What a way to break a long fast. We were among the 50 individuals who were sent an invitation to be part of the story of South African Pinotage and to celebrate its 60th anniversary. We have been in a very long drought as far as stories to cover are concerned and this was a very good way to get back into the flow. Covid has changed things so much in the industry. The invitation read: "Let’s celebrate the 60th Anniversary of a courageous beginning. A collaboration between two historic estates, which led to the establishment of an enduring South African icon. Lanzerac and Bellevue Estates are celebrating and want you to join us."
Pinotage has a long and very interesting history and
Lanzerac and Bellevue have published a very well written story on line for you
to read. Just click on the link: https://storyofpinotage.co.za/history-of-pinotage/
We also really liked the story written by Trudi Webb of wine.co.za:
https://wine.co.za/page/page.aspx?PAGEID=2417
The Lanzerac manor house, viewed from the gate
We were told that unless we dressed in the style of the 1950s
we would not be admitted, so we went as 1950s teens in denim and T shirts; John
even Brylcreemed his hair and Lynne sported a ponytail, we remember it well
having been teenagers in the 50s. We met on the lawn outside the Cellar Hall
for a glass of Cap Classique and some canapés
The programme for the day
Our favourite style of bubbles has always been a Blanc de
Blanc (100% Chardonnay) nice and crisp and dry
This is a good expression of
the style
Canapés of Duck Pâté between two crisp layers of truffled
melba toast with a cognac jelly were much enjoyed
As were these tiny crisp flaky pastry vol au vents of smoked
salmon
There were also Oysters on the Rocks
Neethlingshof cellarmaster De Wet Viljoen and publicist
Emile Joubert
Christian Eedes of Winemag and Andre Morgenthal of the Old
Vines Project
Before we went into the lecture theatre we had a choice of
caramel popcorn or candyfloss
Nicely socially distanced,.. we were able to really catch up
with other media and wine industry folk whom we have not seen for, literally,
years (well, one and a half). Then it was time to watch the informative film
that had been specially made about the creation and history of Pinotage
The year 1925 saw Professor Abraham Izak Perold, the first
Professor of Viticulture at the University of Stellenbosch, successfully cross
two grape varietals, Pinot Noir and Hermitage (Cinsault), to create South
Africa’s first unique and indigenous wine grape variety – Pinotage. Just a few vines were cultivated
and, in the 1950s, some were found and planted out on De Waal (1950), Bellevue (1953)
and Kanonkop (1953) estates
Several years later, Stellenbosch Farmers Winery became
the first winery in the world to use the term ‘Pinotage’ on their label when
they marketed the 1959 vintage, produced under
the name ‘Lanzerac’ The wine was made at Bellevue in the Bottelary ward from the grapes in their vineyard. The wine is believed to have come from the tank that won the General Smuts Trophy for Bellevue earlier that year at the S.A. Young Wine Show, although SFW's blending notes show that some of the 1960 vintage was blended into the wine. This visionary release
marked the birth of Pinotage as a unique variety from South Africa
Today, Bellevue and Lanzerac wine estates, under the leadership of Bellevue's Dirkie Morkel and Lanzerac Cellar
Master, Wynand Lategan (seen here with Bellevue owner Marinus Neethling) and
Farm Manager Danie Malherbe, produce award-winning Pinotage, along
with a wide variety of other excellent quality wines that form part of
Lanzerac’s three tiers – the Premium Range, Heritage Range and Keldermeester
Versameling (Cellar Master Collection)
The collaboration between the farms still growing the
original pinotage grapes has been taking place since 2017
and the wine is being
made at Lanzerac
Bellevue co-owner Dirkie Morkel, seated in the original
vineyard, where the grapes planted in 1953 are still growing in the original
vineyard. These grapes are now being used to produce the wine they were about
to launch and we were to taste. The pinotage block on Bellevue is 2.5 hectares
and produces only 3 tons a hectare each year. We are fortunate enough to have
made two barrels of Pinotage from this vineyard in the Bellevue cellar in 2002
Kanonkop co-owner Johann Krige, who has helped with the
development of this new grape variety and produced top class wines introduced
to our local market and the rest of the world. Kanonkop’s Black Label Pinotage
is made from their 1953 vineyard
DeWaal owner Pieter de Waal told us how the first vines were
planted on his farm in 1950 and how they are still producing good grapes
They were planted on Kanonkop in 1953
The "King" of Pinotage, Beyers Truter is renowned
for producing superb Pinotage
Bellevue Pinotage was earning awards in the 1960s at the Cape
Wine Show in Goodwood Showgrounds
Then it was time to taste the result of five years of making
the historic blend
