Friday, September 02, 2016

This Week's MENU. CWG Auction tasting, Bottling Vineyard Hotel wines, Pruning vines at the Vineyard, Young Wine Awards, Smak, Chenin Blanc Top Ten, Vinimark Trade Tasting, Catherine Marshall Pinot, butter

Ducks on the dam at Waterford Wine Estate, Stellenbosch
Last week was extremely busy, as you will see below, and we faced a few challenges. We still don't have our car back, it's been more than a month but are eternally grateful for friends Pamela and James who have lent us a car while James is travelling. The rand is again in freefall due to bad judgement and management by our Government and we see inflation knocking at the door, with recession threatening soon after, if something is not done to stem the flow. Lynne popped into Shoprite this week to buy two things: 500 g of ordinary local butter and 3 cloves of garlic. She came out reeling, they cost R75. So if you add a good loaf of bread, garlic bread for dinner will now cost you R100. WHAT! Garlic bread a luxury? We will be planting some garlic this week. Now, are milk cows allowed in city gardens?
Last week was extremely busy, as you will see below, and we faced a few challenges. We still don't have our car back, it's been more than a month but are eternally grateful for friends Pamela and James who have lent us a car while James is travelling. The rand is again in freefall due to bad judgement and management by our Government and we see inflation knocking at the door, with recession threatening soon after, if something is not done to stem the flow. Lynne popped into Shoprite this week to buy two things : 500 g of ordinary local butter and 3 cloves of garlic. She came out reeling, they cost R75 rand. So if you add a good loaf of bread, garlic bread for dinner will now cost you R100. WHAT! Garlic bread a luxury? We will be planting some garlic this week. Now, are milk cows allowed in city gardens?
2016 Cape Winemakers Guild tutored tasting and Auction Showcase     This is, without doubt, always our best wine tasting experience of the year. We had the opportunity to taste 38 of the 54 Guild 2016 Auction wines and one brandy, at speed, hear what each winemaker has to say about the wine he or she is entering in the auction, make notes, empty a glass for the next wine and move on quickly. Some winemakers are great and talk up their wines giving the tasters time to do all the above. Others just say the name of their wines and move off at speed, which adds to the frisson of the event, but leaves us breathless
The wines are extraordinary. If you love and buy wine, register now to attend this year's auction which will be on the 1st of October at Spier. It is open to the public. Registration for the Auction and sales of VIP Lounge tickets will close on Wednesday, 16 September 2016. Contact CWG for details. http://www.capewinemakersguild.com/auction We will see you there
Bottling the Vineyard Hotel wines and tasting four vintages with lunch at Waterford     This year, we were also invited to Waterford wine estate for a tasting of the last four years of the wines that have been made. Waterford, who are one of the four wine farms which sponsor a row of vines, vinified the 2015 vintage. We were to taste the wines and have lunch together
Pruning the vines at the Vineyard Hotel      Once a year, we are invited by the management of The Vineyard Hotel to join them and help prune the vines in the small vineyard on the side of the Liesbeek river in the gardens of the hotel. They have, kindly, made us custodians of one vine. As some of the other people who have been granted a vine are unable to come, we often find that we do a good part of a row, which we enjoy immensely
It is great to be taught a little more technique on pruning methods each year by a different winemaker or viticulturist ,although some do differ widely in their methods. Last year, after we had pruned, one the viticulturists came and did a really hard prune back which may have resulted in the smaller crop in 2016. This year, we were told that the intention was to be not quite so rigorous
The South African Young Wine Awards at The CTICC     Why do we love going to this awards presentation? It's not really to taste the young wines; they are still very young and need to develop their spurs but at these occasions we get to meet the young winemakers who are involved in making these wines and they are the future of the wine industry.
A birthday breakfast at Smak     We don't often get out for breakfast, much as we would like to. Mornings at home are precious, especially after a long week of work, and some late nights. But last week a dear friend had a birthday and we decided to take her out for breakfast to celebrate. She chose to introduce us her favourite breakfast restaurant, SMAK in Bree Street. A first for us; she and her husband have grown fond of this newish venue, opened by two young entrepreneurial chefs Devin Hogan and Katia Scherf in February 2016
They bill themselves as a delicatessen, patisserie, restaurant and coffee bar. It’s light, modern and open six days a week for breakfasts and lunch and take-aways. They are closed on Sundays
Chenin Blanc Top Ten Challenge Awards at Delaire Graff     This annual awards ceremony was held at Delaire Graff this year. We always know that we are going to taste some amazing Chenins with lunch and what a good lunch it was. If you want to see who is in the top 10 this year, click on this link www.chenin.co.za. This is the third year in which the awards have been held and seven of this year's winners have previously been winners, showing how consistent some of these farms are at producing superb Chenin Blanc
Vinimark Trade Tasting     Back in the Ballroom at the CTICC for the third time in a week, this huge trade tasting is overwhelming in its depth, variety and scope of the wines available to taste. There is no way you can consciously even contemplate tasting all of the wines, we usually manage a wine or two at about a third to half of the farms. And it is a very social evening as they also invite some of their customers and we know many of them.

