Thursday, April 04, 2019

Harvest lunch at Creation, Hemel en Aarde

We love what we do and we love the people who help us to do what we do. John mentioned that it has been a bit quiet in the wine and food world and immediately we got some great invitations. The first was from Carolyn Martin at Creation wines to come and enjoy their Harvest Lunch. And a friend saw the invitation and offered their cottage for an overnight stay. So off we went to the beautiful Hemel and Aarde valley again, on a sunny but slightly chilly day. We seem to have an early Autumn
They have new sculptures by Nanette Ranger adorning the gardens and the restaurant/tasting rooms. We wrote of her work when we visited earlier this year. These two next to the entrance are enchanting
We arrived earlier than expected, at midday, as the N2 National road from Cape Town was surprisingly quick and were seated on the VIP table. They know how to spoil us
Autumnal vineyards and the Babilonstoren Mountain; Jean Claude Martin, the Cellarmaster/owner, said they would finish picking the following day. In fine weather, the terrace is a great place on which to enjoy everything the estate offers
Out on the terrace, where staff were moving umbrellas for shade
We were so well looked after by Jo-Ann Corbett, who explained all the dishes and the wine pairings we were to have with them. The Harvest Menu will change to the new Winter Menu at the beginning of May, so do get there to try this extravaganza of flavours and wine pairings if you can. It costs only R579 per person for 5 courses, with 8 paired wines. Because we write about their wine and food, we were treated to a few more - they do spoil us
The wine prices on an order form on the table
The Harvest menu
You begin with Chapter 1: the Sensory Tasting: Creation 2018 Sauvignon Blanc and the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon. Before we tasted the wine, we were persuaded to smell the cut granadilla and the salt. We found both those flavours in the wine. Both wines have classic Sauvignon pyrazines on the nose, with green pepper, herbs and tropical guava and granadilla on the palate. On the blend, the Semillon shows with grass on the nose and a much rounder palate with wood notes. Both are crisp and have minerality echoing the salt
Time for the bread course and it comes with a salsa of cucumber, melon, tomato, onion and pineapple to go with the puri bread and a whipped cream and goat cheese to go with the wine bread
The breads come to the table in a small sack and are served warm. You stuff the hollow puri with the salsa and eat it in one. It is black, as it is made with carbon powder
It tasted of good flour and goes well with the salsa
The wine bread is made with the grape must from the Shiraz and has a lovely sourdough texture, with some added crunch. John decided to put both on his bread. The cream cheese was light and fluffy and the goat flavour was gentle
This lovely pine tree caught the eye of the photographer. Lots of different green textures
JC Martin came to sit and chat, even though he was still busy with harvest. He said that his lads could cope without him for a while. We chatted about the wine, the harvest, the valley, the climate and put the world to rights politically. We are very grateful for his time. Carolyn is in Europe on a sales trip
He introduced us to his new 2018 Cool Climate Chenin Blanc, from grapes grown on another farm. They will be making this regularly and we can see why. It is very good. It has a classic dusty Chenin nose and is full of zingy granadilla and cooked apple
We were brought a course off another menu, one of the Small Plate pairings because it went so well with the Sauvignon Semillon and also the Chenin. Jo-Ann said that when she eats it, she thinks she is eating fish and chips. And, indeed, it does have that affect on the palate. Sous Vide tender sole fillet in a crisp potato and herb crust (the chips), served with minty mushy peas. The added lightly pickled cucumber and onion, caper berries, and lemon mayonnaise are the deconstructed tartar sauce! Very clever Chef!
Chapter 2: Creation Celebration pairs the 2018 Rose, a blend of Grenache and Viognier - fruity and crisp, notes of cranberry and a little white peach - with a small cup of cucumber and mint soup
Beautifully plated, topped with a sorrel leaf or two and served cold
