Wednesday, November 03, 2021

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 2. Calitzdorp - Axe Hill

Day 2 of the trip. The bird life here has been very varied
 There is a pepper tree outside our cottage and two beautiful male Olive Thrushes visited us this morning,

a pair of small doves was contemplating a nest, John photographed a barn swallow
and we have seen lots of swifts in the late afternoon, scooping insects in the warm thermals

Today was all about wine and port in Calitzdorp. Knowing this, we had a very good breakfast
Mike Neebe at Axe Hill, whom we have known since we sold his first port in our shop Main Ingredient, had invited us to visit and taste with him

We had arranged to be there at 11. Getting there was going to be a doddle as his winery is down the road we were staying in, just the other side of the R62. It had been a long time since we were last there and we went down the road, convinced that we knew where he was. We drove for nearly 2 kilometres and then turned back, convinced that we had missed the farm. We hadn't, so we had to go back again, just about 100 metres further this time and there he was welcoming us

We had a marvellous tasting of his wines and ports, from the bottles, young and very vintage and excitingly from barrels
He is very good at what he does. If you are heading this way, this is another excellent cellar to visit in Calitzdorp

Some of the Axe Hill wines and ports available for tasting

Two wines from his Gatos brand (gatos in Greek means cats; there are a few in the area). The white is a blend of 52% Chardonnay, 13% Viognier and 18% Palomino, mostly fermented and aged in Chenin barrels. Peaches and light wood on the nose from the old barrel, lively and refreshing on the palate; a wine to serve with fish, seafood and a rich bisque

The light red 2021 Gatos is a Blanc de noir saignée Cinsault. Quote: “ ‘sohn-yay’ means ‘to bleed,’ and it also describes a method of rosé winemaking that involves ‘bleeding’ off a portion of red wine juice after it's been in contact with the skins and seeds. So Saignée is a unique style of rosé wine because it is so often bolder and darker in colour than any other rosé wine’." Perfumed with vanilla and blossoms, good red berries and strawberries, very much in the French rosé style. On the palate the savouriness of Cinsault, maraschino cherry, crisp and dry followed by more juicy berries

The 2016 Machado is made from port grape varietals and they speak on the nose with dark heady fruit. Touriga Nacional, Souzão, Tinta Barocca and Tinta Roriz. Soft on the palate, very juicy morello cherry, rhubarb and mulberry, a lovely food wine with some chalk on the end

Mike also let us taste some 2021 Tempranillo from the barrel. The vineyard was planted in 2011. Vanillins from the 500 litre barrel, quite delicate on the nose, still showing a bit of fermentation pétillance, lovely fresh red and black berry fruit, raspberry mulberry; it’s busy gathering its skirts together for its debut, which we hear will not be for a while yet

The Axe Hill Distinta, 40% Tinta Barocca, 40% Touriga 20%, Souzão tells you where it is from; vanilla oak, warm berries and a hint of complexity on the nose. Chalky tannins, dark berries, rhubarb and dark wood in layers with supple tannins. John bought a case, so we have some to delight us for the present and the future

Another from the barrel, the non-vintage white port 2003 to 2011, solera style. The age has made it tawny coloured, it’s nutty with raisins, naartjie and a hint of smoke on the nose. Lovely glycerols, dried Christmas fruit, fresh apricots, it’s chewy and delicious. The roasted cashew nuts are there at the end. It is exciting and we can’t wait for Mike to bottle it as the current one is sold out

Wine from the barrel in the glass and one of the vinoteque bottles

The red port from the barrel; he has left the 2010 in barrel to mature. Lots of deep sweetness coats the tongue, lovely chalky tannins, plums, cherries, layers of dark fruit and brandy flavours; very, very good. The legs on the glass were incredible. It’s a classic blend of old school Axe Hill Port: 20% Tinta Barocca, 60% Touriga National and 20% Souzão. We then tasted from the current bottled Red Port and it is much more restrained on the nose, with violets and incense wood on the nose. Silky smooth mouthfeel, then that kick from the brandy fortification; mulberries, cherries, plums and dark licorice on the end

A small and crowded cellar with some interesting connections

A treat, a taste of the Axe Hill Cape Vintage 2020; all in bottle, but only to be released in five years’ time. Tobacco box wood; restrained Christmas pudding fruit on the nose. Quite different on the palate; sweet berry fruit, elegance, chalky tannins and long deep flavours. He still has the 2019 Cape Vintage in the barrel. It has a very complex nose and reminded us of good Portuguese port. It’s a Kitshoff! Rugby fans will know what that means.... for others, red-headed Stephen Kitshoff is a very powerful Springbok forward

Mike has lots of stock in reserve as well and seems happy to wait for some of the barrel stock until he thinks it is ready for the market. He gave us such a great tasting and a lot of his time, for which we are very grateful

Tasting all these impressive ports has made us vow to drink it more. So, fewer desserts after dinner parties; we intend to serve great cheeses and some port to encourage our friends to drink these excellent ports which we produce in South Africa

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