Thursday, November 07, 2019

MENU's UK Adventure 12. From Torquay to Plymouth, then to Mevagissey in Cornwall

On our way from Torquay, heading for our AirBnB at Mevagissey in Cornwall, we drove to Plymouth. We wanted to see the famous Hoe where Sir Walter Raleigh was said to have played bowls in 1588, while waiting for the tide to change, before going off to fight the Spanish Armada and from where the Pilgrim Fathers left for America on the 6th September 1620. We were rather shocked at the lack of signage and asked a passing gentleman if we were indeed on the Hoe? Seems we asked exactly the right person. He apologised and said they were replacing all the signage because next year will be the 400th anniversary of the Pilgrim Fathers and there will be a huge celebration. (Damn, we were a year early!) Which is why there was also a lot of building work going on in the area. Plymouth Hoe is the hill in front and the Pilgrim’s Steps are on the right in front of the tall white building

A view of the headland across the bay from the steps

The maritime museum and the tourist board are on this dockside

A really impressive sculpture on the front, known as the Leviathan, by Brian Fell
The gull on the lamp is real, although it looks as though it could be part of the exhibit

We had a round route walk on the Hoe, up Lambay hill

past the Royal Citadel fort, barracks of the 29th Commando Regiment of the Royal Artillery

My father taught me never to point a gun at anyone! Guards at the gate

The impressive gate reminded us a little of our own Cape Town Castle

The Commando Memorial

Oh, how we wished we had put more money on the parking
We were now running a little late and had to miss tasting the gin

One of the old historic Plymouth streets, full of characterful Inns
We bet that they have seen many sailors celebrating their shore leave

As we reached Mevagissey, the sun came out and we found our AirBnB very easily,
high on the hill overlooking the town

Two rooms, one a bedroom and a sitting room with French doors to the outside
The other a kitchen/diner

The spacious garden and, yes, we did get to sit out

Our apartment on the ground floor

We decided to walk down to the village the next morning;
it has the narrow streets characteristic of many Cornish seaside towns

Washing has to hang outside on the street as few houses in the village have gardens

There is lots of shopping for the tourists

A sign that someone is getting old..er

You can hardly see the Fountain Inn for the cascades of creepers and hanging baskets

The harbour

An old Cornish Crabber. Many fishing boats in Cornwall and Brittany
have "legs" to stop them falling over when the tide is out

Why not just fix them? Or update them?

Wow, a superb museum filled with lots of bygones from people who have lived in the area
Admission is free but, of course, we gave a donation
These places are like gold and must be supported

Very young-looking Ma and Pa in front of the kitchen range. Lynne remembers baby chairs like those!

The Museum was the premises of a ship repairer in earlier times. This is the foreman’s office
with the old furniture, tools and pictures that he would have had on the walls and treasured

Out of the water for repairs. There is still a ship repair business at the waterside

We almost got a tan in the lovely sunshine on the jetty

Some pleasure boats, as well as working boats

A view from the harbour of the nearby cliffs and farmland

Should we have fish and chips? Tempted by the scallops...

Good name for No. 57!

We settled for some pasties from Martins the Bakers. Not great; heavy pastry and rather tasteless
Sadly, nothing like those Lynne remembers from the Rock Bakery in Padstow
and John remembers from previous visits to Penzance and Mousehole
Should have had the scallops or a crab sandwich. But they were twice the price of those in Scotland

We had been invited for dinner with friends who live near Lostwithiel
Lynne and friends Navin and Nick both owned flats in the same house in Broadhurst Gardens
in West Hampstead in London for over 20 years. Navin and Nick still have their flat but live down in Cornwall
They have the most beautiful manor house

Nick came and fetched us; it is quite a way to their house, deep in the countryside,
down small winding lanes with high hedgerows. We might never have found it, even with our SatNav

A long table had been set for dinner with several friends

Dinner was a delicious Indian curry with basmati rice

Samoosas and flat bread and a dip

The slow cooked chicken curry

Dhal

And two puddings, a crème brulée topped with berries
and a rich white chocolate cheesecake brought by one of the guests 

We sat in the sitting room after dinner and relaxed with more wine,
then took a taxi back to Mevagissey at midnight after a lovely evening

Dim sum for supper at South China Dim Sum Bar

After a recent wine event in Town, we decided that we wanted some Asian food and went to Wembley Square, to a restaurant Lynne had read about and whose menu she had seen on line. It was just 8.30 when we arrived, to find it closing for the night. Obviously not popular, even though it was one of Restaurant Week's selections. SO, where to go? Well, it was obvious to us, one of our old favourites and not very far way is the South China Dim Sum Bar at the top of Long Street
We were shown to a seat at one of the small tables and studied the menu, which is quite small but adequate. There were choices of the dim sum we like. Prices are reasonable. We do wish, however, that Cape Town would expand its choices. (At the Dim Sum restaurant we went to in London, the menu is several pages long. They are on five floors and have been there since the 1970s, but it is probably an unfair comparison)
We had been sent this bottle of De Krans Chenin Blanc to sample and it went quite well with Dim Sum. Undoubtedly, it was not helped by the tumbler provided. In future, we’ll bring our own wine glasses as we do to some other restaurants. We finished the bottle at home in proper glasses and it was much improved, Corkage is R35 and you can open two bottles. The restaurant does have a good, if small, list of wines and some craft beers. Oh, and cocktails too
The menu on the night. We wanted to order the Siu Mai, but they have mushrooms in them. Damn. And we made the classic mistake. We ordered one of each of our choices and they come in threes. Not great for sharing, can causes family resentment or we have to cut one of each dumpling in two. Luckily, we were able to double up on the order. Lots of vegetarian options on the menu too
The cocktail menu. Sounds good, but we prefer wine or straight spirits
Shar siu bao, a light and airy bun stuffed with barbecue pork, is an essential
The special of the evening was a rather salty Prawn Laksa; someone had a bit of a heavy hand with the Trassi shrimp paste
Great prawns though, one each
Edmund Hung, the owner and chef, has summed up his philosophy as
“making great simple food, meeting people and promoting earth friendliness”
We often meet him at wine trade events
We ordered both the lamb and beef pot sticker dumplings, so crisp on the outside and extremely flavourful
This is the beef dumpling, served with black rice vinegar
and the lamb, served on spiced yogurt
Lynne’s absolute favourite dim sum is the Har Gou dumpling, filled with prawns and crisp water chestnuts. Heaven
The dips we were served were also very special; one tasted of caramelised onion and miso and was spicy hot
All the crockery and cutlery is recyclable. Applause from us
Paying the bill and saying thank you to the chef for a very delicious and satisfying meal
The bill
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus