Thursday, October 10, 2019

MENU's UK Adventure 4. From Edinburgh to Rothes in Speyside

The next part of our journey was to go North, through the Cairngorm National Park to Rothes in Speyside,
a small town in the centre of the Speyside whisky area, where we were to stay in an old Inn for four nights

First we had to collect our hire car, a Vauxhall (Opel) Crossland X, from near Waverley station in Edinburgh
We made sure this one had SatNav

We packed the car and said a fond farewell to Edinburgh, planning to come back some day soon; it's a lovely city

The road north is very, very beautiful. You travel though small villages and lots of forests

We stopped for a short break next to this old hotel to eat our sandwiches

It is on a very pretty river, calm below the bridge

Above, it was quite turbulent as it rushed over a weir

Herb Robert, a plant found all over the British Isles, especially in late summer

The SatNav, irritatingly, kept trying to take us the long way round. We wanted to drive through the Cairngorm National Park. We had to ignore the GPS which made us detour for quite a long way. But it was so worth it. High hills and mountains covered in purple heather. In the winter, this is where you can come and ski in Britain; there is a lot of snow. The posts alongside the road show the position of the road when the hills are covered in deep snow and the snow ploughs have to come out to clear the road

Our amateur botanist looking at what is growing alongside the road

and, in the grass, a rain kissed blue Harebell

The road continues through Braemar where the famous Highland games are held in September every year
We could not get a photograph of nearby Balmoral Castle, where the Queen lives for part of the year
and during the games, as it is hidden behind trees
This is the smaller Braemar castle. You can visit both
Sadly, we arrived at 5pm, just as they were closing. Onward!

The dark purple patches are the heather on the hill

These ancient narrow stone bridges are quite daunting to cross as they are very steep,
so you cannot see what is on the other side until you reach the top. They are only one lane wide

The Eastbank Hotel, where were we were to stay for four nights

Our room was the two windows on the left of the first floor of the stone building, with good triple glazing

Rothes High Street, where we could park

The courtyard at the back

It was very comfortable with a huge bed. We needed it as we had both come down with a very bad flu and cough
(it appears that it was Covid, long before anyone heard about it!)
and spent one entire day in bed, trying to recover

Space to sit with our laptops

And a comfy sofa which can become a sofa bed if you have children. We booked this on Booking.com
A large bathroom with shower  is through the door on the left

Downstairs in the bar and the restaurant, where we ate breakfast most mornings

Our first experience of a full Scottish breakfast. John started with muesli, orange juice and coffee
and then had the full cooked breakfast

This was on day two when Lynne asked just for just one egg, no black pudding, half a slice of haggis and no baked beans
It is a huge feast and we just couldn't manage it all

Glen Rothes distillery is in the town and was a previous owner of the hotel

The whisky bar in our hotel. They say they have 108 whiskies to try
Sadly, the staff was not very clued up or available, as they were busy chatting to friends in the other bar,
so we only went to taste there once
Which was a great pity and a missed opportunity as this is where you can taste some whiskies without driving anywhere

The owners' dog who was very unhappy with his collar which prevented him licking his wound

Hope Distillery New Label Launch & Trade tasting

Hope Distillery's gin has risen to the top of the range of local gins because they do things properly. Their gins are interesting, worth drinking and not flooded with unnecessary botanicals and they are very good at marketing. They also make gin for many of the other brands you find locally to their own recipes. We were invited to see their new branding and to taste a couple of their new flavours
The new labels. They generously sent us one of these to try
This limited release gin celebrates the Rugby World Cup in Japan
It is made with yuzu (a Japanese citrus) and cherry blossom
Lucy Beard, Hope Distillery's co-founder
The Yuzu gin has hints of umami and the sea, very interesting, very pleasant
The sparkling distillery with its pot still and column stills
Many members of the trade had been invited
Some of the botanicals added to their gins are coriander, citrus peel, juniper, bay, herbs, local fynbos and other spices
The very distinctive new labels
As ex wine retailers we like anything that jumps off the shelf when you look at a range of labels on bottles; these certainly do
Tanya Beuttler and Bridget McClure
The pink bottle is a classic London Dry gin, with hints of citrus, rosemary and juniper, very familiar to many gin lovers and a style that many prefer. The blue bottle is inspired by flavours from the Mediterranean. It is infused with olives, rosemary, thyme, basil and cardamom with citrus notes and hints of juniper. The yellow bottle is Salt River Gin, in the London Dry gin style with distinct South African botanical flavours of buchu and kapokbos (wild rosemary) added and is blended down to bottling strength using Table Mountain spring water collected from the Newlands spring
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

