changed her shallow opinions. She tasted white wines, Pinot Noir and nice
varietals.. One category has risen - Chardonnays, they are doing a great job.
She doesn't know the bad old over wooded ones. Very distinctive styles here.
Good use of oak, not promoting the French tonneliers. Good acidity, good grape
handling, really thrilling wines. Oaked Sauvignon Blancs also good with great
balance and aromas, piercing acidity softened by good oaking.
Francois Rautenbach
He reiterates what Heidi says.
Impressions over the last few years have made for a steep pyramid. Top class
good value with purity and delicacy very exciting. Sauvignon Blancs with real
personality. A small entry of wooded ones, very exciting at the top end, now we
must bring the quality downwards. Put money into vineyards and not the woo. Of
the merlot category he was impressed with the light colours, more rose petals
than dark black wine, moving along in quality for the top ones. Advice on 2016 Sauvignons:
sell them as quickly as you can. Shiraz not massively over developed, good
consistency
Nkulu Mkhwanazi
Impressed but shortcomings on the
Cabernet Francs. An exciting variety but very few have elegance, purity and
finesse Too much oak, not focussed. Cabernets were an exciting strong category
, lots of competition. Some smartly made with big elegance finesse and
intensity. Chenin Blanc great examples but diverse, judges had to pay attention
to the different styles. Chardonnays in the medal class were really amazing, especially
the museum class. Grande Roche is a very comfortable venue for he competition
Heidi Duminy MW chaired the Bubbly panel.
The
class showed so well, there is a track record and impressive how far they have
progressed in a short time, growing in double digits. Stand out wines, with
purity of fruit, the new style of glasses really helps the MCCs. Chardonnays
are showing the best,. Lovely lees are showing, patience is needed, there is
gorgeous freshness of fruit. We need to look at the work the Pinot Noir isn't
doing, it is not adding much to the wine. She liked the smile on Eduardo's
face, he was impressed. A quote: The only pain I can bear is Champagne"
Nerina Cloete
A great show. From a wine makers
perspective Sauvignon Blanc challenging this year - follow what you know. We
can make beautiful Chardonnay and she liked the Pinot Noirs. Sees people
putting layers into white blends. Wooded Sauvignon Blancs -stunning to see the
effect of wood on this grape.
Neil Becket
commented how good the show is and how
well conceived . More excited at the huge progress in our wines. He is as
excited as everyone with the Chardonnays. The Pendulum has swung too far worldwide
in reductive wines. The best wines avoid it and find the sweet spot in the
middle. Red wines the best improved were the Bordeaux blends and Cabernets . There
is an advance in judgement, how the wine is made, less oak, better fruit and
acids are better than 10 years ago. More wines had their own balance and people
are not frightened of green herbs and pyrazines. Rather that than grapes are
pushed to over ripeness and then added acid is needed to balance. There are
some outstanding world class wines in the Cabernets and Bordeaux class.
James Pietersen
This is his 8th year as a judge.
Lots of fun with the international judges. There is such diversification of SA
wines , a willingness to experiment, to have more fun, new varietals being tested
and used with good results. Lots of excitement with wines using Duro, Rhone and
Italian varietals. The market movement from heavy extracted wines with tannins
to ore playful delicate wines with more detailing offer more drinking pleasure.
Christian Eedes
says he usually plays the Bad Cop.
Chardonnay showed exceptionally well, it's a great grape which in South Africa
responds well to the right site and good wine making. 20 Pinot Noirs were exciting,
200 Pinotages were generally dreadful, it has got stuck again. Different
industry sectors with new wave Pinot Noir. Old school Pinotages are not showing
sensitivity, thoughtfulness too ambitious, overdone, ham-fisted We need to
encourage a lightness of touch. Leaf roll virus and the drought are badly
affecting the industry. We must take a view: is Cabernet the best grape to
plant in drought affected areas? No. In the cool climate areas Pinot Noir producers
are working really hard. There are 2
or 3 golds in the Pinotage class so there are people who are applying some thoughtfulness,
they are a small minority.
During the short question time Eduardo was asked
what he thought of Pinotage: Scary, so difficult to understand, made in so many
different directions, so concentrated green, over extracted. He is looking for
subtlety, difficult to find gently and light wines they are there we need to go
deeper. John asked should we be more area specific with them? Christian - still
traumatised, said its not about the site. Nadia said approach is the issue, the
style that is being produced is not helping the glass, huge black fruit with
tarry oak, not commercial. Eduardo added: they are not getting awards from the
judges. The top ten however might get a Trophy.
Tips please asked someone in the audience about
Blanc Fumé - wooded
Sauvignon Blancs. Support with oak but not too much, and only a limited amount
of new wood. Use good Sauvignon Blanc, your best, intense wines from the best
sites but only use a small percentage and experiment with it and the size of
barrels . Start small, use and work the lees, but don't roll the barrels, lay a
bit. Now we are going to need a new category for wooded Sauvignon Blancs, a new
Trophy.
Wood was used sometimes in the past to cover up
problems . This is not happening how Francois said personality comes with time,
oak is a supporting role.
Was there excitement on Chenin it was asked? The
wines were exiting with good acidity and brightness of fruit. Spontaneous
ferment, vibrant attention grabbing wines. In no way were those overwhelmed by
the Chardonnays.
What about the White Blends of Sauvignon Semillon
, exotic Chenin blends, Rhone varietals. There is a very worthy trophy.
Sweeter wines, Port style? The quality is
superlative, every bit as good as 10 years ago, but it is a struggling class worldwide,
we must help it survive.
Funky flavours, naturally made wines vs old
methods? James commented that they are not letting wines through that are weird
and wonderful.
What about Rosé wines, what
is the direction to go? Heidi Mäkinen said Rosé
is trending worldwide, it should be taken seriously and made to pair with food
with structure. Enough of that bulk in the world we need a restrained style,
gentleness not over extracted and with good acidity. Christian commented that
Rosé is not really a wine. 1 million
litres to keep the business running, what is your intention? It is difficult to
make a gold medal wine. How ambitious can you get? Grapes should be grown
specifically, said Heidi. She commented that at 67 Pall Mall where she works
they don't sell blush wines. Heidi Duminy said Rosé
is the fasted growing market. There are a handful of seriously styles but they
are few and an expensive niche with niche results. Its growing in the bubbly
field too, with skin contact or a blend, the consumer expectation of fine rosé
is delicate rather than full.
Michael's final comment was that wine is a middle
class indulgence, it lubricates the wheels of the economy and is an important
factor in it. It has been a good competition this year with lots of good wine
Leon Coetzee, The Fledge, discussing his wines with Eduardo Brethauer
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