This gentle fruity Pinot has evolved into one of the most delicious Pinot Noirs currently available. It was the talk of two recent trade wine tastings we attended and we so agree. It is Cathy in a glass, friendly, complex, strong, independent but wonderfully feminine. Drink now or squirrel away for special occasions. About R210 at good wine outlets. or direct from Cathy http://cmwines.co.za/range/

Yes, we are serious.
2 cups (500 ml ) double cream will make one cup of butter, leaving you with 1 cup of buttermilk. You need cream with a butterfat of at least 35 %. Chill a sieve in the fridge.
Put the cream into a food processor and blend. You need to continue until you have overbeaten the cream and keep going. The cream will start to clump and give off some liquid. That's the buttermilk. When the cream clumps together in one mass, turn off the processor and using the cold sieve drain off the liquid. Keep it, you can use buttermilk in your cooking. What remains in butter.
Now wash the butter in cold water until it runs clear. Transfer it from the sieve into a bowl and using cold hands (run them under a cold tap) or a spatula, knead it to remove any water. Pour that off and add a little salt, this helps to preserve the butter. You only need about a quarter to half a teaspoon, according to your taste. Form into a roll and wrap in parchment paper. Store in the fridge. You can of course add flavours like herbs, paprika, garlic or lemon if serving with food or bread.
1st September 2016
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What's on the Menu this week? How to make your own butter:

Yes, we are serious.
2 cups (500 ml ) double cream will make one cup of butter, leaving you with 1 cup of buttermilk. You need cream with a butterfat of at least 35 %. Chill a sieve in the fridge.
Put the cream into a food processor and blend. You need to continue until you have overbeaten the cream and keep going. The cream will start to clump and give off some liquid. That's the buttermilk. When the cream clumps together in one mass, turn off the processor and using the cold sieve drain off the liquid. Keep it, you can use buttermilk in your cooking. What remains in butter.

Now wash the butter in cold water until it runs clear. Transfer it from the sieve into a bowl and using cold hands (run them under a cold tap) or a spatula, knead it to remove any water. Pour that off and add a little salt, this helps to preserve the butter. You only need about a quarter to half a teaspoon, according to your taste. Form into a roll and wrap in parchment paper. Store in the fridge. You can of course add flavours like herbs, paprika, garlic or lemon if serving with food or bread.
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

On the Wine Menu this week: Catherine Marshall’s 2013 Pinot Noir on Clay soil

This gentle fruity Pinot has evolved into one of the most delicious Pinot Noirs currently available
It was the talk of two recent trade wine tastings we attended and we so agree. It is Cathy in a glass, friendly, complex, strong, independent but wonderfully feminine. Drink now or squirrel away for special occasions. About R210 at good wine outlets. or direct from Cathy http://cmwines.co.za/range/
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Thursday, September 01, 2016