A light lunch at Bovine, Franschhoek

"We have a free day in Franschhoek, so where shall we have lunch?" Then we remembered that a chef we know, Oliver Cattermole, had opened a new restaurant this year, Bovine, on the Main Street. And we had promised his dad Nigel that we would visit. Lunch sitting on a shaded terrace watching the people go by seemed like a great thing to do, and they had the table we wanted
Hard to miss the sign
Chef Ollie is in partnership with Black Elephant Vintners, so you can order their wines ...
... and beer from Woodstock Brewery, which is just what we felt like drinking on a nice warm Spring day
Their Citrus IPA has lower alcohol than their other Orange flavoured IPA and is very refreshing with a definite taste of lemon
The serving staff was smiling, friendly and prompt
The restaurant has a good stream of lunch customers and the menu is simple with something for everyone
The beers went perfectly with the good medium rare beef and cheese burger and some triple cooked chips
and with Lynne's choice of Salt and Pepper Calamari
Yes, we should have ordered only one plate of chips to share, they are very large
Lots of gooey cheese on the burger with the usual onion and tomato and a sesame bun. The beef is very good quality
Chef Ollie came to chat for a short while before getting back to his kitchen
The bill
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

A visit to Le Lude MCC in Franschhoek

Sometimes you make a mistake that turns out to be a success. Lynne got a date wrong and we arrived in Franschhoek in the wrong week. It was a beautiful Spring day. For once we did not have a deadline or an appointment time and we found being able to go where and when we like quite liberating! So not only did she owe John lunch, we decided to go and visit a wine farm we have not been to for rather a long time, La Lude, to taste some of their MCC.
It is one of the most elegant wine farms, both the decor and gardens are impeccable and very much in the French style. Owned by Nick and Freda Barrow. Their daughters are both in the business; Olga is an Interior Decorator and Nicoline is the Executive Chef in the Orangerie restaurant (we hear the food is very good) where you can sit outside on the sunny terrace ...
... or inside in the cool room full of arches and greenery
We went to the tasting room
where you can look through to the small tank cellar, the barrel cellar is below
We had met the winemaker, Emma Bruwer, who has taken over from Paul Gerber,
as we drove through the vineyard and she said that she would join us
You can see how much stock they have by the huge stacking of MCC bottles, seen through a window in the tasting room floor
They grow the Champagne varietals Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier
The first harvest took place in 2012, with the maiden Brut and Rosé released in September 2015
And, in a cabinet, a selection of different glasses used for Champagne
The tasting menu. If you wish, they have paired the bubblies with different canapés or you can have a cheese platter
We had a lovely chat with Emma about her travels, stages in the USA and New Zealand and experiences before she took over the reins from Paul; she had been his assistant first. We tasted the non vintage Le Lude Brut which is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. Bready on the nose with some perfume and a hint of pear; on the palate a lovely crisp prickle on this rich and complex MCC, which has a hint of age which we love, with flavours of pear and zingy lemon. The Rosé MCC was very special indeed (and vies with our favourite local Rosé MCC for 1st place). 60% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier. It has a lovely soft perfume of roses and raspberries, perfection on the palate with soft rose, raspberries, and blueberries and a small hint of salt on the end. Seductive and delicious
Before we left, we had a short tour of the cellar below
A stunning wall of several vintages of bubbles to come!
With some magnums of older vintages
It seems they may soon have to expand. It was a great visit
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus