Sunday, June 04, 2023

In MENU this issue - Martin Moore RIP; Trophy Wine Show Judges' Feedback; Wine Concepts Grape Escape; A Darling Day; Coronation - with chicken; Council to the rescue

Winter is here – the Cape has had several weeks of storms with gale force winds and torrential rain. We have measured more rainfall so far this year than we had had by the end of July last year. Our house has cracked tiles and a leaking roof. We hope the people our insurers sent to check it out hurry up and fix it. But we are fortunate. There are many people in much worse circumstances.

In this issue, we say goodbye to a very special man, tell a story about remedial action taken by our City Council, a couple of our own fun experiences and some very important wine events. Please enjoy them

Martin Moore RIP

                  Neil Ellis and Martin sharing a joke at Cape Wine 2022

A great oak (he might say Oke!) has fallen, sadly, at the tender age of 60

Martin Moore was a big man, not just physically, but in almost every way. His zest for life, his huge sense of humour, love of life with wine, food (especially braai), people and sport and his encyclopaedic knowledge of the process and business of making wine

We met him first when he was making the wine at Groot Constantia and reviving the wine reputation of this historic estate. We were near the end of our studies for the Cape Wine Academy diploma and his help was invaluable in getting us over the final hurdle. 
Read on…

The 2023 Trophy Wine Show Judges' Feedback Session

This year's Feedback Session of the Trophy Wine Show, sponsored by Investec, was held at the Lord Charles Hotel in Somerset West. The results will be announced on Monday, 8th of June and there will be tastings open to the public in Johannesburg on Wednesday, 14th June at the Sandton Centre and in Cape Town on Wednesday, 21st June at the CTICC. 
Read on...

Wine Concepts Grape Escape Wine Festival

Great to see Mike Duggan and his team doing an unusual tasting and in a new venue, the Steenberg Golf Club. We quote from the invitation: “Wine Concepts is thrilled to invite wine lovers to the third annual Grape Escape Wine Festival. Following the success of previous festivals, this year's event promises to be an exclusive afternoon of exceptional wine tasting. The festival will feature an exciting and diverse selection of wines from uncommon varieties and blends, including Cinsault, Gamay Noir, Verdelho, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Riesling, Clairette Blanche, Carmenère, Carignan, Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and Chenin driven blends, as well as captivating Rhone varieties such as Viognier, Marsanne, Syrah, and Grenache”. 
Click on this link to read on...

A Darling Day

happened because our electricity was being turned off in the street from 9am to 2pm to replace an electric pole and some wiring and do some tree trimming after a storm. As it was a Wednesday, we decided to decamp and visit Darling Cellars. Luckily, it was an absolutely clear and sparking day, if a bit chilly. 
Read on...

Watching the Coronation - with chicken


God Save the King - The British do Pomp and Circumstance so well. We enjoyed the music in the Abbey very much, especially the aria sung by our South African Diva Pretty Yende. 
See more…

Cape Town City Council to the rescue


Cape Town was in the middle of a storm. We had been experiencing gale force winds since the previous morning

On Friday 12th May, ±5 pm, we called the City Council to report water gushing out from under the tarmac across the road from our house and were told it would be attended to as soon as possible, but that there were damage reports coming in from all over the city

At 7 pm the repair team arrived, got to work with spectacular effects and by 7.30 the broken pipe had been dug up and fixed
Read on…



All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

If you do not wish to receive e-mails from us, please email menucape@gmail.com with the word 'UNSUBSCRIBE' in your email

Wine Concepts Grape Escape Wine Festival

Great to see Mike Duggan and his team doing an unusual tasting and in a new venue, the Steenberg Golf Club. We quote from the invitation: “Wine Concepts is thrilled to invite wine lovers to the third annual Grape Escape Wine Festival. Following the success of previous festivals, this year's event promises to be an exclusive afternoon of exceptional wine tasting. The festival will feature an exciting and diverse selection of wines from uncommon varieties and blends, including Cinsault, Gamay Noir, Verdelho, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Riesling, Clairette Blanche, Carmenère, Carignan, Zinfandel, Chenin Blanc, and Chenin driven blends, as well as captivating Rhone varieties such as Viognier, Marsanne, Syrah, and Grenache”