Chapter 3 is Creation Inspiration which pairs the 2017 Creation Reserve Chardonnay with a Pork Fillet. We were lucky, we could pair the pork with all three of Creation's Chardonnays. The 2017 Estate and Reserve and The Art of Chardonnay 2017. All are very good and all three work with the dish, but the Reserve was the best match. The Art is still very young and will be singing in a few years time
The Pork fillet is served with a celeriac purée, charred fennel strips, and apple served three ways: pickled in cubes, an apple espuma and a crisp apple chip. All the flavours echo the wines. It is a satisfying dish, served with the absolutely correct wine
Chapter 4 Creation Ovation pairs Creation Reserve Pinot Noir 2017 with the Duck dish
Again, we were treated to not one Pinot Noir but also the 2018 Estate and 2017 The Art of Pinot Noir
Liver Mousse on top of a tender pulled confit Duck leg, separated by a slice of lightly pickled beetroot, fresh raspberries, a Thyme jus and some sorrel. We can say without any hesitation that this is the best pairing of Pinot Noir and Duck we have ever had. It was sublime. And while the dish was rich and creamy and meaty, it did not take away the taste of the wonderful Pinots which remained on the palate. If only we could get the aroma and taste into the picture for you. The fresh raspberry lit up the Pinot Noir as did the jus and the rich mousse. It brought out the herbal notes in the wines, violets, intense raspberry and soft wood notes. All three sang
Another table trying to decide
The Small Plate Pairing Menu on offer that day, paired with wines
Chapter 5: Creation Generations. Now this was fun, a great learning experience and a superb way to challenge your palate. On the left, powdered licorice root, on the right, sumac, a sour berry grown in the Mediterranean that adds zing to food. We used to sell both at Main Ingredient so are familiar with them, but pairing them with these three wines was such fun. We think the licorice root adds something to the wines, sweetness and saltiness and depth. The sumac less so, but both certainly make you want more wine and more food. The syrah is dark, with pepper and cassis and spice and some cherry on the palate with savouriness and some dark wood. the Syrah Grenache takes much from the Grenache with ripeness and good wild plummy notes; umami flavours complement the food. The Sumac Grenache was an extra, so we could taste it and it has the same wildness, slightly sweeter than the first two, full on fruit with a zing of acidity and umami. All went very well with the next dish
They were served with Sous Vide Rabbit loin with a Parsley farce, dots of carrot purée, and beetroot purée, slices of summer truffle and a rich smoked paprika jus. And with this dish we also sampled the first vintage of the Creation blend of Roussanne (80%) and Viognier (20%) which is also a very good match for this dish. Peaches and sesame notes on the nose, and quince on the palate, lots of wildness with layers of interest and complexity. A winner. It washed away the beetroot, but highlighted all the good meaty flavours of the dish. Suddenly South Africa is showing some great Roussannes
Vines turning colour with the onset of Autumn
You can also enjoy a Dessert pairing
Chapter 6: Creation Dedication. Presented with the Port style wine, called Creation Fine Cape Vintage 2017 made from Shiraz
We liked and enjoyed this so much that we have made it our Wine of the Week
It is better than many of the young Ports we tasted in Portugal last year, which lacked depth and complexity. This has concentration of flavour, sweetness and spice balanced with rich plums and vanilla, black cherry, good fruit acids, richness, and warmth from the KWV brandy added. The perfect match for rich chocolate and dark berry desserts
This is served with a Black Tea and chocolate ganache, on a pear purée, covered in a blackberry and Hazelnut dust with thyme. Topped with a pear crisp, it is rich and does echo some of the flavours of the rich port style wine. Dangerously, they left the bottle with us; we resisted but not for long
And then another special - an extra dessert, with drama. A black chocolate sponge, fresh figs, a raspberry coulis and a speculaas ice cream. The dish is hidden below large slices of good dark chocolate and the warm coulis is poured on top, so the chocolate melts revealing the contents, a blend of hot and cold delights
We took a video so that you could be part of the theatre
Totally decadent and absolutely a match, made to go with the Cape Vintage
Happiness is being at Creation enjoying wine and food pairings
Chef Francois Hugo
A double Espresso and cookies for John. Lynne had a pot of excellent Green tea, a great digestif

