Monday, April 03, 2017

TvM Wines trade tasting at Auslese

Tracy van Maaren continues to expand her list with excellent wines, which makes this trade tasting exciting each year. Chef Proprietor of Aubergine and Auslese, Harald Bresselschmidt, arranges food pairings for some of these wines and they are interesting matches which make one think about how you would serve these wines. This was held on Wednesday last week
Auslese is in Hope Street in the Gardens area of Cape Town. It's a function venue and can be hired for all sorts of events
We began with Silverthorn's three MCCs, The Genie, The Green Man and Jewel Box, made by John Loubser. John is the MD of Steenberg in Constantia. Silverthorn is his own brand and making. The 2013 Jewel Box Brut shows the lovely raspberry fruit flavours of the Pinot Noir component first then the leanness of the rich Chardonnay, a gem of a sparkle
It was paired with these opulent oysters in a spring onion vinaigrette with pumpernickel crumb
Oh so tender chicken breast poached in rosé, with lemon verbena and raspberries was the pairing to go with the non -vintage MCC Rosé Genie. This has a wonderful mouth feel and is clean and crisp and full of raspberries.
All three Silverthorn wines have elegance and quality.
Someone we haven't seen for a long time, innovate winemaker Anthony de Jager, winemaker of Fairview since 1996. Many people will not know that it was Anthony made the first Viognier in South Africa which is still a benchmark for others, the first single Mourvedre, Grenache and Malbec under 1990's. Here he is in conversation with journalist Mel Minnaar
Anel Grobler who writes the blog Spit or Swallow with her friend Frans
The three Fairview wines for tasting., including their new MCC with its crisp prickle on the palate; the Nurok a blend of skin fermented Chenin; naturally fermented Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc with dusty roses on the nose, a lovely mouth feel, crisp but full of honey and peaches; and the Stok by Paaltjie Grenache
We liked the Fairview 2013 Extrano (the label reminds us of Cinzano!) with its silky fruity smooth and spicy mouthful and then a dose of heat, licorice and dark cherries. It shouts "Age me please!" Taming Tempranillo with some Grenache and Carignan was a good idea
It was paired with braised duck leg in a coffee extraction with blueberries. I must have got a giant duck as my pairing tasted just like beef. (It 's beef, it's beef - sorry, UK people will know this advertising slogan)
Delicious crocodile tail on haricot vert paired with the Nurok (Label designed for dyslexics like Lynne)
The sublime Eagles Nest Viognier, restrained warm linen and honey on the nose has had no malolactic fermentation. The initial full sweet honey peaches changes to lemon lime citrus , developing into a great food wine. The pairing was a savoury cheese tartlet with crisp wafer thin pastry topped with a peach gel and some peach. Yes!
Tender juicy cubes of ostrich with the Eagles Nest Shiraz. Incense wood and violets on the nose then full red and black fruit melange with warmth and subtle spicing. Another that time will reward. We also liked the Sauvignon Blanc, a typical green Constantia number with asparagus and green pepper on the nose, with passion fruit flavours: clean, crisp, refreshing
The B Vintners poured their very floral but dry Muscat de Alexandrie, and their Pinot Noir
The B Vintners Strandwolf Chardonnay 2016 a classic rendition was beautifully paired with a moon fish Tartare. a new fish for us, it's a tropical fish
The Richard Kershaw stand was extremely popular with the sommeliers, restaurateurs and hoteliers. Richard is producing extremely good wine
A great pairing with his 2014 Shiraz was this cold glazed lamb rib eye. The wine is spicy, sophisticated, fun , with wood, licorice, and warmth. The 2012 was more gentle but enticing with an almost cola note
The pairing for the excellent long and crisp Clonal Selection Chardonnay 2015 was tender octopus with a seafood flavoured paella
Wow did Cathy Marshall impress with her two Pinot Noirs. The 2016 Sandstone is perfumed, juicy sweet fruit, layered perfection. We think chef Harald must have agreed as he produced the best pairing of the evening. So tender, cured duck breast with a plum compote
She had a busy time of it. And surprised us all by showing her new 2016 Riesling. Lean, clean and no terpene, quite marvellous. It refreshed the palate, showed the underlying fruit with honey and nuts but remained crisp and dry. This is how SA should be making Riesling
The Clay soil 2015 Pinot Noir has elegance and beautiful fruit which is gives up slowly. Full of raspberries and other berries, no faults and very French in style. Paired with rolls of springbok Carpaccio stuffed with herbs and dressed with a pomegranate gel, another great pairing. Best wine of the evening for Lynne
A happy smiling Catherine Marshall
Bruwer Raats impressed again with two excellent wines. The Eden High Density 2014 Chenin Blanc is his usual classic full on Chenin. Paired with Rabbit and pineapple to enhance those Chenin flavours. His other wine was the Raats Family Cabernet Franc 2014 Savoury, full of black fruit, herbal, full and elegant with a punch, a benchmark Cabernet Franc. We did not taste the pairing
Chef Edgar Osojnik of Buitenverwachting discussing the wine with Eamon MacLoughlin
 Chef Edgar with his stepson, Diego Noble
A new gin Bloedlemoen (Blood orange). It contains different citrus and lots of other aromatics and botanicals. Good but we felt it could have done with a bit more juniper, but then we are rather traditional when it comes to gin
Cathy Marshall with Manuel Cabello, the Sommelier at Ellerman House
Mariette Kershaw with Kara Fox of Wine Pair
Cathy with Caroline Bagley of Savoy Cabbage
Hugh Whiley and Felicity O'Connor
Elaine and Jaap-Henk Koelewijn of Tokara with Sean Skibbe of South Hill
Braised pork loin and Bresaola was paired with the Bryan MacRobert dry and crisp Steen, the old South African name for Chenin Blanc
His Pinotage was paired with a Pinotage and fennel saucisson on a blue cheese mouse on pumpernickel bread. Chanel perfume and cooked plums, still with serious tannin, typical of a young Pinotage
A great showcase of wines, thank you Tracy
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
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