We love seeing where growers are going with these niche varieties
so expected some new finds and indeed there were some. It was well attended


Mike Duggan chatting to Tarryn Vincent-Thomas of Reciprocal Trading

We began tasting white wines but, half way through, switched to reds and so may have missed several good wines,
but with so much to taste, it’s always a challenge and there were so many new farms and brands
An excellent Vermentino from Morgenster called Julio, in tribute to deceased owner Julio Bertrand,
made by winemaker Yolande van Staden
Elegance on the forward and perfumed nose, crisp long and lingering with layers of fruit and flavour, demands food

Great Heart 2021 Cabernet Franc. Great Heart is the staff empowerment project of Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines,
known for their multi-award winning Leeu Passant and Mullineux wineries
These grapes come from the Leeu estate in Franschhoek
It has smoke, red berries and plums on the nose, soft then grippy green tannins to take with it as it ages
Crunchy red berry grapes with a long finish

Renee, Jonathan, Murray and Michael Bampfield-Duggan with Shandri Erasmus

Lynne was impressed with 2022 Grenache "Stok by Paaltjie" (Sur Échalas  or goblet-trained vine) from Fairview
Made by experienced winemaker Anthony de Jager, who made so many of the Cape’s first niche grape wines,
grown in the Swartland by Charles Back
Cherry and fynbos on the nose, Cranberry and red berry on the palate
with tight grippy tannins and chalk on the teeth. Made to last

Lynne had a long chat at the Nativo table about Orange wine with the owner of Hughes Family Wines Billy Hughes
She tasted the 2020 Nativo which is a blend of Viognier, Chenin, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc
“Very perfumed, one I would wear”, said Lynne
On the palate it certainly showcases all the varieties in the wine
The Bees 2021, made from Viognier, has a floral nose
and is rich and round on the palate
with honey sweetness and is very interesting.  Need to try this with food
Nativo Amarillo 2020 Orange Wine is a blend of 54% Chenin Blanc, 24% Viognier, 22% Roussanne
Lynne found similarities to a weaker Oloroso sherry but without the punch
It does have bite from the chalky tannins and might go with fish or seafood,
but, to be honest, we are more fans of sherry than of this style of wine but it has its admirers
How can we get the young to drink good dry and Oloroso sherry?
Could it be the next thing to catch on, if we serve it dry and at a chilled temperature?

Jacques van der Heyde (partner in Wine Concepts International Pty Ltd) with Mike and Renee

Nicole Kilian with Keermont. We tasted (and fondly remembered) their excellent white blend called Terrasse:
Chenin blanc 56%; Chardonnay 17%; Sauvignon blanc 18%; Roussanne 4%; Marsanne 4%; Viognier 1%
It’s powerful on the nose with hints of citrus, nut and oak and, on the complex palate,
layers of ripe apricot, peach and quince
The name comes from the many terraces of different grapes grown high up on the mountain

Jason Steel is an exciting young man who loves and understands wine
Formerly working as front of house for top Cape Town restaurants, he is establishing his own range of wines
A 2013 MasterChef South Africa finalist, he is also a foodie
The 2021 Colombard was made with grapes from Arendsig and Jason is now working with our old friend
owner/cellarmaster Lourens van der Westhuizen at Arendsig in Bonnievale to produce Jason’s new wines
This 2021 Cabernet was made at Silverthorn with the assistance of owner/winemaker John Loubser
and the grapes were sourced from their small Cabernet vineyard
It has a classic Cabernet nose, very attractive
Nine months on gentle wood, with nice grippy tannins, good acidity and long cassis flavours, it was very good

Thelema Sutherland Viognier Roussanne is a great blend and works so well together,
the slight sweetness of the viognier balanced by the good acidity of the Roussanne
You feel you are down south in France

The Steenberg 2021 Semillon has age and maturity on the nose
and is crisp and complex on the palate, with long flavours and lots of wood. Needs time