Suzanne Coetzee of Nuiba Brands introduced the presentation
Dirkie Morkel spoke about Bellevue's involvement
Wynand Grobler, Lanzerac winemaker, took us through the
rather rapid tasting of the wines
The tasting 'menu'
The first wine was the Lanzerac Keldermeester Versameling
(cellarmaster Selection) Prof 2017 which is a Pinot Noir and Cinsault blend
made to see if it resembled Pinotage. Rather vapid on the nose, with cranberry,
mulberry and plum. On the palate, sharp fruit on the tongue with rather unripe
plums and mulberry. Good bones and nice wooding
Second came the Bellevue 2017 Reserve Pinotage. This wine is
not made from the original block of pinotage, but from younger blocks on the
farm. Dark purple in colour, plum and prune fruit on the nose and silky palate
with zingy fruit, and licorice wood on the end
The third wine was the Lanzerac 2018 Pionier Pinotage from
the Jonkershoek valley. Seductive and pretty on the nose, with rose, cherry and
incense wood. A wow on the palate. Heady aromas and flavours of cherry and
berries as you taste, chalky tannins; worth cellaring
The Commemorative Pinotage Experimental Barrel 2017 was next
(they actually made three barrels). Vanilla and almond on the nose with prunes
and cassis. A lovely soft mouthfeel, some zings of fruit acidity with good wood
on the end
The Commemorative Pinotage Experimental Barrel 2018 has an
approachable, dive-in nose, with the Pinot Noir parent playing its part here. Cherries
and berries, incense wood, elegance and restraint. Long deep flavours on the
palate of cherries, cassis and chalky tannins
Beyers Truter tasting the wines
And then (Drum roll) the Commemorative Pinotage Maiden
Vintage 2019 is presented to by us Lanzerac's talented winemaker Wynand
Grobler. “Stories sell wine” says Wynand. This is the first commercial release
of the project. They have replicated the original label from the first Lanzerac
Pinotage at great effort and expense. The original font is no longer available
and had to be recreated. The wine, which is a very limited release, will retail
for R1950 per bottle from the farm
Suzanne Coetzee pours the new commemorative Lanzerac
Pinotage
It spent 16 months in oak. One barrel in French first fill,
the rest in second fill or older. Deep burgundy in colour with incense wood,
hints of violet and rose perfumes and complex cherry fruit. It is young, so the
tight tannins do bite a little, but they indicate that it will last well.
Lovely cherry and red and black berry fruit, with blue plums; the wine had
length and structure. To put away and wait awhile for Pinotage to do its magic
“Cheers to Pinotage” says Beyers Truter
Christine Rudman, who was Principal of the Cape Wine Academy
when we studied for our diplomas in the mid 90s
The team involved:
Mr & Mrs Marinus Neethling, Wynand
Grobler, Dirkie Morkel, Beyers Truter, Maryna Calow and De Wet Viljoen
Time to head to the dining room for lunch
Maryna Calow of Wines of South Africa, very suitably and beautifully
dressed in 1950s style
The full compendium of Bellevue and Lanzerac Pinotages
The lunch menu
This elegant room has a history. When we first knew it, in
the 1960s, it was a most elegant lounge, decorated with very valuable and
beautiful art works and antique furniture. Sadly, in May 2017, a devastating
fire consumed most of the building and everything was lost. The walls have been
left unplastered, exposing the brickwork, which dates back to the 1770s. The
hotel’s owners decided to showcase these ‘battle scars’, along with the charred
remains of previous fires, as well as the most recent one, so that the estate’s
stories can be physically relayed, not covered up again and forgotten
Two of the Lanzerac wines we tasted while waiting for lunch
to be served. They have both scored highly in competition. The Mrs English is a
single vineyard Chardonnay, full of flavours of crisp citrus and just the wine
we needed after such a concentrated red wine morning. We also enjoyed the
Bergstroom Sauvignon Semillon blend, rich and full of kiwi and gooseberry
flavours
And the wine we enjoyed the most with our lunch was the
Bellevue 2017 Pinotage 1953 which is drinking so well now. A classic, well made
Bottelary Pinotage, full of dark fruit in layers, with soft silky tannins and
long complex flavours of cherry and plums. So easy to drink and perfect with
the meal
Tanya Powell and Karien Basson joined us at our table
In keeping with the 1950s era, talented Lanzerac Chef
Stephen Fraser had produced a classic Beef Wellington of tender fillet wrapped
in crisp pastry, accompanied with cauliflower cheese, butter roast potatoes,
carrots, bone marrow on top of the Wellington and onion gravy. So delicious
Dessert was another 1950's classic; Lemon Chiffon Cake
topped with macarons, marinated berries, lemon curd and vanilla ice cream. Lynne
is not a fan of cake but, if they were all as good and fairy light as this, she
would be very happy and perhaps much plumper. It certainly needs reviving as a
modern classic
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