Friday, November 12, 2021

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 7. Prince Albert

Prince Albert is at the bottom of the phenomenal Swartberg Pass, built in the Victorian era – and the town is named for Victoria's husband. We checked into our very smart self-catering apartment at Koppie Cottage and discovered that we could sit outside at the back and so we braaied for the first time. Even the front entrance had some seating

We have to say we were SO impressed with Koppie Cottage, it is one of the very best self catering places we have ever stayed at anywhere, including overseas. Our landlady has such a good sense of style, it is very comfortable and spacious and she had not forgotten to supply everything we could want while overnighting. And the price was very reasonable

The bed and linen were great, we could sit and relax on the sofa,
or in the outside area at the back, where we found the braai. And we were not disturbed at all

The small, functional kitchen and a table large enough for laptops and work

Lovely antique furniture mixed with modern, and much appreciated, mosquito nets
Yes we do have mosquitoes in here in the summer, but no malaria this far South

A small but perfectly arranged bathroom

The spacious outside area; we had brought our own wood and good boerewors from Calitzdorp

We did go and investigate the local restaurants and shops for a while

but decided that, after the long day's travelling, we preferred a night in, relaxing

The town of Prince Albert is charming, neat and clean
and so many of the buildings have been preserved and restored to an excellent standard

Friends had recommended this restaurant as being very good, and said that the Chef had been charming!

His menu is tempting, especially the Karoo lamb, which is fed on the scrub bush in the Karoo which adds to the flavour

How do people get their geraniums to look so good and abundant?
In our neck of the woods they are lanky with few flowers, perhaps they don't like sea air

An easy braai of boerewors and two salads and some very good wine, then an early night with our books

Out of our great accommodation in Prince Albert by 9.30 am and we had a little more time to explore this lovely town

A quiet residential street

The gap in the hills behind is where the road leads to the Swartberg Pass

It was Monday morning, when things are open. We visited two antique shops, one deli and took lots of photographs,
then visited Gay's Cheese shop before we left for Graaff-Reinet, which is 3½ hours away

This is the historic church

A Nash and a bike - A derelict late 1940s Nash car outside an antique shop with a man passing by on a bicycle

and, tucked under the pepper tree, there is an old cart

Now, that wheel is hand-made craftsmanship

A "barn treasure" ripe for restoration

John loves old cars, so we had to go in and ask about it
It's a 1946/7 Nash Ambassador Streamline. A prestige vehicle when new
It needs an upholsterer and a paint job. We're not informed about the state of the engine

Oh hell, exactly the wingback armchair we have been looking for,
in such good condition, but not an inch of space in the car to transport it back home


and a Kerkorrel - a small church organ from the Edwardian era. And lots of great antiques and bygones

Wow, an impressive preservation of the totally correct old Art Deco cinema. The venue can be used as a theatre, cinema, gallery, seminar venue and, in the future, a film school. The list of possibilities for this establishment is endless. “The Showroom” boasts state-of-the-art theatre and cinema equipment, making it suitable to facilitate and attract some of the countries top performers

We like that they have preserved these four old tree stumps and made them individually different

Some of the buildings are even older

and these have been preserved as well

A feature of the town is the famous Swartberg Hotel; a bit pricy for our budget, but it did look lovely

We went exploring to see the shop and the restaurant

It was Monday and the sign for the famous Sunday lunch was still on show
Had we arrived in Prince Albert in time, we would have gone for this; amazing value

Dinner in the Victoria Room does sound tempting too; well, next time

The day's specials

Dappled shade under the Latte roofs (long poles of similar width, often pine, reeds or bamboo)

Some other well preserved houses in Prince Albert

and in the back streets too

This was once a hotel

We explored a couple of other antique shops. prices are high but the quality is good. "When it was once your job, you can't resist a look", says Lynne, who worked for Phillips Auctioneers and an antique gallery for several years in London

Lovely things,

and great signs

We had seen the sign for the dairy, so headed there and at the entrance found this old cart. John's grandparents, with his mother as a baby, travelled from Nieu Bethesda to Graaff-Reinet in one of these, when the roads were more primitive

Gay's Guernsey Dairy is a feature of the town

They make several different cheeses and here are some drying on a rack

The prices are not bad and you can have a tasting before you buy

So we did. You get a very generous tasting of most of the cheeses from marvellous Clive. We bought four cheeses including two hard cheeses, their feta and mozzarella and could have bought more if we had not been constrained by space in our cold boxes