Kerry Sutherland represents Tierhoek from up in the Piekenierskloof area
The 2021 Old Vine Chenin Blanc from 30 year old trellised vines is complex and layered on the nose
We were taken to see the vineyard many years ago by Tony and Shelley Sandell just after they bought the farm
It had a row of pine trees growing through the middle of the neglected vineyard. So good to see what they made of it
Concentrated flavours of pear and apple on the palate with light wood supporting. Delicious

Swanepoel is a new name for us. They are from the in Tulbagh valley
They have a very enjoyable crisp and elegant Cap Classique that people were talking about
It is made, unusually, from Grenache Blanc
Lynne found raspberries on the bready nose but crisp, clean Blanc de Blanc flavours on the palate
Dirk Swanepoel is the winemaker. In the barrel for 6 months and on the lees for 15 months

Usana 2021 The Runaway is made from Pinot Gris; shy on the nose, then it opens up

Dave Louw, who used to sell wines to us in our shop, is marketing these wines

Nicoleen Traut (Ridgeback Wines) and Bev Murray (Strandveld Wines)

We know, love and buy the Strandveld wines which come from the Elim area, about as southern as you can get
The Navigator is an excellent Rhône blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier
Talented winemaker Conrad Vlok was awarded Winemaker of the year recently
and when he makes a Viognier it is one of the best., elegant, layered and made with great subtlety
His Grenache 2021 is a big wine, aromatic with fynbos and great dark fruit and well wooded with fine tannins
They all are a sommeliers dream, going perfectly with good food

The Ridgeback Viognier reminded us that it is a while since we last visited the farm in upper Paarl
Perfume on the nose of flowers and golden fruit, which follows through on the palate
with peach and pineapple crispness with some light supporting oak on the finish

Taryn Vincent-Thomas of Reciprocal Trading with a newly released Riedel glass
She had some French wines to taste. Lynne recognized the La Vielle Ferme brand from her travels in France
This was a non-vintage Chardonnay from the Rhône. It was very French, very familiar and very crisp
The Domaine du Tariquet is a blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng from Gascony
It has a good nose; it sings of the south, a hint of mimosa!
Figs, minerality, crispness and a little hanepoot grape, with a little salt on the end
You could almost hear the cicadas, but we were tasting lots of wine.... Around R250 a bottle if you want to try it

From Waterkloof in Somerset West, a Rosé Mourvèdre called Cape Coral,
which was on the skins for 12 months, we were told
13.5% gives the wine some warmth and it has lots of the red wine characteristics
There was also a 2022 Cinsault, a 2020 Mourvèdre,
and one Lynne regrets not having tasted, the 2018 Petit Verdot - she is rather fond of the grape

We made two stops at the Welgegund table and were richly rewarded and impressed each time. The farm is in Wellington
Winemaker Friedrich Kühne was extremely helpful
The 2019 Chenin from old vines planted in a 1974 has richness on the nose which denotes the old barrel fermentation
Cooked and crisp apple on both nose and palate make for a good experience
The 2019 Grenache Noir is from high vineyards and grows on granite rocks
Whole bunch fermentation with 10% stalks, 50% in 2nd fill wood. The rest is unwooded
Really good red and black fruit aromas and flavours on the nose and palate. soft tannins with a little grip
The terroir shows. A very enjoyable wine

Emy Mathews and Friedrich Kühne of Welgegund
Emy is about to start a new job at the Vineyard Collection in Stellenbosch
We have known Emy for many years; she is very knowledgeable about wine


The 2019 Cinsault is beautifully perfumed on the nose with flowers and fruit
New French Oak and a ceramic amphora was used on the wine, showing incense on the nose too
Lovely raspberry and cherry fruit, nice chalky tannins, it’s a lovely wine and probably the best we tasted on the show
We think a visit to them is due soon

Sue Anderson and Dane Raath, both successful distributors representing good farms
We wrote about Dane's trade show at The Winchester recently

