Wednesday, November 20, 2019

MENU's UK Adventure 16. Falmouth and more Rick Stein; Fowey, then off to London

Nearing the end of our week in Cornwall we decided to push the boat out a bit
and visit another Rick Stein restaurant, this time in nearby Falmouth
It seems that the last time we visited we didn’t go far enough into the town. And the sun was sparkling on the sea

It was the weekend, so many people were attracted to this pretty port

England has always been a seagoing nation and, judging by the number of boats, they still like going on the water

We parked in the centre of town and, after rather a long walk through the town
and losing our way a couple of times, because the satnav on our phones misdirected us,
we arrived on the quayside near this large wharfside building. just in time for our booking at Rick Stein Fish

Warmly welcomed by the staff and manager, we were ushered to our seats

The restaurant has lots of light and space; it feels relaxed and not at all pretentious
No blaring music, thank heavens. Lots of wood and natural fabrics
It is not a complicated menu and the prices are very reasonable
John was tempted by the mussels, Lynne by the Crab Linguine,
but then we spotted the tasting board going to someone's table
and we realised we could have a taste of several dishes on the menu in one go
So we ordered one each

and when we saw the wine list, we had to giggle and send a quick WhatsApp
to winemaker Matthew Copeland at Vondeling to ask if he knew his Rosé was on Rick Stein's wine list?
He didn’t and was extremely happy. Sorry Matthew, but we didn’t order it -
we love it and drink a lot of it at home, but wanted to try the Granfort from France
(French Rosés always bring extremely happy memories of our visits to the South of France)
and  Rosé goes with so many different foods - and we couldn't ignore the £8 (R110) price difference!

We ordered the 500 ml carafe and the menu description was right about the raspberry and strawberry fruit,
so enjoyable with the food. Very good glasses

The tasting board. L to R, the Padron peppers, covered in flaked salt and like a food version of Sauvignon Blanc
they are not at all hot, just delicious
The calamari were crisply battered with semolina and tender soft within
Then two huge prawns covered in what resembled the amazing Prego sauce we used to sell in Main Ingredient,
which was made for us by Chef Pete Ayub; we got nice and messy getting involved with them
removing the shells with firm and sweet flesh inside (Yes, finger bowls were provided)
A classic Greek salad, well dressed and with good creamy feta
and two warm battered balls of salt cod and parsley on an aioli dressing
We were going to order main courses, but this was delicious, filling and very satisfying

The restaurant soon filled up with people who looked like relaxed holiday makers

The bar was busy and the staff attentive. We had a chat with the manager about the food and the restaurant
If you visit Falmouth, we thoroughly recommend it. With a tip, the bill came to £55 = approximately R1073
Not bad for lunch with wine for two

On the seashore, more young kelp gulls

learning to catch thermals

The town's streets are narrow and filled with interesting shops

This gull could not believe its luck

The anchor chains were covered in live mussels and the gulls were eating their fill, and more

We walked past a restaurant in the high street called Amanzi

We thought you might be amused to see the menu
for those homesick Africans, some very familiar food including monkey gland steak,
a spicy, fruity sauce served with steak, (no monkeys involved!) an SA speciality
Bobotie is very common in the UK, especially in pubs but they amusingly call it "bobbity"
No, we didn’t eat there
We think that the prices show that the Rick Stein Restaurant is not expensive compared to other local restaurants

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The next day we set off for Fowey. This is the view of the coastline looking North East from the turnoff to Mevagissey

Some friendly cows in the field came to greet John

Fowey is another seaside town on an estuary. If you have watched The Coroner (UK version) on TV,
we have been told that some of it was filmed here

Parking was an absolute nightmare but we managed to find a place on the front eventually, near this slipway
Embarrassingly our car alarm kept going off. "Someone" had not closed the back door properly
That’s when you thank alarms,
as we did have things in the car that could have been stolen had we not found the open door

Some lovely Georgian houses; this one impressed
The Scallop Shell House in Fowey. It marks the site of a medieval resting place and the embarcation point
for hundreds of pilgrims leaving for the Camino de Santiago (The Way of St James) in Spain
The canopy above the door is a large scallop shell which has long been the symbol of the Camino de Santiago
It’s said that, after St James' death, his disciples shipped his body to the Iberian Peninsula
to be buried in what is now Santiago
Off the coast of Spain, on the way there, a heavy storm hit the ship
and St James's body was lost overboard into the sea
After some time however, it washed ashore undamaged and covered in scallops
The shell also served practical purposes for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago
It was the right size for gathering water to drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl

Buildings of different ages and upper floors overhanging the street
The sign says that it's the oldest house in Fowey; it is now a micro-brewery