The shop also has great things to buy, like fresh eggs and preserves

and, hanging from the ceiling, there are drying hams and sausages

Time to head off for the drive to Graaff-Reinet

This is Prince Albert's main road. We headed down it thinking we were going the right way, NO! we found out when we saw the road signs further out of town it was the wrong road, so we had to come back into town. This goes to Oudtshoorn and the coast, an easier route to get to Prince Albert if you don't want to take the Swartberg Pass. They were in the middle of a two hour power cut (yes they have them too in the Karoo, probably more than we have in Cape Town) so we had no Wi-Fi facility to dial up Drive or Google maps on our phones. The petrol station attendant put us on the right track and using our rather old map book (who said we wouldn’t need them again?) we headed out of town towards our destination, Graaff-Reinet. We would like to come back to Prince Albert one day; it’s a great place

Click here to see our drive through the Karoo to Graaff-Reinet


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Thursday, November 04, 2021

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 6. From Calitzdorp to the Swartberg Pass

Onward up and over the Swartberg Pass to Prince Albert

Leaving the Baylys’ farm at Groenfontein, we continued up the unpaved road crossing dry river beds which become torrents when it rains almost every winter, and into verdant valleys growing flowering onions. We passed the privately owned Swartberg Game Reserve and spotted some very unusual antelopes, Red Lechwe (Kobus leche), normally found in northern Botswana and not usually seen south of the Okavango

Lots of brightly coloured vygies (mesembryanthemums) along the road

The Swartberg (black mountains) are magnificent and Lynne had no idea that we were to go right over them at this point

You can see the waterfalls in the kloofs and the verdant pastures below, and a road going up ....

There are great views of the long range of the Swartberg (Black mountains) and they do look black

Then the road began climbing and, at a cross road, we discovered a charmingly (sic) named restaurant
called Kobus se Gat (tr. Kobus' Hole), which friends had told us about. We were hungry, so stopped for some lunch

It is also a convention/wedding venue

The man himself, Kobus, who is a great friendly bear of a man
He was extremely helpful, giving us directions and good travel information about the trip

We sat on the sunny terrace and waited for our food to arrive

A play area for children and more magnificent views. The air was like champagne

A cheeky sparrow who had just had a bath in some water, waiting for crumbs

Now dried off

It has a short menu: full Breakfasts, and various filled Roosterkoek braai bread (yeasty bread toasted on an open fire) and hamburgers, we ordered two and a couple of beers. They came full loaded with all the necessary accompaniments, and crispy chips and are covered in a creamy mushroom sauce (no sauce for John). It was one of the best hamburgers we have had in a long time, good beef, well seasoned, great flavour

"Perhaps," Lynne thought, "as we have already climbed so high,
we just go around those mountains and through the pass behind this one?" HA!

Succulents grow very well up here

Then it was time to venture up the Swartberg pass. Built by Thomas Bain in 1880s, it’s a major feat of road engineering
A rather narrow dirt road (just enough space for 2 cars to pass)

Leucadendrons - "Leucadendron is a genus of about 80 species of flowering plants in the family Proteaceae,
endemic to South Africa, where they are a prominent part of the fynbos ecoregion and vegetation type" (Wikipedia)

Many kissed by mountain fires, they need fire to drop their seeds and regrow

"Are we nearly there?" she said, when she spotted where we'd had lunch below
The other road via Oudtshoorn to the coast

Farmland below, lots of fields of onions

and the road went on and upward and the views became spectacular

Higher and higher we went. Not yet at the top!  We kept stopping to take photos and admire the views

And here you can see the huge uplift of the mountains

Geology eroded by water slowly over the centuries

A wild African daisy

You could see almost up into the whole of Africa (OK, poetic licence, but we were very high)

The trip played havoc with Lynne's vertigo and had her shaking with fear if her eye caught the drop while we were moving
She was praying that we wouldn’t meet another car on a narrow bend, which luckily we didn’t
The passenger side of the car was mostly on the side of the drop

How high can you go?  This far?

And onward went the road, up and up, winding up to the top of the mountain till we stopped to examine this sign

This was the last car before we reached the summit for which we were very thankful
There was not much traffic that day

It was good when we stopped to take photos, especially right at the top, when we could really see the spectacular views
but she was not brave enough to look while travelling.  And the proper summit was even higher up

Up and over! Heading down at last

The gorge, where the road travels down towards Prince Albert, which is at the bottom

On the other side, going down, we saw signs of fantastic ancient tectonic movement in the mountains and gorges,
huge uplifts and fractures

Ancient fractures

Now we know we are in the Karoo, lots of tall aloes 

and next to the small river, some Arums

This towering rock formation was breathtaking

and the river picks up speed alongside the road

Gaia in all her glory reminding us how insignificant we are

Nearly at the bottom, where we found people frolicking in the river

and so, on to Prince Albert (click here)  