Bruwer Wines B Vintners Harlem to Hope, grown in the Polkadraai hills in Stellenbosch
A blend of Chenin Blanc, Semillon; Muscat Blanc and Muscat d’ Alexandrie
The varieties were brought to the Cape, by the early Dutch settlers

Blake's Family Wines from Yzerfontein; most of the grapes are from the nearby Darling area
The Chenin blanc has delightful fruit, fresh green apple with hints of apricot and spice

Another new name for us, Klipkers from De Kleine Wijn Koöp
The Debutant is a Semillon from Franschhoek, made by Wynand Grobler,
who has more experience with this variety than most winemakers, 
and made excellent Semillon for Rickety Bridge and Landau de Val
It has a wonderful mouthfeel with subtle citrus and honeyed pineapple and a classic lime finish

Leon Coetzee with his The Fledge range of wines

He and his wife, Margaux Nel of Boplaas, make this range of wines from bought in grapes all over the winelands
These wines get attention from people

The Tinta Barocca is from vines planted in 1971 on the Swartberg mountains
Sweet bruléed fruit, tight tannins. loong and complex with dark black fruit and good wood
The 2018 Touriga Franca used grapes from the last vintage at Bredell and are no more. 
Pretty, perfumed fruit with some roses
Lighter fruit on the palate than expected, with nice salty drop licorice in the middle, with long flavours and calling for food

Leon Coetzee pouring his Constantia Riesling

Paul Hoogwerf from Maanschijn and Carsten Migliarina

We have long been fans of Migliarina wines
and it was special to savour his excellent 2022 Chenin Blanc and especially his 2018 Grenache
Vanilla tempts on the nose, sweet berry fruit entrances on the palate with some tight tannins and a crisp end
 Shouts for food



The 2021 Grenache Blanc from Olifantsberg is shy on the nose and has sweet fruit and long warm flavours
The 2020 had much more wood and is light, then sweet

All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

If you do not wish to receive e-mails from us, please email menucape@gmail.com with the word 'UNSUBSCRIBE' in your email

Tuesday, May 30, 2023

The 2023 Trophy Wine Show Judges' Feedback Session


This year's Feedback Session of the Trophy Wine Show, sponsored by Investec,
was held at the Lord Charles Hotel in Somerset West. The results will be announced on Monday, 8th of June
and there will be tastings open to the public
in Johannesburg on Wednesday, 14th June at the Sandton Centre
and in Cape Town on Wednesday, 21st June at the CTICC

We mingled with winemakers attending the Feedback and the judges,
who had just finished tasting and voting on the Trophies for this year

We were so pleased to see and speak to British judge Jancis Robinson MW
Her wine books and the Oxford Companion to Wine, which she edited,
helped us so much when we were studying for our Cape Wine Academy Wine Diplomas

Alex Mason-Gordon of Outsorceress Marketing with Judy Brower of Wine.co.za

Clive Torr talking to judge Benjamin Roffet

Having completed a stint as head sommelier at the Trianon Palace, Versailles, Benjamin has now set himself new challenges. He is heading up the team at the Hexagon, the new restaurant of the multi-starred chef Mathieu Pacaud. In this new setting, he is seeking a balance between his thirst for discovery and his desire to continue coming across an unknown wine first-hand. At bottom, the ultimate goal of this profession is to always go beyond what is already known

Andre Morgenthal of the Old Vines Project
talking to Bennie Howard CWM, Chair of the Institute of Cape Winemasters and Marketing manager at Meerendal

Each judge sits on two or more different panels
and they then give feedback about the quality of the nearly 700 wines tasted this year
It is in general; they do not know the brands of the wines, as they taste blind
We will all know what wines have been given Trophies and awards on Thursday, 8th June

Michael Fridjhon opened proceedings. This is the 22nd year of the Trophy Competition, now sponsored by Investec
He told us that tasting wine takes up more parts of your brain than most things -
observing the wine colour and viscosity, the aroma, the taste, the age, the sounds, if its bubbly - so it is tiring
But we love doing it

Renowned British wine writer and judge Jancis Robinson OBE, MW told us that she really enjoyed this tasting

She last tasted in this competition in 2003 and 2007 and found that things have hugely improved; the wines are more sophisticated, and we are reflecting trends seen elsewhere. She was seeing SA wines as more refreshing, refined and sophisticated. They tasted 71 wines and it was quite an assault on the senses. The golds picked had very different attributes and only one was in the new, refreshing style. She visited Cape Agulhas before the competition and tasted the newer style and was impressed. Chardonnay was a huge pleasure to judge. So beautiful, most are substantial. She hardly saw any signs of unresolved oak. Possibly, SA Chardonnay lacks the savour and subtlety of the best Burgundies, but they also lack the faults found in the rest of the world. Pinots are a work in progress; they will get there in the end, as long as we don’t heat up. There were many different styles in the Cabernets, which the world is producing better every year despite global warming. She is very happy to champion SA wines which she has done for many years

Anne Krebiehl MW

German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer and lecturer. She is the contributing editor for Austria, Alsace, Burgundy and England for US Wine Enthusiast and also writes for trade and consumer wine publications such as The World of Fine Wine, Decanter, The Buyer, Falstaff and Vinum. She said that she echoed what had been said. She tasted 32 Sauvignons Blanc and found translucent, fresh and bright wines. A proper cross section of what there is and at price points that sell well. Without exception, they were made correctly and this means that they are popular around the world. No faulty wines, lots of freshness. It is the most successful variety in the world with levels of purchase up but, here in SA, there is less and less vineyard acreage. She thinks that we should make not obvious, but subtle styles, forget fine wine quality. There was one unoaked gold. Add oak to Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blends with oak; now we are talking. Alluring and exciting over the years, there are world class wines in this class. Niche whites were exciting, such as  Vermentino and Picpoul. She is pleased to see these grapes given a chance in the changing climate. They are used to sun and dryness. With Mediterranean varies like  Verdelho she is finding the future here exciting; they bring diversity and a have a lot to contribute. The Merlot category was challenging, lots of alcohol. And, boy, was the Pinotage hard work. She found that the beautiful and subtle, translucent and elegant style is the way to go. She was very pleased with the Cap Classique class. Lots to compute and celebrate and deliberate. She is so pleased with the style that it is intense, exciting and serious

J D Pretorius, winemaker at Warwick Estate, told us that the Chardonnay base is huge

Cabernet was well managed, especially in oaking, with very little oxidation. There were 30 entries. The Pinot Noir class entries were not in the same class as other wines
Michael Fridjhon commented that the show is discovering talent. Competition is tough with people who hold on to old glory while newer producers are taking their place. We must pay attention to the benchmarks of the industry and where the industry is going to, rather than where it has been

Benjamin Roffet has been the Head Sommelier at the Eiffel Tower restaurant Jules Verne since 2019

He says the future for our industry looks bright. The changes in the wine industry here are fast while in France they are slooow. We have wines with more personality. In the Chenin Class he found wines with salinity, minerality, purity of fruit and good expression. Bordeaux blends were challenging, with over-extraction, too much wood, but then some wines with personality were showing what it could become. Rose was a well-made style, but we do need more food-friendly roses which are spicier, fuller. Niche reds are a category to look at. Grenache was stunning. It is amazing to see how the SA wine industry is doing

Heidi Duminy CWM, Principal of the Cape Wine Academy, said that Cap Classique is responding,
 possibly there is growth in the sector;

there is hard evidence that Blanc de blanc Chardonnay styles are rising to the top. It became successful when it stopped trying to be Champagne. There is so much more to consider; wines are more confident and astute. There were 39 Cap Classiques entered and the various styles were judged together. Some were exquisite. Pinotage has so much diversity. Comparing the old school style and the new, which is instantly likeable with attractive sweet fruit. The old school style has bold tannins masking the character, with dominating oak

Cathy van Zyl MW said this is her fourth competition in 6 weeks!
She heads the panel of judges and said they were rigorous and did a good job