Chenin Blanc Top Ten Challenge Awards at Delaire Graff

This annual awards ceremony was held at Delaire Graff this year. We always know that we are going to taste some amazing Chenins with lunch and what a good lunch it was. If you want to see who is in the top 10 this year, click on this link www.chenin.co.za. This is the third year in which the awards have been held and seven of this year's winners have previously been winners, showing how consistent some of these farms are at producing superb Chenin Blanc
Delaire Graff has one of the most amazing outlooks in the winelands and when you arrive on a spring day like this, it is sensational. We were met with glasses of two MCC bubblies made from Chenin Blanc, Ken Forrester's SparkleHorse and Perdeberg. A welcome too from Hanneke Botha, winemaker at De Morgenzon
Good canapés were served while we waited for the awards lunch to begin. These were sweetcorn croquettes with a tomato chakalaka
Very fresh slivers of raw yellowtail with bean sprouts, pea shoots and wasabi mayo
Large pearly oysters with caviar
It is always a very social occasion
Ken Forrester, Chairman of the Chenin Blanc Association with Darius Rasool, Marketing Manager, Business Banking at sponsor Standard Bank
There were 124 entries this year, all of which were tasted blind by a five-person panel with no indication of vintage, cellar treatment or technical analysis. In his opening speech Ken Forrester said: “The overall quality is proof that Chenin is going places. Across the board the wines are world class. This is the most excited I’ve ever been for Chenin in South Africa”
Rapt attention
“We are proud to be associated with South African Chenin Blanc and the wine industry as a whole, said Craig Polkinghorne, Head of Commercial and Business Banking at Standard Bank. “By giving recognition to this grape variety we form part of a better wine industry for all. As indicated by the Top 10 winners, all of them are donating their prize money to various charities and worthy courses in and among their areas including Sunfield Home, the Du Toitskloof DGB Mobile Library, the Anna Foundation, Kusasa, The Agroecology Academy and crèches in Mbekweni and at Allée Bleue. And so we pay it forward
The judging panel this year was made up of Christian Eedes, one of South Africa’s most respected wine judges as chairperson of the judging panel, Jamie Goode, a London-based wine writer and currently wine columnist at UK national newspaper The Sunday Express, Higgo Jacobs, certified with the Court of Master Sommeliers and wine judge, Cathy van Zyl, Master of Wine, regular judge and associate editor of Platter’s South African Wine Guide, as well as wine writer and certified wine judge Samarie Smith and Tinashe Nyamudoka, sommelier at the well-known Test Kitchen, South Africa’s number one restaurant
Head Judge Christian Eedes commented that “Chenin Blanc is such a complicated category to judge, because of the diversity of styles. And this year was no exception. The competition received entries with a wide diversity of styles – from clean and fresh fruit to oxidative ones – and they all worked. There really is a style for every consumer out there. This category seems to go from strength to strength. We could see and taste that there is a general confidence among South African winemakers when they are working with this grape and a real conviction of what they want to do with this grape. It was a really great year for Chenin”
Niel Groenewald, head winemaker and brand manager of Bellingham
Johann Laubscher, General Manager of Delaire Graff, Willie du Plessis, Head: Business Banking Western Cape at Standard Bank Group, Craig Polkinghorne and Kobus Basson, owner of Kleine Zalze
Five of the top 10 winners, in no particular order: They are L to R : Allée Bleue 2015. Price: R65 93% Chenin Blanc, 7% Viognier from Franschhoek and Walker Bay vineyards; Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine 2015 Price: R160 From Agter-Paarl, Bottelary and Durbanville vineyards, with an average vine age of 45 years; Boschendal Sommelier Selection 2015 Price: R85 From old Agter Paarl, Bottelary and Somerset West vineyards. Largely unwooded, 15% fermented in oak; DeMorgenzon Reserve 2015 Price: R225 From Stellenbosch vines planted in 1972. Matured for 11 months in French oak, 25% new. The first of two for Kleine Zalze, the Family Reserve 2015 Price: R160 From three different wards of Stellenbosch, vineyards approximately 35 years in age. Matured for eight months in old 400-litre French oak barrels
The other five top 10 winners, in no particular order: They are L to R : the second winner from Kleine Zalze, the Vineyard Selection Barrel Fermented 2015 Price: R80 From Stellenbosch vineyards ranging from 25 to 40 years old. Matured for six months in old 400-litre French oak barrels; Leopard’s Leap Culinaria Collection 2015 Price: R80 From Voor-Paardeberg vineyards with an average age of 20 years. Matured in 500-litre French oak barrels, none new; Perdeberg The Dry Land Collection Barrel Fermented 2015 Price: R77 From two vineyards in the Agter Paarl area, one 26 years old and the other 32. Matured for 10 months in 500-litre French oak barrels, 20% new; Rijk’s Private Cellar Barrel Fermented 2013 Price: R140 WO Tulbagh. Grapes from 17-year-old trellised vines and seven-year-old bush vines. 20% fermented in tank, 80% fermented and matured for 11 months in 300-litre French and Hungarian oak, 40% of which was new; Spier 21 Gables 2015 Price: R150. From Tygerberg vineyards with an average age of 43 years. Matured for 14 months in a combination of 300, 400, 500 and 2500  litre French oak barrels, 60% new
Time for lunch and a chance to taste some of the winners with it. The menu
The first Intermediate course was a savoury butternut velouté topped with a great Cape Malay curry foam. The soup contained a rather large and weighty duck and pear filled ravioli. This was served with the Leopards Leap Culinaria, full of smoky melon apple and grass notes and the perfumed Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection is full, golden citrus and apple with good minerality
The second intermediate course was rather fatty salted Pork Belly, popcorn crackling, parsnip and honey puree, a thyme jus with mebos dots. The Spier 21 Gables served with it was lean and clean citrus with a touch of marmalade. A great match for this rich dish. The Kleine Zalze Family Reserve is in your face Chenin, the nose is green, the palate tropical, enjoyable
All the winners with their certificates. In front of spring vineyards bursting with buds on the slopes of the Simonsberg mountain
Main course was almost a step too far, this was a fourth course. It was Rolbaken chicken breasts with a carrot puree, coal roasted cauliflower, gem squash and a Cointreau jus. The Perdeberg Dry Land Chenin was rounder than expected, with limes and lemons and a clean minerality on the end. The other wine was De Morgenzon's Reserve, full with wood layered fruit, a sparkle of acid, lemons limes almost a mojito character, delicious
Nontokozo Madonsela, Craig Polkinghorne and Willie du Plessis
Vine pruning with the Simonsberg mountain majestic as the backdrop
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Tuesday, August 30, 2016

A birthday breakfast at Smak

We don't often get out for breakfast, much as we would like to. Mornings at home are precious, especially after a long week of work, and some late nights. But last week a dear friend had a birthday and we decided to take her out for breakfast to celebrate. She chose to introduce us her favourite breakfast restaurant, SMAK in Bree Street. A first for us; she and her husband have grown fond of this newish venue which was opened by two young entrepreneurial chefs, Devin Hogan and Katia Scherf, in February 2016
They bill themselves as a delicatessen, patisserie, restaurant and coffee bar. It’s light, modern and open six days a week for breakfasts and lunch and take-aways. They are closed on Sundays
Plenty of seating just after 9 on Saturday morning, with lots of regulars
We began with a bottle of Colmant Brut Rosé which we had taken with us. They do not have a licence yet
It's an open kitchen
An Americano coffee with a small fennel and almond biscuit fits the bill
Chef Devin on the pass preparing a dish. Both chefs are graduates of Prue Leith’s Academy
They make their own pasta; we hear it is excellent
The good ol’ scramble with cream cheese, balsamic caramelised onions, scrambled eggs, pan-fried mushrooms & parmesan served on toasted ciabatta
A fluffy omelette for John with bacon and cheese, made to order
Lynne had the interesting take on an Arnold Bennett omelette. It comes in a cocotte, has scrambled eggs on the base, smoked haddock is substituted with smoked trout and it is topped with both béchamel and hollandaise sauces, quite rich, a scattering of parmesan and flashed under the salamander grill. Served with toasted ciabatta. Not for take away, it says on the menu
The Birthday girl had the smashed avocado on toast, topped with lemon juice and poached eggs. She said the eggs were perfect. Neither of us is able to reproduce these at home, much as we try all the different methods. Probably because the supermarket eggs we get are not fresh enough, is the theory
Prices are very reasonable, we felt very comfortable and relaxed and the Deli counter is full of lots of different temptations, including good looking gateaux. They also sell some good Italian ingredients
For once, we left the Nikon at home. The photographs were taken with John's Nokia Windows phone
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Vinimark trade wine show at the CTICC

Back in the Ballroom at the CTICC for the third time in a week, this huge trade tasting is overwhelming in its depth, variety and scope of the wines available to taste. There is no way you can consciously even contemplate tasting all of the wines, we usually manage a wine or two at about a third to half of the farms. And it is a very social evening as they also invite some of their customers and we know many of them.
We started with a tasting of the two French Champagnes from Nicolas Feuillatte from Ã‰pernay, poured by Vinimark Director Ginette de Fleuriot
Tomato and mozzarella canapés
Krone were showcasing an assemblage of three very old vintages (2004, 2005 and 2006) called the Phoenix. The wines spent a minimum of 10 years on the lees. Not to our taste at all but perhaps yours?
Smoked salmon on soft pancakes
Johan Reyneke had some great wines to show, most especially the Biodynamic Cornerstone 2013 which is a blockbuster full on red blend with layers of red fruit to delight
The two Downes brothers, Stuart and James with their Shannon wines. Lynne loved the green fig leaf Sanctuary Peak 2015 Sauvignon Blanc so layered and full on a typical nose. The 2015 Semillon is spicy and grassy, with lean minerality. Semillon mutton fat and clean tangerine . Rockview Pinot Noir 2015 is pretty and perfumed, very French soft and gentle red fruit with cough sweet spice notes on the end. These wines will sell out very fast.
Small quiches
Stephanus Eksteen, Checkers wine buyer, was finding the evening interesting and asked lots of questions about the wines
Charles Withington of Darling wines, Ida van Tonder and Gemma Botha chat about the wines
Nora Sperling Thiel  of Delheim with Raymond Noppe. Their 2014 Chenin Blanc is chewy with full on fruit, a great wine for pairing with food
Happy faces on a happy  De Morgenzon farm's table. We write often about how good these wines are. The DMZ 2015 Sauvignon Blanc is, Lynne wrote: "Serrriuus". The DMZ Chenin is clean and elegant, another full on fruit layered wine and the DMZ Maestro 2014 is a great white blend with some wood and good fruit. No wonder these are appearing on more and more restaurant wine lists.
David Finlayson did it again with his Edgebaston wines. The new vintage of the Berry Box 2015 white (2015 had 63% Sauvignon Blanc, 34% Semillon, 3% Viognier )is still a bit bottle shocked but has clean fruits with oyster shale notes and roundness in the glass from the viognier. His 2014 Chardonnay sparkles with full golden fruit, has nice length and depth and keeps on talking to you. Another good food wine.
John sampled the Dalla Cia Grappa. The Single Cultivar is exceptionally smooth. The golden liquid on the right is the 10 year barrel matured grappa, which is reminiscent of an Armagnac
J C Martin was kept busy on the Creation stand, speaking here to visitors from France. Their Sauvignon Blanc is a good example of what the Hemel and Aarde Valley does with this grape Passion fruit with a spicy end and a good prickle in the centre. Lynne wears a Giorgio Armani perfume called Aqua de Gio and she found it's lovely clean floral notes on the 2016 Viognier and peaches and cream on the palate. Wow.
Three happy winemakers: Corlea Fourie of Bosman, Etienne Louw of Altydgedacht and Bertus Fourie. Corlea's Optenhorst 2015 Chenin Blanc with wood supporting the rich golden fruit is superb and the very Burgundian style Chardonnay 2015 from the Upper Hemel and Aarde is tight, clean, crisp with flinty minerality. Lynne has written Want Some in her notes. The Adama White 2015 is intriguing with layers of different aromas, flavours and textures that keep talking
As expected the Ollo white blend excited and delighted but the interesting wine was their Muskarade 2016. Rose petals on the nose and palate but dry with full flavours of hanepoot from the Muscat grapes. A wine to pair with spicy food.
We took a taxi home, we had a driver from the Congo and we were surprised how much more fluent we were in French ! That was why we took a taxi. It was all those good wines talking
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016