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Wednesday, November 03, 2021

In MENU This Week – Lanzerac Pinotage turns 60, Glen Carlou Lunch, Karoo Odyssey Part One, Calitzdorp



Three thousand Kilometres driven, 1500 exposures in cameras and two weeks of escape from the locked down world we have inhabited since early 2020. The Lanzerac celebration was the day before we left, so publishing the story had to wait until after our return. Our last road trip was a circumnavigation of the UK in 2019 and a trip in our own country was overdue. John’s mother and grandmother came from the Camdeboo region of the Karoo and Lynne had never been there, so it became a round trip through the Karoo, down to Addo National Park, along the Garden Route and then to Robertson before coming home. This week’s stories cover our time in Calitzdorp. We enjoyed it very much; we hope that you will too. Please click on the headlines and photographs below to see what we did

Celebrating the 60th Anniversary of Lanzerac Pinotage

What a way to break a long fast. We were among the 50 individuals who were sent an invitation to be part of the story of South African Pinotage and to celebrate its 60th anniversary. We have been in a very long drought as far as stories to cover are concerned and this was a very good way to get back into the flow. Covid has changed things so much in the industry. The invitation read: "Let’s celebrate the 60th Anniversary of a courageous beginning. A collaboration between two historic estates, which led to the establishment of an enduring South African icon. Lanzerac and Bellevue Estates are celebrating and want you to join us."  Read on…

Lunch and tasting at Glen Carlou

Invitations to visit wine farms have rightly been few and far between because of Covid, but we do hope things will improve, now that many people have been vaccinated and farms have learned to put the necessary protocols in place to protect their staff and visitors. We were very happy to accept an invitation to visit Glen Carlou wine estate to taste their wines and enjoy a lovely lunch on the terrace last Sunday. The farm is situated in Klapmuts, on the Simondium Road, and has superb views over the valley to Agter Paarl. The winemaker is Johnny Canitz and the chef is Johan Stander. Read on…

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 1. Calitzdorp - De Krans and 365 on St Helena

Oh what a joy to be on the road again. We left home at 9h15 and headed off to Calitzdorp via the N1 and Route 62. Traffic in town and all the way to the R300 was hectic; so many trucks and so many fools. Then things thinned out and by the time we got to the du Toit's Kloof tunnel, it was just as we like it. The sun was out as we came through at the other end into one of the most spectacular valleys in Africa. Huge mountains either side; magnificent stone buttresses of such strength and age. Read on…

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 2. Calitzdorp - Axe Hill


Day 2 of the trip. The bird life here has been very varied. There is a pepper tree outside our cottage and two beautiful male Olive Thrushes visited us this morning, a pair of small doves was contemplating a nest, John photographed a barn swallow and we have seen lots of swifts in the late afternoon, scooping insects in the warm thermals. Today was all about wine and port in Calitzdorp. Knowing this, we had a very good breakfast. Mike Neebe at Axe Hill, whom we have known since we sold his first port in our shop Main Ingredient, had invited us to visit and taste with him. Read on…

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 3. Calitzdorp - Lunch at Bakhuis

We finally left Axe Hill at a quarter to two and headed for Die Bakhuis, a restaurant down Wesoewer Road, off the R62, in which Mike Neebe has an interest. We really needed food fast to fill the void and they make good Pizzas, Hamburgers and Trinchado. We ate on their small terrace, watching so many birds flitting about the trees and splashing in some escaped leiwater below; definitely stop there if you are a twitcher. Then we ventured into town to find an ATM as our next accommodation only takes cash. Read on…

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 4. Calitzdorp - Boplaas


Our next appointment was at Boplaas. Margaux Nel, who was away at the seaside with her family that weekend, had arranged a special tasting for us with the Tasting room manager, Annerie. She asked what we wanted to taste and we said, "Just bring us what you think we would like to taste". And she did. Another essential to visit when you visit Calitzdorp. They have a good wine selection, very good ports and brandy, gin and whisky. There are vintage wines that you can taste (not often available at wineries, so rather special) and Muscadels. It was another super tasting. They spoil you in Calitzdorp. Read on…

MENU visits the Karoo and the Garden Route 5. Calitzdorp - Peter Bayly Wines

Day 3 of the Trip. Time is going rather fast! It was a lovely clear warm day when we left our accommodation. It was going to be a day of exciting (!) travel. We had so enjoyed our time in hospitable Calitzdorp. Before we left town, we bought the Sunday Times and filled up with petrol. Then it was off into the kloofs to visit Peter and Yvonne Bayly to taste their wines and ports. Read on…

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