Wednesday, April 03, 2019

A morning walk in the Hemel en Aarde

Carolyn Martin of Creation responded to something we had written and invited us, on Facebook, to visit the farm again and sample their Harvest MENU. A dear friend, who has a cottage in the Hemel en Aarde, chipped in with an offer of accommodation

Waking up quite early the next morning, with Lynne enjoying a little "lie-in", I took advantage of a crisp autumn morning to take a little walk in this very attractive part of the Hemel en Aarde Valley

The mountain appearing through the clearing mist as a pair of herons flies up the valley
Small dams have been made across the Onrus River, creating ponds
Waterblommetjies (Aponogeton distachyos L.f.) are very good to eat in a stew
Our indigenous Blue Water Lily , Nymphaea Caerulea, is very prolific in these ponds
Waterblomme, waterlilies and reeds on the Onrus River ponds
Reeds and trees below the Babilonstoren Mountain
Bamboo fronds, drifting mist
 and a manicured lawn
Our wild iris Dietes grandiflora
Port St Johns creeper, pink trumpet vine Podranea ricasoliana
Fresh quinces, picked from the tree; wonderful baked

Friday, March 29, 2019

This Week's MENU. Active Sushi, Ken Forrester, Kleinood, Banoffee Pie, Kleinood Viognier, Forrester Old Vine Chenin

Fishing on the rocks near Gansbaai, Western Cape

This is wine country and the harvest is near its end. We hear that the quality is generally good because we have had a long, cool ripening time, but we are still in the middle of a drought and the volume of the harvest is quite low. The weather experts are predicting another winter of low rainfall, so don’t think that, because the dams are at about 75% of capacity, we have enough water. Brace yourself for another season of water restrictions along with the promise of more “load-shedding” as people switch on their electric heaters. We have just ordered a truck load of firewood to fuel the little wood-burning stove which warms our house. The carbon emission from that is much less than all the partially operative power stations working with poor quality coal to try and keep up with demand for power. So do your best to conserve energy, water and all the necessary resources, but, Importantly, do your best to have fun, eat well and drink the good stuff. Enjoy the weekend, support your local wine merchant and bistro. They need you

The need for regular intake of Sushi is compelling, so this week we tried a new place in town called Active Sushi. They must have the worst signage we have ever seen - or not seen as you can see from this photo. Yes that white haze is the name in neon. It is in a cursive script that is almost impossible to read from the street when you are driving slowly past. They are in the Portside Building, 4 Bree Street. The wind was howling and we found parking very easily at 7 pm

An invitation from Kleinood Wine Estate in Stellenbosch to visit them and taste their Tamboerskloof wines was happily accepted. We arrived as asked at 11 and were boisterously greeted by three lovely, friendly Bouviers des Flandres, belonging to the owners, engineer Gerard de Villiers and his wife Libby, who is an architect. Gerard de Villiers is famous in the wine industry for the superb wineries he designs. And Kleinood is a Green farm doing everything possible to put back into the earth what they take out. Kleinood means something small and precious and this 12 hectare farm certainly is that. The story of how they do this is on line and is so worth reading….

We received an invitation to visit Ken Forrester Wines in Stellenbosch to see the new tasting facility, taste the Chenin Blancs and then have lunch at 96 Winery Road. A lovely welcome was a glass of their Sparkle Horse Chenin Blanc bubbly, poured for us by Roxanne Martin…

On the MENU This Week. Banoffee Pie
It is frustrating when, after a good restaurant meal, you simply have no room for dessert and you see one of your favourites on the menu. This happened to Lynne recently and it doesn’t happen often, as she rarely orders dessert, unless it’s an old favourite like this. We know you all do a lot of entertaining in summer, despite the hot weather. Lynne thought she would give you a simple but delicious recipe which takes very little time or effort to make, as many of the ingredients could come from your store cupboard or a quick trip to a local supermarket. Might work well at the coming public holidays. And NO, it is not slimming or Banting

MENU’s Wines of the Week. Kleinood 2018 Viognier. 
and a wine we wish you could taste is  
Ken Forrester 2007 Old Vines Chenin
The Kleinood Viognier, we think, is one of the top three wines from that varietal produced in South Africa at the moment. It is hand-picked on different dates to ensure that the wine reflects the full flavour spectrum of the grape. It is wood fermented and now has 11% Roussane added. It is full of peaches and apricots, with perfume and incense from the wood on the nose. Crisp and fruity with some complexity, the Roussanne shows as an added component and is discernible. There is just a golden touch of oak; peaches and cream remain on the palate. Delicious. Definitely a wine for spicy, complex food and with seafood. R156 per bottle or R936 per case of 6 from the estate


At Ken Forrester, we had a huge treat. A bottle of the 2007 Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc was opened to see how well it ages. It was very impressive; we were encouraging Shawn Mathyse, the Cellar Controller, to enter this into major competitions that have vintage awards. We wish you could taste it. It was so good. A nose of golden fruit and golden oak with hints of Riesling and some of Chardonnay. On the palate, richness in spades, truly amazing deep flavours of cooked apple and quince, long and in balance, it is so memorable. We predict it will win new awards and demonstrates how well our white wines can age. Do try the current vintage, it is also a great wine.  




29th March 2019


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The new Ken Forrester tasting room; lunch at 96 Winery Road, Stellenbosch

We received an invitation to visit Ken Forrester Wines in Stellenbosch to see the new tasting facility, taste the Chenin Blancs and then have lunch at 96 Winery Road. A lovely welcome was a glass of their Sparkle Horse Chenin Blanc bubbly, poured for us by Roxanne Martin
It spends 9 months on the lees, 9 months in the tank, and 18 months in the bottle
and is full of crisp apple and pear flavours with a zingy mousse
The tasting room renovation is finished and we really liked the feel of the room
It is relaxing, informal and comfortable, with doors open to the outside terrace
Soft colours, lovely terrazzo tiles on the floor and a big leather sofa to collapse into
This was the old barrel cellar, but it has been repurposed to welcome you
The new barrel cellar is now next door
The first thing we spotted was barrels of wines destined to be blended into the 2019 FMC
Officially Forrester Meinert Chenin, but it also has its informal name, F'ng Marvellous Chenin
Caroline van Schalkwyk's intern Nicola, PR Consultant Caroline, Lynne and Shawn Mathyse, the Cellar Controller
We moved outside to a table on the shady terrace with lovely mountain views across the vineyards
We began with the Petit Chenin, their commercial bottling, which you will find in many supermarkets, wine shops
and on many wine lists. It is very affordable and pumps quite a bit above its station. Rounded, crisp and satisfying
A range of home made biscuits, sold in the shop. The biscuits with the herbs are made with butter and cheese
and a little flour....! OMG. Much nicer than water biscuits
Then the Ken Forrester 2017 Old Vines Reserve Chenin Blanc and a huge treat, a bottle of the 2007 to see how it ages. It was very impressive; we were encouraging Shawn to enter this into major competitions that have vintage awards. The 2017 is pale yellow with a perfume of pears; it has a crisp tingle on the tongue, hints of wood and long flavours of ripe apple and plum. The 2007 is our Vintage Wine of the Week. We wish you could taste. It was so good. A nose of golden fruit and golden oak with hints of Riesling and some of Chardonnay. On the palate, richness in spades, truly amazing deep flavours of cooked apple and quince, long and in balance, it is so memorable. We predict it will win new awards
Time to try the FMC. The 2017 has a good balance of residual sugar, balanced by fruit acidity, Incense wood, it has spent 12 months on the lees with selective pickings throughout the harvest, (7 on this particular vintage) The perfume is worthy of a dash behind one’s ears, like good Chanel. It has a lovely mouthfeel, is complex and layered with a touch of honey flavour and texture from the botrytis on the last picking. They then blend different barrels of different pickings, and different zones until they get the final perfect blend of Chenin. The 2015 has a golden nose, hints of oak, more Chardonnay than Chenin at present. It has elegance and incense wood, long deep flavours of lime, lemon and apple and just waiting to mature. A food wine for sure
The 2018 FMC (not yet bottled) is a spicy Chenin with some wood notes on the nose, ripe apples, plums, long & deep with good acidity to balance the sugars, lemon, lime and that wonderful hint of honey botrytis. Can’t wait to see how this matures
Then a preview of the Dirty Little Secret Two. Made from grapes which are sourced from very old dry land vineyards in the Piekenierskloof region, planted in 1965. This wine is a blend of grapes from 8 different vineyards and three different vintages. Made to age, a 20 year wine. So complex with cooked apples, almost a Tarte Tatin on the nose. Round and full on the palate and then an amazing fruit burst on the tongue. The acid/fruit/sugar balance is perfect. And it says loudly "Put me with food, rich, expensive food please." A WOW wine. And it will be costly, the One was around R1000 a bottle
We then were given a taste of the Roussanne 2016. Riesling-like on the nose but not terpened, with hints from wood one new barrel was used. At first, a Rock n Roll wine, a bit wild and naughty, then it turns serious and says "Pay Attention"! A lovely oak hint on the palate, with peach and pale mulberry; hints of herbs and lime. Another of Ken's food wines. Well he is a gourmet, and that is what he and we love

Next we moved to the restaurant owned by Ken and his brother Allan, 96 Winery Road, which is just down the road from the wine farm. The good news is that 96 Winery Road is one of the Winelands restaurants taking part in Restaurant Week 'Autumn Edition' 2019 (18 April - 5 May). Don’t forget to book, you will love this food
Meat being dry aged in the fridge; Wagyu prime rib on the left and Chalmar sirloin on the right
So you now know where to go for great meat in the Cape
The Menu
You can choose the tasting menu and it is very good value
The Chef's Specials of the Day
and on the table, The Barrel 2017, 100% Mourvedre made in two American oak barrels, fined with egg white, and not filtered. They bottled 170 x 1.5 litre magnums and 10 x 3 litres double magnums, one of which was served to us. Perfumed dark fruit with spice on the nose, full-on dark fruit on the palate, vanilla oak, a little chocolate, wildness, mulberries, rhubarb, cherries and good warm alcohol 14.5. So good with meat dishes and amazingly approachable for such a young red wine
The back of the bottle - story of its naissance
Freshly baked mosbolletjies with good olive oil. Perfection
The New Style Sashimi in a sweet, hot, sour Asian sauce topped with mayo, sesame seeds. spring onions and ginger
Refreshing and very good fish
You should have seen the envy in the eyes of those of us who did not order the starter of Pork Belly. Look at that crackling!
Lynne ordered the crisp Panko calamari, with cous cous and a Parmesan cream, So tender inside the crisp coating
Louw Strydom, Ken Forrester’s Commercial Manager with Allan Forrester
The Venison Carpaccio topped with rocket and Parmesan cheese
A main course of the fish of the day, which was oven baked kingklip on a bed of mixed vegetables
Lynne went against her usual choices and had the 200g Hollandse steak with a pepper cream sauce and those really irresistibly crisp chips. Cooked medium rare as ordered, it was tender and the aged beef was so impressive in flavour, as was the rich peppery sauce
Another envied dish was John's Duck and Cherry Pie, a fixture on the menu. He has been eating it for years (first at Ken’s previous restaurant Gatrile’s in Johannesburg) and he cannot resist ordering it each time we come to 96 Winery Road. The chef has changed it slightly in that now it is a stand alone pie, which resembles a wine amphora. Previously, one was served a slice from a much larger pie
The pastry is buttery, crisp and flaky and the contents just as expected, rich duck and sharp cherries
No one could manage dessert, but coffees were ordered before we departed, very replete