The tidal river flows peacefully out to sea

We had sandwiches sitting out on the front with a beer from a local pub

Then back to our AirBnB for our last afternoon in Mevagissey. We wanted scones, cream and jam one last time,
so we bought some scones and some clotted cream and enjoyed them in our sunny garden

Dinner that night was this half a crispy Gressingham Duck from Sainsburys
It cost £6 (approx R117) and all Lynne had to do was spread some of the supplied hoisin sauce on the skin,
roast for half an hour and shred
They also provided the perfect pancakes. All we had to add was some shredded spring onions
It was absolutely superb
Half a Peking duck in Cape Town costs upward of R300, if you can find it in a Chinese restaurant
The selection of ready-made or "cook briefly at home" food in UK supermarkets is quite fantastic
and prices are not as high as we are currently paying. One can indeed see why many in Europe are not cooking much at home with this selection of good food on hand

And then it was time to head for London. It was quite a long trip up the A303/M3, a very familiar road to both of us
And thank heavens for SatNav;

we arrived on time at our friend Angela Redman's house in Wimbledon

Like many in Britain she has renovated her Victorian house and made it open plan at the back
which gives a lovely large living area and spacious kitchen with light flooding in from the garden though the bifold doors and skylight

We are of course discussing what wine to have with supper
She is such an amazing hostess and cooked superb meals for us each night while we stayed with her
We are very thankful to have had such a warm welcome and such a stylish and comfortable place to stay

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All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

Friday, November 15, 2019

This Week’s MENU. Neethlingshof; Champagne; Eden Project, Padstow, Port Isaac in Cornwall; Wine & Recipe of the Week


We are pretty dedicated omnivores. We eat a wide range of foods and endeavour to enjoy a very balanced diet – within the constraints imposed by frequent meals at events and in restaurants. So it was interesting to be offered a vegan three course meal at a wine estate restaurant last week, a restaurant which does have vegan dishes as part of their portfolio. So that is part of this week’s MENU, along with a Champagne event and more stories about Cornwall. We enjoyed it all and hope that you will enjoy our stories


Gauteng readers can enjoy Wade Bales Cap Classique & Gin Affair at the Southern Sun in Hyde Park Rooftop Terrace Bar, on  Saturday 23rd November from 3-7 pm and Sunday 24th November from 1-5 pm. Book your tickets today at QUICKET TICKETS
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Vintage launch and Vegan lunch at Neethlingshof, Stellenbosch
An invitation to visit Neethlingshof to taste their newly released white wines, some of their current red wines and some barrel samples followed by lunch was quickly accepted. It is rather a long time since we last visited and tasted the wines of winemaker De Wet Viljoen. Read on…

Wine Concepts French Champagne Festival was an even better success this year than in the past. Why? They changed it to a Saturday afternoon affair and it was much appreciated by the guests who came in their droves.  How special to spend an afternoon tasting the top Champagne marques and enjoying some canapes for R500 a person, cheaper than a bottle of a single Champagne marque. Read on…


Mevagissey is only a few miles away from the Eden Project, which is an educational charity.  Inside two massive connected biomes, covered in plastic, are plants that are collected from many diverse climates and environments, including South Africa. The project is located in a reclaimed china clay pit, located 5 km from the larger town of St Austell, which you go through to get to Mevagissey. It was started in 1998 and completed in 2001. Its purpose is to demonstrate the importance of plants to people and to promote sustainable use of plant resources. Read on… 


Even though he had visited Cornwall several times, John had never visited Padstow, so Lynne wanted to show it to him. She has spent many happy days there, walking along the cliffs and then finding a good pub to have a good beer with mates and a pasty from the Rock Bakery on the other side of the estuary. Padstow is a very popular town and is well known for having several Rick Stein restaurants. We love his cooking programmes and his recipes have become standards in our home. Read on…

On the MENU this week. Fennel and Pear Salad

It seems that we may be about to enjoy a period of warmer weather, so it is back to eating salads for us. This is something very easy to put together and rather unusual. We think you will like it. If you have a mandolin grater, it makes thinly shaving the fennel very easy. Read on...
which is full of green pepper pyrazines, fig leaves and granadilla on an intense nose. Crisp and round on the attractive palate with some sweetness mid palate, green peppers, lime and guava. We enjoyed this wine so much; it is an excellent example of a good Cape Sauvignon Blanc. It went so well with food too. And the price is affordable. R80 on the farm

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Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in our website and ancillary works are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are often unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise

On the MENU this week. Fennel and Pear Salad

It seems that we may be about to enjoy a period of warmer weather, so it is back to eating salads for us. This is something very easy to put together and rather unusual. We think you will like it. If you have a mandolin grater, it makes thinly shaving the fennel very easy


The original recipe has watercress instead of rocket in the dressing. We can no longer get watercress in South Africa as it is an invasive species and I found that peppery rocket works just as well. Do not overcook the potatoes, if you can get the waxy ones, they work well. 
175g fennel, thinly sliced - 2 ripe pears, peeled and diced – 225g diced cooked potato – 50g toasted almonds, roughly chopped
Combine the above ingredients
Dressing: 150ml soured cream – 15ml lemon juice – 30g rocket
6 spring onions, chopped – salt and pepper
Blend these in a liquidiser, then lightly toss the salad with the dressing, adjust seasoning and serve.