This is the best competition to judge because it is so rigorous. There are two fridges of Sauvignon Blanc in her home, catering to her and her husband Philip’s different tastes. He is editor of the Platter guide. The sauvignons were very impressive; highly commercial with a range of styles, so anyone can find something enjoyable. There was great complexity in the wooded Sauvignons; they were really superb. Roses should please stay away from the boiled sweets! Fresh fruit with berries please.  Chardonnay: there is a dramatic improvement in this class. Red wines offer too much fruit sweetness, need more of the savoury and umami now seen in some

Mandla Patson Mathonsi. Regional Sales Manager at Spier Wine Farm, has been a senior judge since 2019

The show is growing every year. Chenin is a strong class, as is the Dessert wine class. They managed to find a museum class wine which made them give it attention. It was clean and fresh; we should drink older wines. The Natural sweet and fortified wines are a strong class in SA, but he questions what we are doing the class is declining - so few were entered. There were two old wines that impressed, a Natural Sweet and a Noble Late Harvest. How do we grow that market? Restaurant business sommeliers need to introduce these styles to customers. But people are watching their sugar consumption... White blends and niche whites also need promoting. He was on the Merlot panel. The Cabernet franc class was very impressive. They gave everyone a chance and called for another bottle if one was not showing well

On day 3, they tasted 73 Cabernet Sauvignons. There was one gold in the Museum class, a 2018 which was clean and fresh

Winemaker Trizanne Barnard, who markets her own wine under her eponymous label
said that Chenin blanc was a pleasure to judge

It is a star variety and growers know what they are doing; winemakers are led by the grape and are respectful with oak. Bordeaux Blends need work to be done on blending; some wines are more restrained and not too showy, drinkable but not show-worthy. Niche reds; she wants to see more plantings. South Africa can be so strong in these categories. A Touriga/Sangiovese blend tasted was stunning

Gynore Hendricks • Associate Winemaker at Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines

This is her second year as a judge. She saw a vast improvement in quality. Shiraz was impressive, not many over ripe, over extracted wines, now many fine in style. He Bordeaux Blends class is now completely different from two years ago. You can recognise the winemakers and cultivars. Niche reds, particularly Cinsault and Malbec, impressed with the most exciting well made, well integrated and well managed wines

James Pietersen, Chief Executive Officer at Wine Cellar - Fine Wine Merchants & Cellarers
said that the overseas judges bring so much to the tasting and make us learn new things

The Shiraz panel is important to South Africa, it is the leading category in depth of quality; there are some very good wines entered. He does not think that producing light wines is a good idea. Do commit to the style or it becomes a mere vin rouge. Niche blend whites are very good, especially the Grenache Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blends - we need to explain how to use these wines with food. Merlot was tough and hard work. Some winemakers try to make bubbly, but they need to understand where and how to do it. Pinotage was hard work; second tier wines came up with juicy fruit and sweetness. Tannins need balancing with sweetness, should be allowed to express themselves. It was a great, rigorous competition

Janice Fridjhon of Outsorceress Marketing is the head of the seamlessly efficient organising team

Alex Mason-Gordon is up there with Janice. She was supervising the crew behind the scenes
They pour all the wines blind

Angela Lloyd asking a question after the feedback session

"Low alcohol wines of 11/12% show less extraction and sugars are picking up. Were they balanced and reflecting the variety? Light wines need gravitas." James Pietersen said they are not filled with oak which would bring more character

When the feedback session was over, we were invited to have a buffet lunch and taste some wines in the foyer

A mixed selection to go with the food


Two of our favourites

One new to us and the classic 2021 Glenwood Grand Duc
 Chardonnay

Mushroom risotto

Rice suppli balls

Very good fresh fish in batter


Served with chips

A vegetarian option



Rice paper rolls

The competition results will be released at a lunch at Delaire Graff on Thursday 8th February

and there will be public tastings in Johannesburg and Cape Town on Details here: https://www.trophywineshow.co.za/diary-of-events/

All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

If you do not wish to receive e-mails from us, please email menucape@gmail.com with the word 'UNSUBSCRIBE' in your email