MENU’s Wine of the Week is Neethlingshof Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2019


which is full of green pepper pyrazines, fig leaves and granadilla on an intense nose. Crisp and round on the attractive palate with some sweetness mid palate, green peppers, lime and guava

We enjoyed this wine so much, it is an excellent example of a good Cape Sauvignon Blanc. It went so well with food too. And the price is affordable. R80 on the farm

MENU's UK Adventure 15. Chasing Rick Stein to Padstow; a visit to Port Isaac

Even though he had visited Cornwall several times, John had never visited Padstow, so Lynne wanted to show it to him
She has spent many happy days there, walking along the cliffs and then finding a good pub to have a good beer with mates.... 

and a pasty from the Rock Bakery on the other side of the estuary. The tide was out

Padstow is a very popular town and is well known for having several Rick Stein restaurants
We love his cooking programmes and his recipes have become standards in our home

Bold young kelp gulls are everywhere

Parking is along the front on the extreme right
So we walked into town trying to find the Rick Stein Fish and Chips restaurant

A long view of Rock, across the bay

We wandered around for ages, up hills and down many streets being misled (again) by our satnav
Eventually, we found Stein's Patisserie, selling all sorts of tempting things;
we asked them how to find the restaurant we wanted
They were very helpful, but we were not pleased by the answer
Just our luck. It was back along the quayside, near where we had parked the car!
Still, it meant we had seen quite a lot of Padstow

It’s in a huge old wooden warehouse building that has been modernised
The Seafood Bar & Fishmongers looked good, but we had set our sights on fish and chips

If only our local fish suppliers looked as fresh and good as this

Found it, further down in the same building
Lots of beers, wines and cider for sale as well as soft drinks and water

Prices above the 'bar'. We ordered one hake and one cod in batter with chips
And two local India Pale Ales, which came in the bottle! No glasses or cups
They apparently have gone green, so if you hate drinking beer out of a bottle, as we do, take your own glasses
John did manage to nick one last plastic cup from the counter (which, of course, being green ourselves, we recycled later)
The fish is all cooked in beef dripping; our SA doctor and “fishatarians” might have a fit at that, but it was very good batter
We could see seats to the right of the kitchen, but we were not permitted to sit there
"No", we were told, "that is separate, you have to eat round the back of the building in the open air"
We had obviously missed the fact that the take away and the sit down sections are separate,
even though they share a kitchen
It would have cost us £1 extra each to sit down in comfort
And rules is rules..., even though we’d offered to pay the extra pound

Thank heavens it wasn’t raining. Around the back of the building,
there are some picnic tables and we managed to find seats, eventually
We halved the fish, so each of us had a taste of each fish;
it was superbly fresh and pearly, just as it should be and had great flavour
The crisp batter is a little greasy and we got nice and messy, eating with our fingers
The chips could be crisper; we did ask for them to be crisp,
but they were not, and being packed beneath the steaming fish softens them more

The tide was coming in fast,

filling up the harbour. We decided to head up the coast to Port Isaac
(aka Portwenn, where Doc Martin and the movie Fisherman’s Friends have been filmed)

Lynne is a fan of Doc Martin, but that was not the purpose of our visit to this beautiful fishing village
A good friend of hers, Nick Farmer, had lived there with his mother for years. Nick, sadly, died last year
The view from the car park is superb; you can see a long way up the coast

and you see buildings that are familiar from TV shows

The wind was fresh and the gulls were having such fun catching the breeze off the cliffs

A Port Isaac scene many will recognise

You have to park quite a way out of town and then walk down the steep streets to the centre

A view of the town beach

Was this ever a chemist? We like the name "May Contain Nuts" on the bakery

Tiny narrow streets, we missed seeing the four laughing lasses

Stand back against the wall; cars passing in the narrow lane

A view from the beach. Nick had lived above the cliff to the right. We hope he had a happy life there

Even dogs like the Cornish ice cream, so rich and creamy

Lots of good long cliff walks in the area

There are many B&Bs in the area

Many make a pilgrimage to the Doc's house, the little one on the left
The big house on the right was a BnB in Fisherman's Friends
We had to head 'home' back to Mevagissey via Bodmin, having made our own pilgrimage to remember a good friend

All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus